It was that blistering 40 degrees plus European summer of 2003 when - since we were on holiday in Alsace - I bundled a puzzled family into the car and headed off through the Vosges mountains of eastern France to look at a small church on a hill in a semi-industrial landscape. I had wanted to see this building for decades. We arrived panting, heat-struck, ill-tempered. But not for long. We had entered the presence of greatness. Gabion
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