Rationalist:
Nice! On the clips, I'm going to guess that they're the same. As far as I can tell all the half cages really do is keep your foot in the proper position (ball of foot over pedal spindle) and give you a slight amount of upstroke transfer. Standard cages w/o straps would be doing the same thing since the strap won't be there to transfer the power of the upstroke.
squirrelly:
Sounds like you're all set for racing, I probably don't have half the miles you have on my legs this season due to my work schedule and the fact that I don't like riding in the rain. But if I was in LA I would spend all my time at the ADT. My buddy went out there for the nationals last year and says the place is amazing. I'm hoping to get down to LeHigh Valley in PA a couple times to do the rookie races on Saturday mornings and see what its like to ride on a real track.
Thanks. I'm trying the regular clips with the strap removed for now, but they're still not as easy to get into as I would like... causes problems when I start on an incline so I can't coast while my foot finds the clip! I'm hoping this will get better with practice, but if it doesn't then I guess I'll re-evaluate my pedaling options. Oddly enough though, the current setup doesn't feel discernibly different from when the strap was in as far as power loss.
PW:
Good looking out. Yeah, it's incredibly nice out here. I was telling rationalist the other day that it seems like the "fixie" fad is picking up steam here in LA, or maybe it already has and I'm just an observer looking in.
I've actually been thinking about doing a nice fixed gear bike, but since they are pricey, I wanna build one. We'll see.
As for the track, I hear there are a few out here and they are pretty cool indeed. I've never been, def. need to take a trip to one of the local ones. I do most of my riding outdoors, road style.
Good luck on the crits and doing your saturday rookie races. It def. sounds like alot of fun, and once you get really into it, I am sure you'll be logging in more miles. If not, well at least there's the trainer for ya. Speaking of which, I need to get me one, for those eves when I can't go riding.
I picked up and old Fuji 12 speed and I've been loving riding into work. I placed an order at Velo Orange to pimp it out with some half cages, new pedals, leather bar covers, and new brake levers. All thats left is the Brooks saddle and a dope pannier.
1. rotofix: keep your rear wheel in the track ends with the chain on your cog. take the chain off the chainring so its going around your bottom bracket shell. now just wrap the chain slack around the cog so you can use your entire wheel as a lever. some people claim that this can throw off your frame alignment but I've been doing it on my good track frame and haven't run into any problems.
2. cheater bar: get a long section of gas pipe thats big enough that the handle of your chain whip fits inside, thus increasing your lever arm length.
3. wrap a spare section of chain around your cog, clamp onto cog-wrapped chain with a large pipe wrench and wrench it out that way. I haven't done this before but a local mechanic swears by it.
1973 Nishiki Professional
-Sugino Mighty comp cranks
-cheap wide range Suntour 6 speed cassette (originally 10 speed half step gearing)
-spare Tiagra rear (was lying around and my Suntours can't hack the 6 speeds on the 120mm spacing - maybe I'll bend to ~126)
-no front derailleur
-Brooks B17, old Dia Compe centerpulls
-Suntour bar end shifter
-Nitto Olympiade bars (the original was too narrow)
-new Nitto Technomic stem (look how tall I can go)
-MKS touring pedals (need clips and straps...)
it is the pressure between the 2 front cogs that causes it
one is a 61 tooth and the other a 34 tooth. and the freewheel sits between them and when you rotate the crack backwards the chain does not. White Industries is the only company that i know making a sealed bearing freewheel, but only rt side
I think my bicycle is getting put away for the winter. It's so flippin cold out there that it forces tears from my eyes when I'm going downhill in the morning. So it's time for my bike to hibernate in the garage for a little while.
bicycles
Mine....I got 2
MTB: GT XCR4000, this is before GT went belly up and sold to ...I think was huffy?? Got the last "real" GT MTB made by the company that year.
ROAD: Cannondale CADD8 R1000,, Alumn-Carbon Composite frame, with carbon forks, and some other components, Dura-ace crank, and Ksyrium wheelset.
Pretty good considering I got it on Ebay.
Rationalist:
Nice! On the clips, I'm going to guess that they're the same. As far as I can tell all the half cages really do is keep your foot in the proper position (ball of foot over pedal spindle) and give you a slight amount of upstroke transfer. Standard cages w/o straps would be doing the same thing since the strap won't be there to transfer the power of the upstroke.
squirrelly:
Sounds like you're all set for racing, I probably don't have half the miles you have on my legs this season due to my work schedule and the fact that I don't like riding in the rain. But if I was in LA I would spend all my time at the ADT. My buddy went out there for the nationals last year and says the place is amazing. I'm hoping to get down to LeHigh Valley in PA a couple times to do the rookie races on Saturday mornings and see what its like to ride on a real track.
Thanks. I'm trying the regular clips with the strap removed for now, but they're still not as easy to get into as I would like... causes problems when I start on an incline so I can't coast while my foot finds the clip! I'm hoping this will get better with practice, but if it doesn't then I guess I'll re-evaluate my pedaling options. Oddly enough though, the current setup doesn't feel discernibly different from when the strap was in as far as power loss.
PW:
Good looking out. Yeah, it's incredibly nice out here. I was telling rationalist the other day that it seems like the "fixie" fad is picking up steam here in LA, or maybe it already has and I'm just an observer looking in.
I've actually been thinking about doing a nice fixed gear bike, but since they are pricey, I wanna build one. We'll see.
As for the track, I hear there are a few out here and they are pretty cool indeed. I've never been, def. need to take a trip to one of the local ones. I do most of my riding outdoors, road style.
Good luck on the crits and doing your saturday rookie races. It def. sounds like alot of fun, and once you get really into it, I am sure you'll be logging in more miles. If not, well at least there's the trainer for ya. Speaking of which, I need to get me one, for those eves when I can't go riding.
I picked up and old Fuji 12 speed and I've been loving riding into work. I placed an order at Velo Orange to pimp it out with some half cages, new pedals, leather bar covers, and new brake levers. All thats left is the Brooks saddle and a dope pannier.
I have a Windsor "the hour" fixie and want to put a different rear cog on, but for the life of me I can't get it off!!
I took off the lock ring and sprayed some lube on it and have been riding it without a lock ring for a couple of weeks and still nothing.
Any thoughts?
^
1. rotofix: keep your rear wheel in the track ends with the chain on your cog. take the chain off the chainring so its going around your bottom bracket shell. now just wrap the chain slack around the cog so you can use your entire wheel as a lever. some people claim that this can throw off your frame alignment but I've been doing it on my good track frame and haven't run into any problems.
2. cheater bar: get a long section of gas pipe thats big enough that the handle of your chain whip fits inside, thus increasing your lever arm length.
3. wrap a spare section of chain around your cog, clamp onto cog-wrapped chain with a large pipe wrench and wrench it out that way. I haven't done this before but a local mechanic swears by it.
My latest:
1973 Nishiki Professional
-Sugino Mighty comp cranks
-cheap wide range Suntour 6 speed cassette (originally 10 speed half step gearing)
-spare Tiagra rear (was lying around and my Suntours can't hack the 6 speeds on the 120mm spacing - maybe I'll bend to ~126)
-no front derailleur
-Brooks B17, old Dia Compe centerpulls
-Suntour bar end shifter
-Nitto Olympiade bars (the original was too narrow)
-new Nitto Technomic stem (look how tall I can go)
-MKS touring pedals (need clips and straps...)
I'm a dork.
yesh... but you're a dork with a pretty bike. ;)
Rode my bike to work for the first time at this job today, good times.
Used to ride to work all the time in LA, and I used to bike for fun in Baltimore when I lived here before, but this is the first time commuting here.
Thanks for the tips pixelwhore, I'll try that.
HELP
i am still searching for a left side standard 20" freewheel with sealed bearings.
i keep blowing up the normal(leftside) ones...
Hmm... stop blowing them up. They should last a bit long if you keep the explosives away.
it is the pressure between the 2 front cogs that causes it
one is a 61 tooth and the other a 34 tooth. and the freewheel sits between them and when you rotate the crack backwards the chain does not. White Industries is the only company that i know making a sealed bearing freewheel, but only rt side
that dude looks familiar
when I get up far too early in the morning I look like this:
well, that is me.
thankyou to www.rapha.cc
i decided i want to get or build a single speed for the moderate terrain of MPLS/STP any suggestions?
well, it's not fancy or anything but i've finally joined the archinect bike club:
this you have bicycle skills?
check this out
I think my bicycle is getting put away for the winter. It's so flippin cold out there that it forces tears from my eyes when I'm going downhill in the morning. So it's time for my bike to hibernate in the garage for a little while.
celebrities on bicylces
the guys
and the girls
via treehugger
Glasses, rationalist. And some studded tires, fenders and warm socks.
treehugger
My Italian Stallion
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