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low slope standing seam metal roof

njp

i've been contemplating using standing seam metal, possibly rheinzink, for a low slope (1:12 & .5:12) roof application for a house. before I begin detailing the roof, I'd like to get some input...

obviously standing seam metal looks better than a torch-on membrane roof, but what are your experiences on the performance of using this system for such a low slope?

cheers.

 
Apr 23, 07 1:35 pm
vado retro

check out sarnafil roofing. you can make your roof look like a standing metal seam roof even though its a hot air welded thermoplastic membrane.

Apr 23, 07 1:45 pm  · 
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cornellbox

Unless it's somehow going to be in view, I would question the use of rheinzink at all, as well as the standing seam.

Is this going to be a very visible roof despite the low slope?

Your roofer may prefer to do a flat seam instead.

I've seen info about the sarna products; but are they readily available for a residential purpose?

Apr 23, 07 2:43 pm  · 
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whistler

I've done plenty in a very wet /snowy climate. The key is that you basically build a double roof and for the most part it is extra but completely bomber assembly

as follows;

-metal standing seam
-building paper on double set of cross strapping, (min 2x4 over 2x4)
-ice and water sheild on ply sub roof
-structural systems / rafters with cross strapping for ventilation.
-batt insulation
-vapour barrier
-celing finish

keep in mind that to have an exposed rafter assembly the insulation would need to be on the cold side of the vapour barrier and in this case you would use the ice and water sheild as the vapour barrier. seems like over kill but any slop below 1:3 needs to have a membrane product ( even if it were shingles )

Apr 23, 07 2:54 pm  · 
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njp

thanks whistler. this is a project in the interior of B.C. with a similar (not as severe) snow load and climate to Whistler. I will be exposing the joists/wood decking. have you typically used batt, rigid or spray insulation in assemblies such as these?

Apr 23, 07 3:01 pm  · 
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whistler

All of the above, big degree of price difference for all but with the exposed decking we used rigid and used spray foam too. Both options work but it depends on the availability of the spray foam guys, interior is a better place for the spray due to its superior quality for hte summer heat.

Apr 23, 07 5:45 pm  · 
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whistler

All of the above, big degree of price difference for all but with the exposed decking we used rigid and used spray foam too. Both options work but it depends on the availability of the spray foam guys, interior is a better place for the spray due to its superior quality for hte summer heat.

Apr 23, 07 5:45 pm  · 
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vado retro

they have been used in residential but usually high end shtuff.

Apr 23, 07 5:50 pm  · 
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ih1542006

I recently did a hand seamed Terne metal Standing Seam roof on a 2:12 roof. I consulted with Follansbee before specifing how it should be done on my plans. All the seams got seam tape and the valleys were TCS so we could fold the seams down a solder(no seam tape there). There was a specific reason why we did the valleys this way. The Valleys got ice and water shield and Follansbee does not recommend an asphalt underlayment in contact with regular Terne metal so we used the TCS for the valleys. Valleys intersected an asphalt shingle roof so we were being cautious It has not leaked for the 3 years it has been on. I knew before going into the job putting Standing seam on a roof below a 3:12 slope is a no no. unless detailed properly. We were really glad we did the SS on this job other wise it would have ended up EPDM. All in All Follansbee was a big help.

Apr 23, 07 6:56 pm  · 
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morfo

I have done pretty much a flat roof except for drainage pitch with the standing seam and basically the assembly is similar to what whitsler has described. so it's doable.

Apr 23, 07 10:56 pm  · 
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whistler

We tried zinc products on one of the standing seam assemblies and it had a really bad staining issue , we ended up just using a prefinished metal that had the same color tone and it wasw much less expensive.

Apr 24, 07 12:38 pm  · 
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bothands

I've detailed a "flat folded seam" with soldered joints (in lead-coated copper, quite labor intensive and expensive) for a roof pitch as low as you're describing. Otherwise to avoid all the steps/layers Whistler describes above, you need a commercial 'standing seam look' product rather than traditional actual "standing seam", that's in fact snap on caps/battens (but only some products go down below 1:12 with a warrantee).

Apr 24, 07 2:24 pm  · 
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24out1in

not sure if this question requires a new entry... but what is the minimum slope that i should use on a "s" clay tile roof? i have looked at different manufacturers and have received different answers. I am hoping to do a 3:12. Cost (as always I guess) is a Major concern. Thanks in advance!

oh also- snow and ice are not a factor by any means in this case.

May 9, 07 9:00 am  · 
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