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You west coast Surfing Archinecters - Green with Envy?

JohnProlly

the "honey hole" back home in NC - EAT IT UPPPPPP

http://surferphotos.com/sp/Bank9-12-05.html

 
Sep 14, 05 1:38 pm
dragthelake

mmm...its the most wonderful time of the year...

where is home in NC?
im from va beach and surfed rodanthe and pea island a lot back before i went away to school in philly.

Sep 14, 05 2:35 pm  · 
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3ifs

i am patiently waiting for that bitch ophelia to hurry up and bring some of that to jersey... although current forecasts are making me think that long island new york will be firing on friday.

Sep 14, 05 2:50 pm  · 
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JohnProlly

Buoy's reading 9' with 3 sec intervals - i'm heading to the ONLY southfacing island up North.... Offshore winds peaking at 7am Sat.

The pics are at a undisclosed location - but they are on the OBX of NC - just cant tell where.

Sep 14, 05 3:53 pm  · 
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JohnProlly

Well I know, but i cant "tell" anyone

Sep 14, 05 3:53 pm  · 
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Gordon

Not really envious...We are expected to get the south-swell of the year this friday/saturday...The next monster from down under..and it wont be that slop hurricane shit either....

Sep 14, 05 4:05 pm  · 
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JohnProlly

Yeah those 25 mph offshore winds dont do anything do they? I mean holding up a 12' swell and shaping it across the OBX's sandbars wont result in any A frames or Almond-shaped barrells.

Thats why East Coast [esp the Dirty South] KILLS West Coast Year after Year in competitions. Sorry if you pretty boy Malibu surfers dont like to dance with nature during a nasty hurricane "slop" swell.

Blonde tips and pukas are cool!

Sep 14, 05 4:19 pm  · 
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JohnProlly

Image #42 looks pretty boss compared to anything you'll ride on the Wrong Coast.

Sep 14, 05 4:21 pm  · 
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A Center for Ants?

how the hell do you paddle out against a 9' swell with 3 second intervals?

i'll take my weekend of 4-6'@ 15-20 second groundswell anyday over short period hurricane windswell.

Sep 14, 05 4:34 pm  · 
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A Center for Ants?

john-

though i am originally from the east coast. i have to say. the surf is far better and more consistent on the west coast. it's just how it plays out. you get more groundswell over a greater quantity of world-class breaks. any given day i can surf the ranch, rincon, malibu, salt creek, trestles, or blacks. encompassing beach breaks, point breaks, and reef breaks. if you want big wave breaks, you have mavs, ghost trees, lunada bay and the wedge.

i'm not saying the east coast doesn't have quality waves, but you won't get them anywhere as consistently as the west coast does.

Sep 14, 05 4:46 pm  · 
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archoholic

Not really envious either. Heading to Maui tomorrow where both North and South shores are firing, then it's back home to Socal for leftovers. Good luck with your search though.....Aloha.

Sep 14, 05 5:07 pm  · 
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JohnProlly

Where were you from on the East Coast? I mean, obviously there are good waves out west consistantly, but when we get waves out here, THEY ARE GREAT, not 5'6 @ 15sec "groundswell"

Sep 14, 05 5:07 pm  · 
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A Center for Ants?

grew up surfing in florida so i know how the hurricane swells work.

period matters as the size of a wave face is determined by the swell size with the period (after some adjustment) as a multiplier factor. a 3' swell at 20s might break at 10'-15' while a 3' swell at 10 seconds might just be 3-4' on the face. of course this all depends on the bathymetry of the break. hurricanes tend to output shorter period swell which is very directional so some breaks may fire while others fizzle.

you go crazy on the east coast tracking hurricanes as the window of opportunity is so small. whereas this west coast swell for the weekend? i can hit it probably anytime between thursday to monday and find someplace that's firing.

archoholic -
have a nice little vacation and get some good ones. south shore is getting the swell already and supposedly doing really well.

Sep 14, 05 5:58 pm  · 
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3ifs

i do have to say that i would prefer consistent surf to the summer doldrums we see here in the east... particularly this summer was freakin terrible. ankle slappers most weekends makes me crazy.

i do love the fall though. there are plenty of long period nicely sized days and uncrowded lineups. and you can't beat the weather...

Sep 14, 05 8:19 pm  · 
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3dGraffiti

I have to second the west coast. I, too, grew up surfing the east coast storm surf, and definitely had fun, but it is the in between that’s tough… plus Baja kills. 5 hr drive from LA and your looking good.

Wish I could make it down there for the swell that coming this tomorrow….yee haw! (Maybe some photos from ‘Lowers’ should be posted on Monday)

Sep 15, 05 12:12 am  · 
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3dGraffiti

Don't get me wrong, those waves posted look FUN. And if you can't make the paddle, then too bad!

Sep 15, 05 12:28 am  · 
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JohnProlly

Seriously, keeps the kooks outta the water. At least we dont have the CROWDS you guys get out west

Sep 15, 05 12:35 pm  · 
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MysteryMan

Forget surfing. The West Coast kicks axx in skiing & boarding, as well.

Sep 15, 05 1:21 pm  · 
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3ifs

MM, why do you feel it necessary to spell 'ass' as 'axx'? am i missing something?

skiing and boarding are fun... but not nearly as fun as surfing.

Sep 15, 05 1:40 pm  · 
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MysteryMan

I guess it's a fetish: substituting 'x's' for 'cks'. I also remember a band in the '80s called 'Kick Axx' complete w/ a picture of a big 'ol axxxxxxxx.

I wish I had picked up surfing, but the lake I live on has no waves, just mud.

Sep 15, 05 1:49 pm  · 
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MysteryMan

I also substitute 'xx' for 'ss' to be polite, for the chldren...

Sep 15, 05 1:52 pm  · 
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A Center for Ants?

size keeps the kooks out of the water. started to pick up a bit this morning. had a few sets at shoulder high... should keep building tonight and the first true big long period swell should show up tomorrow. check out rediculous tubes at chopes from the swell about to hit california. now THAT's something to gawk at.



kooky architects ruined surfing.

Sep 15, 05 2:09 pm  · 
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dragthelake

"started to pick up a bit this morning. had a few sets at shoulder high... should keep building tonight and the first true big long period swell should show up tomorrow."

thanks for the killer surf report bra'

love,
kooky surf ruiner

Sep 15, 05 2:27 pm  · 
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A Center for Ants?

You're excused! ... and i'm not your "bra"!

Sep 15, 05 2:37 pm  · 
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JohnProlly

Chopes is a lil different than Cali - I mean, that REEF is pretty freakin intense.

Sep 15, 05 5:26 pm  · 
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A Center for Ants?

just postin a pic for everyone's leisure and pleasure. chopes is a lil different than ANYwhere on the planet.

Sep 15, 05 5:46 pm  · 
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Gordon

John Prolly..
I cant believe that you have the balls to say that east coast surf is better than west coast surf....
You must be mildy retarted or just stupid..
Until you have surfed Rincon, Trestles, Blacks, Steamer Lane and Baja, keep your pie hole shut...

Sep 15, 05 6:12 pm  · 
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MysteryMan

oooooo.. Sounds like a 'Walk-Off' comin' up, eh ANTS? Where's Billy Zane when you need him?

Sep 15, 05 7:25 pm  · 
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A Center for Ants?

or david bowie.


"perhaps i can be of service?"

Sep 15, 05 7:32 pm  · 
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arrarrzzzz... great spots, but very--how shall I say--typical. baja is great, if you know where the alternative paths go. i consider lower trestles my 'home away from home', but the grom crowds on a inconsitent day tend to drain the fun. then again, i used to be one of them; so, you can't blame them for their arrogance/aggressiveness. anyway, what are we doing talking about waves when it's DOH+ at some spots in so cal today and this weekend??? the malibu cam on www.wavewatch.com is sick and so are the crowds. good thing there are places to go with friends that not too many people know about.

did anyone see that windsurfer try to get locked in at Teahupo'o on the local news? sheezus, he got locked in alright... into a reef.

Sep 16, 05 12:30 pm  · 
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Bula

HB cliffs this morning (Friday AM)...pretty good, although not as big as predicted and a little bumpy. Also, this swell period is really long and the set intervals took forever. But it's sure nice to see something after such an uneventful summer.

Swell looks like it's already dieing down (as of 8pm)...hittin it tomorrow though…maybe get some skimming in at Balboa too.


This photo make’s me literally queasy...

Sep 17, 05 12:32 am  · 
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Bula

"sheezus, he got locked in alright... into a reef."

Sep 17, 05 1:45 am  · 
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Bula

try that again....reef

Sep 17, 05 1:47 am  · 
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OMG! You found it...

I hope someone has the video online. I work for www.panelite.us where we use surfboard technology, new material research and fabrication to make architectural panels & furniture. The owner used to shape and glass windsurf board/masts... riding all over Europe. He's going nuts waiting for this video :) The picture will suffice for now, though.

Thanks Bula!

Sep 17, 05 1:24 pm  · 
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Bula

No problem...I haven’t seen the video, but as you may have already figured out, here is the rest of the sequence. The photographer also has a lot of other really insane photos from that weekend.

Also, here is a pretty cool slide show narrated by Shane Dorian (I think): http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/2005_09_13_tahiti_dorian.cfm

By the way, Panelite looks like a really cool gig. Back when I used to skim, I would frequent the Victoria skim shop in Laguna Canyon. I assume the Poly-Vac process they use could have a few significant real world applications. A friend of mine and I once experimented with carbon fiber on a homemade skimboard. Man, it was the lightest and highest performing board I have ever used, but it only survived a week before the inevitable occurred.


Friday morning Wedge (from Sat. Register cover):


Sep 17, 05 11:13 pm  · 
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Navar

tofino goodness on this side ~ always a knock

Sep 18, 05 3:50 am  · 
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MysteryMan

I'm not a surfer, but I can ride some serious distance on my generous belly. so, anyway, I'm looking at projexts/engagements in 2 places - Myrtle beach, SC & one near Sebastian Inlet, FLA. Which one is better if I wann graduate to a surfboard....OK, maybe just a 'boogey-board".?

Sep 18, 05 10:20 pm  · 
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grid

I learned how to surf in Hawaii, moved to the east coast for 4 years (Virginia Beach) and now I'm back in Hawaii. I'd take Hawaii over the east coast anyday...I'd also take California over the east coast. While you guys had that hurricane swell we had a nice ground swell hit the south shore (the same swell that hit Tahiti). 6-8ft Hawaiian scale, offshore winds, amazing reef breaks all around. Last week was fun to say the least. The east coast can get good though and does, just not as often as other places.

Sep 19, 05 3:12 am  · 
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A Center for Ants?

mystery-

i think sebastian has a better swell window. it's exposed a bit more to fetch. myrtle beach, like many SC spots, is south-east facing which will eliminate lots of the nor'easter and more northerly hurricane swells.

sebastian is one of the more crowded spots, but you can always move down the beach a bit to find a nice easy beach break to learn on. i'm pretty sure you'll have more waves there than in SC.

Sep 19, 05 1:12 pm  · 
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johndevlin

thought you would enjoy this photo of surfer in Nova Scotia after Ophelia.

Sep 19, 05 1:31 pm  · 
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