No two people, let alone architects, perceive even the most frequented cities in the same way. How do designers experience their cities as locals?
The coastal city of Seattle, Washington is not as "sleepy" as some would assume. It's full of gems that the architecturally inclined traveler can appreciate — aside obvious landmarks like the Seattle Central Library, the Experience Music Project, the Olympic Sculpture Park, and of course, the Space Needle, among other tourist hotspots. Not too far away from the central downtown area is Capitol Hill. Never heard of it? No need to be a bespectacled, coffee-guzzling, plaid-sporting millennial to enjoy this part of town. Archinect reached out to locally based architect Paul Michael Davis, who shared some of his favorite spots around this charming neighborhood that non-locals might overlook.
Give Paul Michael Davis' "stops" a try the next time you venture out to Seattle, and you might discover something new about this part of the Pacific Northwest.
STOP 1: Trove - 500 East Pike, Seattle, WA 98122
This Korean eatery is a great stop on the way from the downtown landmarks to the hipster heart of Capitol Hill. They offer creative ice cream parfaits served out of a built-in food truck (I recommend the Creamsicle: Coconut tapioca, macerated orange, coconut macaroon, mandarin frozen custard). Next door are tasty noodles and drinks in the front bar, and a full Korean BBQ in the back restaurant. These service areas are clearly differentiated, but flow together nicely into a smart, contemporary, primary-red whole.
STOP 2: Chapel of St. Ignatius - 901 12th Ave, Seattle, WA 98122
Steven Holl’s small chapel on the Seattle University campus opened in 1997 and it is a rare example of a contemporary building in Seattle that has gotten better with time. The stained tilt-up concrete exterior has a rich patina from two decades of weather, and the wax-drip-covered walls in the small, meditative space in the back now have a beautiful shadow from the touch of countless visitors.
STOP 3: Bullitt Center - 1501 East Madison Street, Seattle, WA 98122
It bills itself as ‘the greenest commercial building in the world,’ and it is also a fine piece of urban design. A massive canopy of solar panels hangs over the building and adjacent sidewalk, and a casual passerby can also see the exposed heavy timber construction inside, and the constructed wetlands out front. Guided tours are also available.
STOP 4: Chophouse Row + Cupcake Royale - 1111 E Pike St, Seattle, WA 98122
Cupcake Royale’s flagship store opened in 2009, and is an intriguing, post-modern twist on café interiors. Seattle artist and furniture maker Roy McMakin’s design of the space offers the careful observer clever juxtapositions of modern and traditional, refined and coarse, machined and handcrafted. In 2015, the back door of the shop was connected to Chophouse Row, a thoughtful mixed-use development of small commercial spaces on a just-industrial-enough interior alley and courtyard. The tenants are still coming at the time of writing this, but they promise to be good for the design-inclined.
STOP 5: Totokaelo + Elliott Bay Bookstore - 1523 10th Ave, Seattle, WA 98122
If this tour were in Seattle’s Belltown neighborhood, it would include a stop at the outstanding architecture and design bookstore, Peter Miller Books. But that is a long hike from the Pike Pine Corridor, so you can satisfy your book browsing needs with the formidable selection at the Seattle institution Elliott Bay Books, which recently relocated here in a warm, timbered, turn-of-the-century warehouse building.
Then, go next door to Totokaelo for a much bolder interpretation of the same building. They sell exquisite and expensive clothes and housewares, and the men’s shop downstairs achieves the incredible feat of transforming a windowless Seattle basement into a bright, inviting space all with a clarity and simplicity rarely found in the Pacific Northwest. When you’re done, Oddfellows next door is a great spot to grab a nicely crafted cocktail.
STOP 6: Volunteer Park - 1400 E Prospect St, Seattle, WA 98112
All of the previous stops were within Capitol Hill’s up-to-the-minute-hip Pike Pine Corridor, but it is also worth venturing to the northern part of the neighborhood. The Olmstead Brothers’ designed Volunteer Park is a calming, verdant break from the city grid, and a favorite hangout for locals. While you’re there, climb up the steps to the top of the brick water tower for a great view of the city and snowy mountains beyond.
Then take in the stout art deco splendor of the Seattle Asian Art Museum (which also often has outstanding exhibits of contemporary art, especially from Japan). Wrap up the trip peering through Isamu Noguchi’s ‘Black Sun’ which perfectly frames Seattle’s favorite architectural landmark, the Space Needle.
Paul Michael Davis leads an architectural practice based on Seattle’s Capitol Hill, focusing on really freaking cool stuff—at least as much as possible. He attended the University of Washington and worked for leading architects in New York and Los Angeles.
Check out Archinect's previous travel guides here.
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