the vitals:
-IRO Angus frameset
-Nitto B-123 drops (I keep going back and forth with these and my risers)
-Formula hubs laced to Mavic Open Pro (36 4-cross) soon to be replaced with Suzue Promax SB laced to Mavic Open Pro (most likely 36 4-cross again)
-Sugino Zen crankset, 47x16 gearing, 1/8" drivetrain
the Suzue/Mavic wheelset is going to be the last thing I spend money on this season, next year I'm going for a custom fork from Jacob and possibly a nice Brooks saddle, either the swallow or the swift.
forgot to mention a couple things:
- top-tube protector is by reLoad. its the jam.
- future plans for the bike also include getting a Sugino 75 crankset
garpike: yeah, urban living and I get along very well. the past 6 months in Boston have been fantastic!
ACFA: its my understanding that a straight-blade is an aesthetic for a road/track fork that has a small rake. the smaller the rake the tighter the geometry, but the closer the center of the wheel gets to the centerline of the head tube the more feedback you get in the handlebars from the road.
i just got myself (well, just...about 160 km ago) a 2005 pinarello angliru. man, it's fast, but even more than that, it's stiff.
now i need to get me an everyday ride...
just picked up my frame (and a buddy's) from the powder coater yesterday.
holy cannoli. hot stuff, that's what i say.
one problem though...lazy union workers (presumably) got some of the coating in the bottom bracket threading. not too much, but enough so that my bb doesn't seat correctly and i'm reluctant to force it yet.
i'm thinking a tiny awl, a magnifying glass, 2 trumer pils and one bong hit oughta' help me out. maybe a wire brush too...
anyone run into this before have any thoughts?
once that's squared away - the re-build begins with no sugino crankset, a fat brooks black leather saddle and new pedals/cages.
i'll sell my replaced parts to the aforementioned buddy who's building his first fix. not a bad deal if you ask me...
now about those pils...hmm, maybe i'll leave work early.
I need to whip up a nice touring bike for a trans America ride. I need to ride across the country before I get tied down with serious jobs, marriage, kids, etc.
Oh yeah. Good idea to post that. I definitely can't afford any rivendells or surly's at this moment. Just need a bike for the ride. Also my girlfriend needs one for under $1000.
And Moots? Not in this lifetime. Ha.
I was looking at Trek and Fuji. Not much else out there anymore. Not like in the 80's and 90's.
Yeah, I've definately thought about doing that, since I'd prefer a lugged frame (Nervex lugs are sexy and even better if you do some filing) over a straight-up welded frame. I wonder if I could somehow get my job to pay for me to do that though...
woo! my IRO wheelset just arrived at the office. i had to pretend it was a giant sample of something... now i just want to go finish my conversion... spent last night painting it. clear coat goes on the frame tonight.
holy crap! the track was awesome! I was kind of a fish out of water because pack riding makes me nervous and I was geared kinda low at 47x15, but still had a blast and can't wait for next year's season. taking those corners at full throttle in the drops was amazing.
and I take back anything bad I've ever said about wearing lycra. there is a time and place for it, but it definately has its purpose.
i'm off frame hunting today, and also need some clipless shoes...
little intermission...one of the things i love about having moved back to italy is how much craftmanship is still here, even if it's fading like anywhere else.
every shop i went to to look for a racer offered me names of several workshops in the area who could build me a frame, and now i'm finding out there is even a couple of local cycling shoes makers. it never happened in london, even if my town is about 5% of the size. underdevelopment ain't a bad thing.
anyway, as i was saying i'm off to find a steel frame with horizontal dropouts, ride to the office is about 20 minutes, hopefully i'll be able to do it on a fixed before autumn.
bigness- how much is the going rate for an italian handmade lugged steel frame (USD)?
pixel- sounds like a blast. no crashes?
i finally assembled my fixie conversion last night. i don't really have the right tool to tighten the lockring all the way so it slipped a bit on the maiden voyage. but i zoomed around the neighborhood at 1 am with my chainline that 's very not straight (that'll get taken care of this weekend). so much fun. first fixie ride and i love it. the best analogy i can give is that it's like driving a stick shift car. you feel like you have a better sense and control of what's going on. was cruising down the street and started back pedalling.... whoahhhhh. weird. but i'm getting used to it. in the meantime, a brake is definitely gettin' put on tonight.
other thoughts... my stock nittos from the original frame seem a bit small to me all of a sudden. thinking about wider bullhorns now...
no crashes, I was kinda meek in that I didin't go charging into the pack and rather decided to just feell things out. plus I was in the C class as a first timer. gonna try to shift my schedule around next week so that I can go one more time for the last day.
garpike: I sent you an email via archinect earlier today that you'll find interesting regarding framebuilding. if your email has changed lemme know and I'll resend.
ACFA - it take some time for sure to get used to the feeling of resisting significant forward motion in the pedals.
you'll get the hang of it, then forget for one moment while cornering and get nearly, if not entirely, thrown off the bike. you'll learn quickly to remember that your feet never stop moving...
i've been riding my wifes 7spd cruiser the past two weeks while my fix is getting powder coated and rebuilt...and it's wierd to coast. it had been over a year since i'd been on a geared bike.
i can skid like a champ, but the whole 'no-brake' thing doesn't work for me. i ride too many big hills here in the east bay area, and not having at least a front brake becomes limiting in my range, especially if i'm riding with roadies.
just before i stripped my ride, i did a great 20mi golden gate bridge to tiburon and back to san fran on the ferry with a couple of friends. i was the only fixed on the whole ride. must have seen over a thousand riders though...not a ride i would have done without the brake.
ACFA: i think you could get a big builder (viner, rossin, cinzia, de rosa) making you a frame with columbus tubing for around 350/400 euros...i'm totally guessing here. i had handmade, made to mesure complete bikes offered for around 750 euros, so if you take out the usual 350 of a campagnolo gears and brakes set...
anyway, check those brands out, they should all have websites.
my situation:
rear cog (IRO 17t, not that it's important) on my IRO wheel in the rear, 130mm spacing on a conversion. half of that is 65. subtract the 21mm spacing and the rear cog's chainline is set for 44mm give or take a fraction.
front crank. BB is stock from the fuji i converted, 68mm english 110 spindle. bulletproof crank to a rocket 46t chainring giving me an estimated chainline of a whopping 52mm. unacceptable.
tried getting spacers but seems sorta rediculous to have an 8mm spacer... besides i couldn't find the appropriate chainring bolts.
what to do?? my best idea so far has been to get a 103mm BB and that way i lose at least 7 or the 8 mm. then use a 1mm spacer? does a 103mm spindle lose all the length from the drive side of the spindle or is it split between both sides?
You sure on the hub spacing? keep in mind that the hub for a 120 dropout spacing should be the same as for the 130 because the spacers are outboard of the cog/hub assembly.
Sheldon list the IRO hub with a spacing from CL to shoulder of 36mm, plus approximately 6.4mm for a 3/32 cog and that gives you 42.4 mm, give or take for the specific cog.
Bulletproof info from Sheldon Brown/Harris Cyclery (as I'm not familiar with its numbers off hand):
Chainline w/107 mm bottom bracket:
* 43.4 mm as double (middle of spider)
* 47.1 mm outer ring
* 39.7 mm inner ring
per that if you're rocking the outer ring w/ a 110 that should be giving you 42.7, which should be bringing you pretty much spot on to where you need to be.
i'm pretty sure something is funky with the chainring alignment. the rear cog seems to be at least in the vicinity of the calculated 42.4mm (my measurements weren't super precise for the rear).
the front is CLEARLY over 50mm though. no doubt about it. i've got the chainring on the inside of the bulletproof crank so it's really sorta crazy. could i not be screwing in the nut that pushes the crank on the square enough? hm... gonna have to do more measuring and research tonight before i go buying a bunch of new parts....
Without being able to see anything, I can only think of 2 things:
1. Like you said, the crank arm isn't fully seated on the taper. buy/borrow a torque wrench if possible to make sure that its on there properly. I think Park Tools lists recommended torque values somewhere in the repair help section of their website.
2. Perhaps your BB isn't evenly spaced (as you were wondering about a 103). Best way to figure out for sure is to get a set of calipers and measure it up. For some reason I think some BB can be respaced, others not at all. Honestly I have no clue on any specifics as I've never had to do it.
If you can't figure it out on your own take it into your local bike shop that rents out stand time and see if a wrench there will give you a hand.
evenly spaced? is it supposed to be equal lengths on either side? cause mine is clearly longer on the drive side (which i thought was normal...) are track BB's evenly spaced?
New bottom bracket time! Shimano makes a nice BB that has sealed bearings, much easier/less maintenance. Not sure on the model number off hand, I'll try to find it in my downtime today.
Fixed century? Good luck, invest in lycra and the ass butter and your taint will be fine. Otherwise you're in for a world of pain and a week of walking funny!
oh yeah, I'm pretty sure the shimano part is UN53. sealed BB for a 68 shell thats nice and inexpensive.
the chainline in the rear is 42mm... so i figure i do inside position (@39.7mm for a 107 BB) and get a 110 BB... i figure you might add around 2 mm to the drive side to get at least really close to 42mm...
Just got my frame back from the LBS who rechased the threads in the BB.
Re-built the whole thing in about an hour and a half. I'm pretty pleased that even though i neglected to replace any of the bearings themselves, all cleaned up and regreased and she's running pretty smooth. will post a pic of the new build when i can.
still a little creaking in the BB, but i'm starting to think that it's actually the crankset now thats creaky.
on the advice of one of the shop guys, i removed one bearing from each set...when you've got a BB or a headset on the end of its life, you can remove one bearing each and get a bit of a second wind. except the bearings on the bottom side of the headset...i left those in the retainer.
anyone else have this experience? good, bad or indifferent.
bad news is i think the powder coater used the wrong color.
i said ral7024, not 7015! oh well, still sexy and gun-metal grey, just without the hint of purple.
mightylittle:
If its the crankset thats creaky make sure its on the spindle nice and tight. Also, loose chainring bolts will make a helluva noise. Make sure you're using the tool that fits into the slots on the bolt to get it nice and tight. Worth purchasing if you don't have one.
As far as the BB/headset trick, never heard it. I'm all for splurging and getting new bearings and some Phil Wood grease to rebuild 'em.
ACFA:
Inside the spider with a 110 would be giving you 42.7, don't bother going outboard with the chainring. With that chainline and a well-lubed chain you'll be able to sneak up on squirrels...
Does anyone have any experience with the Selle Italia Flite GelFlow saddle? I just got a new bike, but the original saddle feels like shit-very uncomfortable. I want to keep the racing style, and this model comes in various colors, but I haven't tried one out yet so don't know how it feels. I plan on hitting my LBS, but am quite curious, so until then any feedback and reviews are welcome. Anyone? Is it good for longer rides too?
first couple of pics are of my bike, well....it gets me around - thats about it.
the last image is of a friend's bike. he got it just after it was dragged up from the bottom of a canal, complete with encrusted shells on it, now just rusty!
bicycles
oops... linkified
first fixie
Heres my newest ride, a bit over a month old now:
the vitals:
-IRO Angus frameset
-Nitto B-123 drops (I keep going back and forth with these and my risers)
-Formula hubs laced to Mavic Open Pro (36 4-cross) soon to be replaced with Suzue Promax SB laced to Mavic Open Pro (most likely 36 4-cross again)
-Sugino Zen crankset, 47x16 gearing, 1/8" drivetrain
the Suzue/Mavic wheelset is going to be the last thing I spend money on this season, next year I'm going for a custom fork from Jacob and possibly a nice Brooks saddle, either the swallow or the swift.
Anyone enter the International Bicycle Design Competition (IBDC) this year? I uploaded my design Sunday, almost too late.
Nice, pixel. Glad to be back in (near) Boston?
what's the idea behind having a fork that's perfectly straight? stiffer?
I never posted my ride. Something to do with broken bones and drinking...
Any Midnight Ridazz from LA here?
forgot to mention a couple things:
- top-tube protector is by reLoad. its the jam.
- future plans for the bike also include getting a Sugino 75 crankset
garpike: yeah, urban living and I get along very well. the past 6 months in Boston have been fantastic!
ACFA: its my understanding that a straight-blade is an aesthetic for a road/track fork that has a small rake. the smaller the rake the tighter the geometry, but the closer the center of the wheel gets to the centerline of the head tube the more feedback you get in the handlebars from the road.
i just got myself (well, just...about 160 km ago) a 2005 pinarello angliru. man, it's fast, but even more than that, it's stiff.
now i need to get me an everyday ride...
bigness: hot. a road bike is on my list for next year. then the burning questions will be "where do I store all these bikes?".
just picked up my frame (and a buddy's) from the powder coater yesterday.
holy cannoli. hot stuff, that's what i say.
one problem though...lazy union workers (presumably) got some of the coating in the bottom bracket threading. not too much, but enough so that my bb doesn't seat correctly and i'm reluctant to force it yet.
i'm thinking a tiny awl, a magnifying glass, 2 trumer pils and one bong hit oughta' help me out. maybe a wire brush too...
anyone run into this before have any thoughts?
once that's squared away - the re-build begins with no sugino crankset, a fat brooks black leather saddle and new pedals/cages.
i'll sell my replaced parts to the aforementioned buddy who's building his first fix. not a bad deal if you ask me...
now about those pils...hmm, maybe i'll leave work early.
err, ahh, that would be 'new' sugino crankset.
I need to whip up a nice touring bike for a trans America ride. I need to ride across the country before I get tied down with serious jobs, marriage, kids, etc.
Any suggestions?
What's your budget?
http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/
http://www.surlybikes.com/
http://www.moots.com
Oh yeah. Good idea to post that. I definitely can't afford any rivendells or surly's at this moment. Just need a bike for the ride. Also my girlfriend needs one for under $1000.
And Moots? Not in this lifetime. Ha.
I was looking at Trek and Fuji. Not much else out there anymore. Not like in the 80's and 90's.
I would love a Moots... or an IF... or a Seven... or a Vanilla... or an Ant... or a Circle A...
oh the things I would do for a nice custom frame.
Would you go build your own? My last roommate and I considered this as a graduation gift to ourselves, but then the real world kicked in.
Frame building course
Yeah, I've definately thought about doing that, since I'd prefer a lugged frame (Nervex lugs are sexy and even better if you do some filing) over a straight-up welded frame. I wonder if I could somehow get my job to pay for me to do that though...
What about a lugged frame from those Filipino brothers at http://www.sycip.com
going to the track in Londonderry, NH tomorrow. I'll report back with stories of my failure and road rash. But first I need to buy a helmet and lycra!
Ha! Good luck, Pixel.
Pixel pimp, i'll rub lotion on your skin... tee hee
woo! my IRO wheelset just arrived at the office. i had to pretend it was a giant sample of something... now i just want to go finish my conversion... spent last night painting it. clear coat goes on the frame tonight.
holy crap! the track was awesome! I was kind of a fish out of water because pack riding makes me nervous and I was geared kinda low at 47x15, but still had a blast and can't wait for next year's season. taking those corners at full throttle in the drops was amazing.
and I take back anything bad I've ever said about wearing lycra. there is a time and place for it, but it definately has its purpose.
i'm off frame hunting today, and also need some clipless shoes...
little intermission...one of the things i love about having moved back to italy is how much craftmanship is still here, even if it's fading like anywhere else.
every shop i went to to look for a racer offered me names of several workshops in the area who could build me a frame, and now i'm finding out there is even a couple of local cycling shoes makers. it never happened in london, even if my town is about 5% of the size. underdevelopment ain't a bad thing.
anyway, as i was saying i'm off to find a steel frame with horizontal dropouts, ride to the office is about 20 minutes, hopefully i'll be able to do it on a fixed before autumn.
bigness- how much is the going rate for an italian handmade lugged steel frame (USD)?
pixel- sounds like a blast. no crashes?
i finally assembled my fixie conversion last night. i don't really have the right tool to tighten the lockring all the way so it slipped a bit on the maiden voyage. but i zoomed around the neighborhood at 1 am with my chainline that 's very not straight (that'll get taken care of this weekend). so much fun. first fixie ride and i love it. the best analogy i can give is that it's like driving a stick shift car. you feel like you have a better sense and control of what's going on. was cruising down the street and started back pedalling.... whoahhhhh. weird. but i'm getting used to it. in the meantime, a brake is definitely gettin' put on tonight.
other thoughts... my stock nittos from the original frame seem a bit small to me all of a sudden. thinking about wider bullhorns now...
I am jealous, Pixel.
no crashes, I was kinda meek in that I didin't go charging into the pack and rather decided to just feell things out. plus I was in the C class as a first timer. gonna try to shift my schedule around next week so that I can go one more time for the last day.
garpike: I sent you an email via archinect earlier today that you'll find interesting regarding framebuilding. if your email has changed lemme know and I'll resend.
ACFA - it take some time for sure to get used to the feeling of resisting significant forward motion in the pedals.
you'll get the hang of it, then forget for one moment while cornering and get nearly, if not entirely, thrown off the bike. you'll learn quickly to remember that your feet never stop moving...
i've been riding my wifes 7spd cruiser the past two weeks while my fix is getting powder coated and rebuilt...and it's wierd to coast. it had been over a year since i'd been on a geared bike.
i can skid like a champ, but the whole 'no-brake' thing doesn't work for me. i ride too many big hills here in the east bay area, and not having at least a front brake becomes limiting in my range, especially if i'm riding with roadies.
just before i stripped my ride, i did a great 20mi golden gate bridge to tiburon and back to san fran on the ferry with a couple of friends. i was the only fixed on the whole ride. must have seen over a thousand riders though...not a ride i would have done without the brake.
ACFA: i think you could get a big builder (viner, rossin, cinzia, de rosa) making you a frame with columbus tubing for around 350/400 euros...i'm totally guessing here. i had handmade, made to mesure complete bikes offered for around 750 euros, so if you take out the usual 350 of a campagnolo gears and brakes set...
anyway, check those brands out, they should all have websites.
Got it, Pixel. Makes sense to me.
ok you fixie riders...
my situation:
rear cog (IRO 17t, not that it's important) on my IRO wheel in the rear, 130mm spacing on a conversion. half of that is 65. subtract the 21mm spacing and the rear cog's chainline is set for 44mm give or take a fraction.
front crank. BB is stock from the fuji i converted, 68mm english 110 spindle. bulletproof crank to a rocket 46t chainring giving me an estimated chainline of a whopping 52mm. unacceptable.
tried getting spacers but seems sorta rediculous to have an 8mm spacer... besides i couldn't find the appropriate chainring bolts.
what to do?? my best idea so far has been to get a 103mm BB and that way i lose at least 7 or the 8 mm. then use a 1mm spacer? does a 103mm spindle lose all the length from the drive side of the spindle or is it split between both sides?
You sure on the hub spacing? keep in mind that the hub for a 120 dropout spacing should be the same as for the 130 because the spacers are outboard of the cog/hub assembly.
Sheldon list the IRO hub with a spacing from CL to shoulder of 36mm, plus approximately 6.4mm for a 3/32 cog and that gives you 42.4 mm, give or take for the specific cog.
Bulletproof info from Sheldon Brown/Harris Cyclery (as I'm not familiar with its numbers off hand):
Chainline w/107 mm bottom bracket:
* 43.4 mm as double (middle of spider)
* 47.1 mm outer ring
* 39.7 mm inner ring
per that if you're rocking the outer ring w/ a 110 that should be giving you 42.7, which should be bringing you pretty much spot on to where you need to be.
if my math is off I apologize, as I kinda rushed that response, but it seems like you should be fairly close to where you need to be.
i'm pretty sure something is funky with the chainring alignment. the rear cog seems to be at least in the vicinity of the calculated 42.4mm (my measurements weren't super precise for the rear).
the front is CLEARLY over 50mm though. no doubt about it. i've got the chainring on the inside of the bulletproof crank so it's really sorta crazy. could i not be screwing in the nut that pushes the crank on the square enough? hm... gonna have to do more measuring and research tonight before i go buying a bunch of new parts....
thanks for the help pixel. much appreciated.
Without being able to see anything, I can only think of 2 things:
1. Like you said, the crank arm isn't fully seated on the taper. buy/borrow a torque wrench if possible to make sure that its on there properly. I think Park Tools lists recommended torque values somewhere in the repair help section of their website.
2. Perhaps your BB isn't evenly spaced (as you were wondering about a 103). Best way to figure out for sure is to get a set of calipers and measure it up. For some reason I think some BB can be respaced, others not at all. Honestly I have no clue on any specifics as I've never had to do it.
If you can't figure it out on your own take it into your local bike shop that rents out stand time and see if a wrench there will give you a hand.
evenly spaced? is it supposed to be equal lengths on either side? cause mine is clearly longer on the drive side (which i thought was normal...) are track BB's evenly spaced?
"evenly" was the wrong word, I meant "properly".
and the answer is:
i'm a doofus and my BB spindle length is 123mm and NOT 110mm...
guess that explains my current 52mm chainline...
New bottom bracket time! Shimano makes a nice BB that has sealed bearings, much easier/less maintenance. Not sure on the model number off hand, I'll try to find it in my downtime today.
I dunno about you guys. But i'm riding a century with a track bike. My taint will be bleeding afterwards!
Fixed century? Good luck, invest in lycra and the ass butter and your taint will be fine. Otherwise you're in for a world of pain and a week of walking funny!
oh yeah, I'm pretty sure the shimano part is UN53. sealed BB for a 68 shell thats nice and inexpensive.
whaddya think,
the chainline in the rear is 42mm... so i figure i do inside position (@39.7mm for a 107 BB) and get a 110 BB... i figure you might add around 2 mm to the drive side to get at least really close to 42mm...
Just got my frame back from the LBS who rechased the threads in the BB.
Re-built the whole thing in about an hour and a half. I'm pretty pleased that even though i neglected to replace any of the bearings themselves, all cleaned up and regreased and she's running pretty smooth. will post a pic of the new build when i can.
still a little creaking in the BB, but i'm starting to think that it's actually the crankset now thats creaky.
on the advice of one of the shop guys, i removed one bearing from each set...when you've got a BB or a headset on the end of its life, you can remove one bearing each and get a bit of a second wind. except the bearings on the bottom side of the headset...i left those in the retainer.
anyone else have this experience? good, bad or indifferent.
bad news is i think the powder coater used the wrong color.
i said ral7024, not 7015! oh well, still sexy and gun-metal grey, just without the hint of purple.
mightylittle:
If its the crankset thats creaky make sure its on the spindle nice and tight. Also, loose chainring bolts will make a helluva noise. Make sure you're using the tool that fits into the slots on the bolt to get it nice and tight. Worth purchasing if you don't have one.
As far as the BB/headset trick, never heard it. I'm all for splurging and getting new bearings and some Phil Wood grease to rebuild 'em.
ACFA:
Inside the spider with a 110 would be giving you 42.7, don't bother going outboard with the chainring. With that chainline and a well-lubed chain you'll be able to sneak up on squirrels...
new bearings are just lovely. they just spin and spin and spin and spin.
squirrels... i'll have to try to catch me one.
i started ordering the parts... then realized i forgot my wallet at home today... parts will be ordered tonight.
Does anyone have any experience with the Selle Italia Flite GelFlow saddle? I just got a new bike, but the original saddle feels like shit-very uncomfortable. I want to keep the racing style, and this model comes in various colors, but I haven't tried one out yet so don't know how it feels. I plan on hitting my LBS, but am quite curious, so until then any feedback and reviews are welcome. Anyone? Is it good for longer rides too?
first couple of pics are of my bike, well....it gets me around - thats about it.
the last image is of a friend's bike. he got it just after it was dragged up from the bottom of a canal, complete with encrusted shells on it, now just rusty!
and one more crappy bike from amsterdam
anyone have experience with older nishiki road bikes? i've seen a few for sale here and there at reasonable prices. are they any good?
just this morning i picked up a mid 80's peugeot road frame that i'm going to attempt to convert to a fixie
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