I have very fond memories of installing Doom2' with its 9 diskettes onto my parent's Mac 5200. Fun fact, I had to turn in my first CAD assignments on 3.5floppies... some 21y ago? Fuck... that was a while ago.
I remember when we had to boot autocad and 3D studio max through the dos prompt.
Nov 15, 23 3:40 pm ·
·
J G
printing to pdf
Nov 16, 23 7:25 pm ·
·
Almosthip
I remember handing in my final assignment on a bunch of 3.5disks and having a line up up my disk files on the desk in order to get it printed by the penplotter
Don't make me get out my Mayline, Whippersnappers. And try as I might, I just can't make myself throw away that t-square. It makes a great conversation starter hanging from the mantle.
It's only a 30 x 42 board. The irony is that my cubical is 8' x 8' and is the smallest I've ever had in my professional career. There is only 38" between my working surfaces but I like the 'flow'. :)
We just repainted so I need to hang up things . . . .
So fine a point you could draw double-lined grout joints between mosaic tiles on a 1/4" floor plan. The wire inside that nib assembly was finer than a cherub's pubic hair. And you needed the hands of a brain surgeon if, God forbid, you wanted to take it apart for cleaning.
Did I mention that I walked twelve miles to studio everyday in the snow, uphill, both ways?
Working with those are a little different. To an extent they are similar to using calligraphy pen in that you need to use an inkwell to store ink between the nip tips. The round knob on top is to loosen or tighten the nib tips (or tines). Adjustments of the tine (nib) tips can be used to adjust the line thickness. Don't be concern about the line with measurements so much. Those are somewhat meaningless in this regard. Think relative thicknesses not numerical thicknesses. It's more going to be an art. The one on the right, is called a "Swedish Detail Ruling Pen". This is what you want to use for details where thicker lines would be used or other considerably more ink use. With ruling pens, ink is held by surface tension so you should have a steady hand and avoid shaking the pen. The ink would be seen between the tips when you look at it from the side. It is safe to angle it to the side to look at it after tightening the tips some but not too tight. The tips should not be closed completely. Okay. I've used these and these are just some general instructions of use if you ever do use them. I do believe there are videos of its use and some older books (in PDF format) that can help. From there it is practice and getting used to it. Some papers are not as good for the thinner pointier ruling pens from my experience. You'll also may have to practice with ink. Most ink suitable for calligraphy pens will likely be suitable for ruling pens but you have to be attentive of type of ink and paper used. If you have used calligraphy pens (nib pens for example) then you'll understand from how some ink bleeds into the paper more wildly then others. This will take some practice and you should have some paper towels around you when you first start using them and wear black (hint hint, black ink don't show up as well on black clothing.... don't wear that white dress shirt.)
Going to bust these out on my next project just to feel alive.
Passed on to me from my aunt a decade or so after my grandfather passed. He was a farmer turned high school science teacher, but according to my aunt he purchased these to draw plans for a few farm buildings and possibly an addition to his home (where my aunt still lives). Might have also used them to draw plans/surveys to help other farmers regrade their land for better irrigation.
Decent little set of drafting tools. There's somethings about drawing by hand that you don't get that feel with the computer drawings. You can make just about any technical drawings with those. Of course, I would probably recommend those for projects that don't need to be electronically submitted. Yes, you can scan the drawings. If you are equipped with means to scan and plot those scans and such, sure. That, or you make true blueprints or diazoprints (or sepia prints).
You'll likely have to do such in a more manual manner because most equipment that sort of automated those processes (like blueline machines) and such are generally not manufactured anymore so you have to do it without those equipment manually. So, if you have a large format copier, that can save you that headache.
Iif I retire well enough my goal is to have a studio room in my home with a drafting table and just draw grids all day. Like Agnes Martin, but with vellum and lead.
Why
why do we still do this to ourselves
i dont.
Two things jump out
1. you're still using cad?
2. you're still physically printing?
quick show of hands, who still remembers the smell of that little square thing autocad (and like 80% of everyone else) uses as it's save icon?
youre aging yourself (i dont remember it)
We still have a large format plotter / scanner. it will churn out a sheet in about three seconds.
how could you forget loading the 35 disks just to install windows 95
I remember when you actually owned programs and didn't just least them. ;)
I have very fond memories of installing Doom2' with its 9 diskettes onto my parent's Mac 5200. Fun fact, I had to turn in my first CAD assignments on 3.5floppies... some 21y ago? Fuck... that was a while ago.
I remember when we had to boot autocad and 3D studio max through the dos prompt.
printing to pdf
I remember handing in my final assignment on a bunch of 3.5disks and having a line up up my disk files on the desk in order to get it printed by the penplotter
I remember creating actual blueprints from plotting on mylar! Ah the sinus clearing smell of ammonia.
diazoprints.
I remember sepia prints and pin bar registration
Don't make me get out my Mayline, Whippersnappers. And try as I might, I just can't make myself throw away that t-square. It makes a great conversation starter hanging from the mantle.
I still have mine at home. Heck, I have a drafting board and square at my office . . . .
I have mine and also have an led light panel (to be used like a light box).
Easier than using a large glass window.
M’y Maryline did not survive the move back from grad school. Re-stringing those is a bitch. Still keep a square at the office and I use it too.
that's a lot of leasable square footage chad. we could probably fit three interns there.
Chad, do you routinely shoot arrows into your office walls?
You have small internes then. ;)
It's only a 30 x 42 board. The irony is that my cubical is 8' x 8' and is the smallest I've ever had in my professional career. There is only 38" between my working surfaces but I like the 'flow'. :)
We just repainted so I need to hang up things . . . .
Non - I shoot arrows at everything, all the time. This includes my office wall and any annoying team members. ;)
That particular arrow is from an elk hunt. After hitting the elk in the heart the shaft broke off . I took it and turned it into a push pin. ;)
Leroy and Tom Q. Vaxy
Pen nibs and dividers in a velvet lined case.
Rapidograph pen, triple-aught (000)!
So fine a point you could draw double-lined grout joints between mosaic tiles on a 1/4" floor plan. The wire inside that nib assembly was finer than a cherub's pubic hair. And you needed the hands of a brain surgeon if, God forbid, you wanted to take it apart for cleaning.
Did I mention that I walked twelve miles to studio everyday in the snow, uphill, both ways?
In sandals through Wolverine Pass in the Land of the Owl Turds or is that just an urban legend?
drawing without bending the nib on that would have been an exercise in mindfulness meditation
Back in my day, we drove those fuckers through the mylar, into the borco, and they loved it!!
More than once those fell from the desk into the wood floor and stood perfectly vertical.
Ever have one stick in the toe of your shoe JLC-1? I have a 'self done' tattoo on my left foot from this.
Yes, and still the fun of these:
True old-fashion drafting pens.
Sweet throwing knives. M
i have used rapidographs for drawings, but never those
Working with those are a little different. To an extent they are similar to using calligraphy pen in that you need to use an inkwell to store ink between the nip tips. The round knob on top is to loosen or tighten the nib tips (or tines). Adjustments of the tine (nib) tips can be used to adjust the line thickness. Don't be concern about the line with measurements so much. Those are somewhat meaningless in this regard. Think relative thicknesses not numerical thicknesses. It's more going to be an art. The one on the right, is called a "Swedish Detail Ruling Pen". This is what you want to use for details where thicker lines would be used or other considerably more ink use. With ruling pens, ink is held by surface tension so you should have a steady hand and avoid shaking the pen. The ink would be seen between the tips when you look at it from the side. It is safe to angle it to the side to look at it after tightening the tips some but not too tight. The tips should not be closed completely. Okay. I've used these and these are just some general instructions of use if you ever do use them. I do believe there are videos of its use and some older books (in PDF format) that can help. From there it is practice and getting used to it. Some papers are not as good for the thinner pointier ruling pens from my experience. You'll also may have to practice with ink. Most ink suitable for calligraphy pens will likely be suitable for ruling pens but you have to be attentive of type of ink and paper used. If you have used calligraphy pens (nib pens for example) then you'll understand from how some ink bleeds into the paper more wildly then others. This will take some practice and you should have some paper towels around you when you first start using them and wear black (hint hint, black ink don't show up as well on black clothing.... don't wear that white dress shirt.)
Going to bust these out on my next project just to feel alive.
Passed on to me from my aunt a decade or so after my grandfather passed. He was a farmer turned high school science teacher, but according to my aunt he purchased these to draw plans for a few farm buildings and possibly an addition to his home (where my aunt still lives). Might have also used them to draw plans/surveys to help other farmers regrade their land for better irrigation.
Decent little set of drafting tools. There's somethings about drawing by hand that you don't get that feel with the computer drawings. You can make just about any technical drawings with those. Of course, I would probably recommend those for projects that don't need to be electronically submitted. Yes, you can scan the drawings. If you are equipped with means to scan and plot those scans and such, sure. That, or you make true blueprints or diazoprints (or sepia prints).
You'll likely have to do such in a more manual manner because most equipment that sort of automated those processes (like blueline machines) and such are generally not manufactured anymore so you have to do it without those equipment manually. So, if you have a large format copier, that can save you that headache.
My grandpa was an engineer and I have his set of these.
Classic.
that's the good stuff
Yes, you can scan the drawings. If you are equipped with means to scan and plot those scans and such, sure.
https://archinect.com/forum/thread/150398898/whygcp
Iif I retire well enough my goal is to have a studio room in my home with a drafting table and just draw grids all day. Like Agnes Martin, but with vellum and lead.
that would be very nice. I built an 8' drafting table back in the day. Still want to remake it...
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