If you have access to a current of former school's photo studio use it. Ask the person in charge of the studio how best to light your models given the final look you are going for (realism, surrealism...) and the equipment they have. Also, if your shooting film/slides find out what film they recommend (tungsten light corrected for color).
cover a table w/ a smooth black cloth. drape another large, smooth black cloth from a wall using tacks. push the table against the wall. this will give you a perfect environment to place your models in for photographing. set up one light off to one side and above for general fill/"daylight", that just gets the area generally lit with few shadows. then move a second light around to get the shadows/highlights you want (having another person around to maneuver the light while you set up the shot in frame is very handy).
use a tripod!! very important!!
adjust levels, hue/saturation and brightness/contrast in photoshop to finalize.
i disagree with strong direct lighting, especially on basswood models. Strong spots work well on foam or matte board models but has a bad effect on wood.
try indirectly lighting the models by reflecting spot lights off of a white board (a piece of matte will do.) this will give the model a nice even glow instead of harsh contrasts which can bring out even the slightest defects in craft.
it all depends on the design your photographing though. maybe harsh shadow lines is what you're trying to portray.
wangsta has a good point. be careful with the second lamp. mess around with different techniques/placements until you are very happy with the lighting.
take a ton of photographs, especially since you're working with digital (i personally shoot models with a regular 35mm slr camera). you should know which are the most important shots of your own model. but i would recommend covering all of the standards (all elevation and plan views) first, then branching out into perspectives, spending plenty of time closely examining how the light is treating different areas of the model.
make sure you can adjust the depth of field. nothing more anonoying than a bad photo of a model. but you knew that already. even the cheaper digicams have ways of getting around that. tripod works best though. i use a manfrotto 190 db w/ bogen 468rc2 ball head. heavy but she doesn't move.
i use white backgrounds- contrary to everyone here it seems. A black background suggests a night shot- and if you have to rely on the building only looking good at night- then often the scheme isn't good enough. Daylighting/ or bright lighting is a more critical way of photographing a scheme, so if it looks good- then the scheme probably is good.
i use a strong light on one side- if at home a cheap lamp with a halogen bulb is great because it has a really white light- which stops yellowing, and then another angle poise light for ambient lighting with a normal bulb- more like sunlight- sometimes with tracing paper over the front to really make it ambient. Then definately use a tripod, and i like really low sort of elevational/worms eye views of models(slightly dependent on the scheme.)
having said all of that you can make really badly made models- or just really quick models and photograph them to look like the model is really well made and beautiful. but i use an old fashioned camera. i find it easier to get better results. i also take loads of pictures, because the smallest thing can ruin a photo, and photoshop isnt always the answer.
Eye-level pictures from a model can be really nice (depending on scale of model)...
Wooden models can look great black&white...
To create evening views try taking pictures with only artificial light and disable the flash...
that's great guys but there are alot more variables
digital vs analog/slr photos
inside vs outside
type of materials
etc etc
big cues
always have assistance
use a tripod
make sure the base of the model is large enough to seem continuous in the shot
whatever you are using for the background has no blemishes (i found black turned fluid when direct light was used
also have a light/flash stand
Bird's Eye View - Soft filtered lighting. I don't like heavy shadows messing with the views.
Human Scale Shots - Strong directional lighting. Creates Crisp shadows, and lends a real sense of depth.
Also, never use more than one direct light. If you do, you end up with multiple shadows from multiple angles.
I would say taking pics inside is more controlled, with fewer variables you can't control. Taking pics outside is more of a "Seize the Moment" type of thing.
photographing models
im looking for some tips on photgraphing arch models for my portfolio, mostly basswood ones, any commentary would be greatly appreciated.
the more contrast you can get the better you models will look. Strong direct lighting and a very dark background
outdoors on a sunny day w/ a black sheet / blanket...hmmmm, sounds like a nice date idea - if you throw in a bottle of wine...
If you have access to a current of former school's photo studio use it. Ask the person in charge of the studio how best to light your models given the final look you are going for (realism, surrealism...) and the equipment they have. Also, if your shooting film/slides find out what film they recommend (tungsten light corrected for color).
no im doing it at home with a digital camera
cover a table w/ a smooth black cloth. drape another large, smooth black cloth from a wall using tacks. push the table against the wall. this will give you a perfect environment to place your models in for photographing. set up one light off to one side and above for general fill/"daylight", that just gets the area generally lit with few shadows. then move a second light around to get the shadows/highlights you want (having another person around to maneuver the light while you set up the shot in frame is very handy).
use a tripod!! very important!!
adjust levels, hue/saturation and brightness/contrast in photoshop to finalize.
hey thanks joed... are there certain shots that are 'standar' shots? for example axos, elevations, etc...?
i disagree with strong direct lighting, especially on basswood models. Strong spots work well on foam or matte board models but has a bad effect on wood.
try indirectly lighting the models by reflecting spot lights off of a white board (a piece of matte will do.) this will give the model a nice even glow instead of harsh contrasts which can bring out even the slightest defects in craft.
it all depends on the design your photographing though. maybe harsh shadow lines is what you're trying to portray.
wangsta has a good point. be careful with the second lamp. mess around with different techniques/placements until you are very happy with the lighting.
take a ton of photographs, especially since you're working with digital (i personally shoot models with a regular 35mm slr camera). you should know which are the most important shots of your own model. but i would recommend covering all of the standards (all elevation and plan views) first, then branching out into perspectives, spending plenty of time closely examining how the light is treating different areas of the model.
DIGITAL Basswood model photo recipe:
outside preferably on a table or on ground. against a wall
black felt slowly curved (no creases) and tacked on the wall
diffuse the direct sun with a cut open (white frosted colored) plastic trash bag
use a large sheet of foam to bouce light to the front of the model
snap away shots
Photoshop doctor to your liking.
make sure you can adjust the depth of field. nothing more anonoying than a bad photo of a model. but you knew that already. even the cheaper digicams have ways of getting around that. tripod works best though. i use a manfrotto 190 db w/ bogen 468rc2 ball head. heavy but she doesn't move.
i use white backgrounds- contrary to everyone here it seems. A black background suggests a night shot- and if you have to rely on the building only looking good at night- then often the scheme isn't good enough. Daylighting/ or bright lighting is a more critical way of photographing a scheme, so if it looks good- then the scheme probably is good.
i use a strong light on one side- if at home a cheap lamp with a halogen bulb is great because it has a really white light- which stops yellowing, and then another angle poise light for ambient lighting with a normal bulb- more like sunlight- sometimes with tracing paper over the front to really make it ambient. Then definately use a tripod, and i like really low sort of elevational/worms eye views of models(slightly dependent on the scheme.)
having said all of that you can make really badly made models- or just really quick models and photograph them to look like the model is really well made and beautiful. but i use an old fashioned camera. i find it easier to get better results. i also take loads of pictures, because the smallest thing can ruin a photo, and photoshop isnt always the answer.
Eye-level pictures from a model can be really nice (depending on scale of model)...
Wooden models can look great black&white...
To create evening views try taking pictures with only artificial light and disable the flash...
yes i forgot. never ever use flash. break the bulb. stamp on it and then eat it. the only thing flash is good for is websites.
that's great guys but there are alot more variables
digital vs analog/slr photos
inside vs outside
type of materials
etc etc
big cues
always have assistance
use a tripod
make sure the base of the model is large enough to seem continuous in the shot
whatever you are using for the background has no blemishes (i found black turned fluid when direct light was used
also have a light/flash stand
Bird's Eye View - Soft filtered lighting. I don't like heavy shadows messing with the views.
Human Scale Shots - Strong directional lighting. Creates Crisp shadows, and lends a real sense of depth.
Also, never use more than one direct light. If you do, you end up with multiple shadows from multiple angles.
I would say taking pics inside is more controlled, with fewer variables you can't control. Taking pics outside is more of a "Seize the Moment" type of thing.
m2c
Oh, spend the time to set up the shot, and do as much with the camera as possible. Photoshop can only do so much.
and make sure to tell the model to "work it baby!"
give me "tiger"
or zaha
or just get straight down to making
the money shot
(the portfolio/ crit winner that has everyone totally envious)
Thank you PATRICK! That was one of the best answers ever on Archinect -it was both helpful and quite entertaining.
I LOOOOOOOOOOVE PHOTOGRAPHY!!!!!!!!!!!
BTW, is she one of the models you spoke about hooking people up with if they found you a location for your photo shoot in NYC?
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