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Gluing aluminum flashing on flat surface

mvoltin

The overall design is that the front door is about 20" inset from the front wall and the sides of that inset need to be covered, ideally with black metal looking material to match the rest of the trimming around the house

I was planning to use aluminum flashing (need about 20" wide). It needs to remain flat and, perhaps, withstand occasional light bumps. I was thinking of putting some kind of hardybacker backing and then gluing aluminum flashing to it using liquid nails in order to keep it perfectly straight and give little support. But worried about the Aluminum expanding at a different rate in heat and that causing problems. Any thoughts or advice on this? is there an alternative approach or alternative material that would not be cost-prohibitive? 

 
Jul 12, 24 4:18 pm
graphemic

Might have better luck posting here: https://www.diychatroom.com/

Jul 12, 24 4:59 pm  · 
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Non Sequitur

metal trim guys can easily bend you a J or termination trim in heavy gauge black metal flashing to suit the jamb. Not difficult at all. 

Jul 12, 24 6:28 pm  · 
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BulgarBlogger

Is this under construction? 

If you're still figuring out the detail, why not go with a 1/4" painted steel trim all around? You can either detail it so it projects past the finish face of the wall or the siding can cover it with 1/4" sealant joint. 

I'm not sure what the finish wall material is, but since it's a house, I would assume you are doing some kind of wood siding? Why not return the material to butt-up against the frame of the door and have a mitered joint at the corner?

You definitely have a lot of options, but I would stay away from trying to "glue" anything. It will most-likely deform over time. 


Jul 13, 24 11:23 pm  · 
1  · 

I agree. I'd go with a painted bent plates (1/8" or so). You could also go with prefinished brake metal but it won't be as durable.

Jul 15, 24 10:09 am  · 
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msparchitect

I don't know all the details here, how adjacent things are detailed, and where the sun is (matters a lot with thin black metalwork), but you can easily get 24" roll black aluminum trim, use a metal break to make what you're after and nail it onto a strong and flat substrate. I would not glue something that wide as it will most likely move at a different rate. Black metal trim nails exist for this. I wouldn't use hardie backer... why would you? It can crack easily if you're worried about bumps unless it too has a solid substrate. Just have a good flat OSB/Plywood backer. 

Jul 14, 24 7:49 pm  · 
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