Apr '04 - Aug '07
This could not have been a better last day of my old life. I surfed a 7 hour session in town without taking a break. The waves were 8-14 ft faces and conditions were hot, no wetsuit, and good people in the water. Even a few outta-towners were pleasant to talk to. I got last minute advice from some older guys that I respect and even gave a few waves to some groms (young kids) -- knowing that I was now one of the older guys to them.
I don't have any pictures to share of the session, but my face and eyes are torched. Tomorrow is our first day in studio with Hernan and possibly Elena... I know my scorched face will turn some heads and provoke questions from my studio mates, but I hope it does not leave a bad first impression. I seriously look like I'm all doped up (eyes red and all). The funny thing is drugs never were my thing. I tried pot once on a surf trip with my brother and some older surf guys who I no longer respect. Sure, gettting a bit loaded with friends drinking beer and/or mixed drinks has always been fun, but drug use is lame.
Here's a cool picture I found of Hurricane Howard, the first really big waves Los Angeles has had all summer. Now I'm off to dreamland -- I'm going to try to induce a dream about leaving my old ways behind and succeeding in studio :) The one thing I've been preparing for tomorrow is for what some would call "the worst", but I call "the best". A totally focused and intense professor who's willing to push me to the edge of my creative potential. Maybe that will be my dream... getting to the edge, and then jumping off to creatively surf the clouds of a hurricane (yes, the hurricane is symbolic of graduate school).
Teahupo'o, Tahiti | The Edge of Life/Death (symbolic of my own edge)
Hurricane Howard | Just off Baja (symbolic of intellectual storm ahead)