Long answer: Why not hire (and pay for) a professional to give you an appropriate answer to your question? It's not likely as simple as you make it out and no-one here will be able to give you a specific answer that suits your conditions.
Snarky answer: Hire a consultant you cheap wanker.
As other have said - this is more complex than you're making it out. No one can give you a good answer based on the info you've provided.
Factors that will impact the answer: your location, the orientation of the building, the type of construction, stud spacing, wall and roof assemblies, locations of vapor retarders, the type of insulation being used, the location of the insulation within the wall / roof assembly, the location of the dewpoint within each assembly, ect.
1 thank you for your response. I will defiantly hire someone then it will be a time. For now I am doing my homework to sketch up my dream vacation house / cabin at an recreation area.
For now I am only positive about the following things: Mediterranean climate (if it will be in US - Zoning 3A-4A) 1 story / wood frame 9' ceiling / flat roof 24' stud spacing "direct vent" fireplace as a heating unit. no basement / no encapsulation crawl space
I am considering between "2x4 / R15 " and "2x6 / R23" walls. (ROCKWOOL sound/fire/thermal)
So, this wall/ceiling insulation ratio will help me to make a decision (as we all have a budget).
2 My first priority - perfect air. I want to avoid "winter mold".
I am open about "vapor retarders", crawl space design, etc,
You're not going to get an answer here. The question is simply too complicated to answer without actually knowing more. FYI - the new info you just provided is almost worthless in answering your question.
Also - you're asking us to provide you with free services. This may seem mean however, how would you feel if we asked you to do your job for us for free.
Hire someone now before you go too far in your dreamhouse sketch. It will be worth every dime you spend.
May 8, 24 3:18 pm ·
·
Non Sequitur
Has the “cash” got a vacation home yet no funds to hire professionals
. Cheap wanker is cheap.
I don't think the OP said they had the cash for anything. They did say it was a building renovation, then said it's new construction. Who knows. Probably a troll.
thank you for mention passivhaus, it's a nice concept.
Why do you think "direct vent" fireplace is not good for perfect air?
The ads stated the air in the room is completely separated. No issues with humidity or burned oxygen.
It's sound like a regular furnace that just looks nice and don't need ducts.
I even thought to buy a couple of them in case if I'll have a bedroom.
May 8, 24 5:16 pm ·
·
proto
penetration for vent is hot & requires non-combustible matls adjacent to it & inevitably is poorly sealed due to lack of suitable air sealing materials
May 8, 24 7:20 pm ·
·
Nikolay_M
Are you talking about "exhaust gas" ("#3") or "convective heat"?
@nikolay_m there are materials that people use, but that's different from them performing well enough to offer a good solutions. With the push to improve air sealing in homes, fireplaces are problematic for 1) fuel choice relative to climate change, 2) off-gassing indoors & out & 3) for creating problem discontinuities in the building envelope because sealant has a short lifespan relative to the other building materials [it is a maintenance item for buildings, not a permanent installation]
I would agree that "all electric" house will eventually produce less pollution.
However, nowadays accumulators looks problematic for a "green energy".
Comparing apples to apples:
1
natural gas furnace AFUE rating: 80%-94%
direct vent gas fireplace AFUE: 70%-80% - a bit less.
At the same time we'll have less losses with ductless delivery. So, real AFUE and "outdoors off-gassing" will be about the same imho.
2
"off-gassing indoors" - can be a real issue.
Are you talking about your own experience or have some research in mind?
May 10, 24 7:07 pm ·
·
natematt
"I would agree that "all electric" house will eventually produce less pollution"
This is contingent on your local grid mix. Generally the trend is towards more sustainable electricity production, and if you live somewhere that is more invested then all electric will very quickly become a much better option for operational carbon.
If you really want a gas fireplace... that's fine, sounds cool... do it because you like it...and hire a professional.
Energystar.gov Insulation Recommendation
Hello,
according with Energystar.gov Insulation Recommendation for "retrofitting existing house":
https://www.energystar.gov/saveathome/seal_insulate/identify-problems-you-want-fix/diy-checks-inspections/insulation-r-values
recommended R Value for 4A zone will be:
"If your attic is uninsulated": R60
"Uninsulated wood-frame wall": R5 to R10
So, if I get it right, attic insulation R value should be 6-12 times higher then for walls. (average ratio: 1 to 9)
Did I get it right ?
What's the optimum attic/wall insulation ratio for a 1-2 store wood frame house ?
Thank you,
Nikolay
Long answer: Why not hire (and pay for) a professional to give you an appropriate answer to your question? It's not likely as simple as you make it out and no-one here will be able to give you a specific answer that suits your conditions.
Snarky answer: Hire a consultant you cheap wanker.
ask the contractor
Nikolay_M
As other have said - this is more complex than you're making it out. No one can give you a good answer based on the info you've provided.
Factors that will impact the answer: your location, the orientation of the building, the type of construction, stud spacing, wall and roof assemblies, locations of vapor retarders, the type of insulation being used, the location of the insulation within the wall / roof assembly, the location of the dewpoint within each assembly, ect.
Hire someone to help you with this.
Hello Chad,
1
thank you for your response.
I will defiantly hire someone then it will be a time.
For now I am doing my homework to sketch up my dream vacation house / cabin at an recreation area.
For now I am only positive about the following things:
Mediterranean climate (if it will be in US - Zoning 3A-4A)
1 story / wood frame
9' ceiling / flat roof
24' stud spacing
"direct vent" fireplace as a heating unit.
no basement / no encapsulation crawl space
I am considering between "2x4 / R15 " and "2x6 / R23" walls. (ROCKWOOL sound/fire/thermal)
So, this wall/ceiling insulation ratio will help me to make a decision (as we all have a budget).
2
My first priority - perfect air.
I want to avoid "winter mold".
I am open about "vapor retarders", crawl space design, etc,
You're not going to get an answer here. The question is simply too complicated to answer without actually knowing more. FYI - the new info you just provided is almost worthless in answering your question.
Also - you're asking us to provide you with free services. This may seem mean however, how would you feel if we asked you to do your job for us for free.
Hire someone now before you go too far in your dreamhouse sketch. It will be worth every dime you spend.
Has the “cash” got a vacation home yet no funds to hire professionals
. Cheap wanker is cheap.
I don't think the OP said they had the cash for anything. They did say it was a building renovation, then said it's new construction. Who knows. Probably a troll.
Ratios for the relative r-values will only get you so far, but they do exist as a guideline (per BSC): 60:40:20:10:5
r-60 ceiling
r-40 abv grade wall
r-20 below grade wall
r-10 subslab
r-5 window
don't do a direct vent fireplace as your heat source, especially if your first priority is "perfect air"
climate zones 3A & 4A are two entirely different things. you'll want to figure out what your location actually is.
the link you started with is for retrofitting existing structures. start googling for new structures. Maybe consider passivhaus
Hello Proto,
thank you for mention passivhaus, it's a nice concept.
Why do you think "direct vent" fireplace is not good for perfect air?
The ads stated the air in the room is completely separated. No issues with humidity or burned oxygen.
It's sound like a regular furnace that just looks nice and don't need ducts.
I even thought to buy a couple of them in case if I'll have a bedroom.
penetration for vent is hot & requires non-combustible matls adjacent to it & inevitably is poorly sealed due to lack of suitable air sealing materials
Are you talking about "exhaust gas" ("#3") or "convective heat"?
Both.
If it's about exhaust
Isn't "outside exhaust pipe" inside a "outside combustion pipe" resolve the issue ?
In wood construction - no. Hire an architect.
Architects and builders may have different opinions depending on their experience. It is interesting to know opinions of a wide range of builders.
Not everything is a matter of opinion. Hire a professional.
@nikolay_m there are materials that people use, but that's different from them performing well enough to offer a good solutions. With the push to improve air sealing in homes, fireplaces are problematic for 1) fuel choice relative to climate change, 2) off-gassing indoors & out & 3) for creating problem discontinuities in the building envelope because sealant has a short lifespan relative to the other building materials [it is a maintenance item for buildings, not a permanent installation]
@proto thank you for sharing this.
I would agree that "all electric" house will eventually produce less pollution.
However, nowadays accumulators looks problematic for a "green energy".
Comparing apples to apples:
1
natural gas furnace AFUE rating: 80%-94%
direct vent gas fireplace AFUE: 70%-80% - a bit less.
At the same time we'll have less losses with ductless delivery. So, real AFUE and "outdoors off-gassing" will be about the same imho.
2 "off-gassing indoors" - can be a real issue. Are you talking about your own experience or have some research in mind?
"I would agree that "all electric" house will eventually produce less pollution"
This is contingent on your local grid mix. Generally the trend is towards more sustainable electricity production, and if you live somewhere that is more invested then all electric will very quickly become a much better option for operational carbon.
If you really want a gas fireplace... that's fine, sounds cool... do it because you like it...and hire a professional.
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