As part of my endless home remodel I'm converting two old fashioned masonry fireplaces to new modern stylish wood burning fireplaces. The fireplaces are the over-under style where they share the same masonry structure with separate flues. One in the basement and the other on the main floor. My plan is to refinish at least one this winter. Right now I'm in the schematic stages more or less.
There are two fireplace models my wife and I have agreed on. First is the Wittus H530.
Each will fit the existing openings and will sit flush with a new veneer over the existing brick.
If you know anything about either fireplace please chime in. Don't know much about either, but form is following function at this point. Do love a good wood fire though, so I'd like to feel the heat. Surprisingly info on wood burning fireplaces seems to be hard to come by - even in a cold weather region. As someone who generally despises natural gas fireplaces feel free to pass me anything you might know about wood burners.
I'll try to post some photos of the original condition when I get a chance. With any luck (barring complete economic meltdown) I'll have something by first snow, or at least when there's snow this winter.
If it is you may be in better shape - looks like you can connect to the liner. If its masonry stack you may need some modification to exhaust into into it from a fire box insert - first is it allowed in your town, second - you may need a flexible connection into the stack - is this allowed and third you need some sort of diaphram to close off the underside of the stack - is this allowed? Its possible that having one fire box closed off from the stack while the other is open (they both share a stack right?) could be draft inhibiting situation. But Im not a fireplace expert by no means - just some items to consider to talking to your local builder or building dept about -
They don't share the chimney. It's one masonry structure with two chimney (stacks). Existing is wood burning. Will have to demo the old damper and use a flex connection to get around the smoke shelf. Plan to reline the old chimney with insulated SST. All allowed per local codes and is common for fireplace install.
Not 100% sure on design. Want a flush install. A lot of inserts stick out and look like afterthoughts. I want it to look like there never was a 1960's fireplace ever there. Do want a mantle and hearth and like the "floating" look. Might change my mind though. Like I said, this is SD thinking here.
I like both of those, aqua, and I'm sure they are 1. really well made and 2. not cheap. Good for you going the actual wood flame route!
I'm planning to do the same but! we have a two-sided fireplace, and I don't know of any two-sided inserts. For the moment, since winter is coming and I love the idea of using wood not gas to heat the house, we're buying some fairly inexpensive fireplace screens that will close out drafts when not in use. The problem with open fireplaces is they suck heat right out - my hope is that the two-sided fireplace, in the middle of the room, will let the brick heat up and retain that heat then radiate it to the room through the evening. The inexpensive screens are a trial run of this idea.
WOuld love to see your existing condition and what your design for the surround of the new stoves is.
Don't know if this helps, but 3 years ago we had 15lf of 12" round duct inserted and the "smoke chamber parged" for $700. No idea if the flue liner was insulated or not...
Evilp - The dealers I've talked to said only use the heatilator brand liner which they sell a relining kit for around $600. Said that does a 15' run and is SST. Seems in-line with the price LB stated. Looked at some of local home centers and they are selling galv chimney liner for about 1/3 the price or less. Probably would work but something is telling me not to cut corners when dealing with fire.
LB - I'll get photos up soon as I can remember my flickr password. Nothing beats a real wood fire. One dealer was trying to push me that way and I told him if that's what I wanted I'd put a window on my furnace. Good luck with your 2 sided fireplace. I saw some new fireplace units for corner/2 side installs, but no inserts. There seems to be quite a few holes in the fireplace market someone could exploit.
Cost wise the Wittus unit is $2800 and still am waiting for the price on the Morso. Throw in the chimney liner and other prep work and I'm looking at a good chunk of change. One of the primary reasons for this being a DIY job. Also heard that the "pros" usually do sloppy work (paid hourly) while a DIY'er can do equally good if proper research and care is taken.
Im still confused Aqua - you do or do not need a fire break or diaphram at the underside of the stack - Im reading the manual pdf from the website and they call for a "fire break"; but its really just a diagram
For a Wittus, $2800 is reasonable. I used one for a client, but a freestanding one that was about $5k, and it is a beautifully designed and fabricated piece of work.
evilp - I'm not sure I understand your question. Are you referring to fire stops which much be at the chimney where it passes through floors or roof structure? When relining an old chimney you typically tear out the old flue damper and put in place a metal plate to close off the space between the old chimney and the new liner.
Sep 18, 08 12:57 pm ·
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My fireplace remodel
As part of my endless home remodel I'm converting two old fashioned masonry fireplaces to new modern stylish wood burning fireplaces. The fireplaces are the over-under style where they share the same masonry structure with separate flues. One in the basement and the other on the main floor. My plan is to refinish at least one this winter. Right now I'm in the schematic stages more or less.
There are two fireplace models my wife and I have agreed on. First is the Wittus H530.
The other is the Morso 5660.
Each will fit the existing openings and will sit flush with a new veneer over the existing brick.
If you know anything about either fireplace please chime in. Don't know much about either, but form is following function at this point. Do love a good wood fire though, so I'd like to feel the heat. Surprisingly info on wood burning fireplaces seems to be hard to come by - even in a cold weather region. As someone who generally despises natural gas fireplaces feel free to pass me anything you might know about wood burners.
I'll try to post some photos of the original condition when I get a chance. With any luck (barring complete economic meltdown) I'll have something by first snow, or at least when there's snow this winter.
they seem like microwaves.....
are you planning on doing a simple flat elevation with these?...
is your existing fireplace gas?
If it is you may be in better shape - looks like you can connect to the liner. If its masonry stack you may need some modification to exhaust into into it from a fire box insert - first is it allowed in your town, second - you may need a flexible connection into the stack - is this allowed and third you need some sort of diaphram to close off the underside of the stack - is this allowed? Its possible that having one fire box closed off from the stack while the other is open (they both share a stack right?) could be draft inhibiting situation. But Im not a fireplace expert by no means - just some items to consider to talking to your local builder or building dept about -
They don't share the chimney. It's one masonry structure with two chimney (stacks). Existing is wood burning. Will have to demo the old damper and use a flex connection to get around the smoke shelf. Plan to reline the old chimney with insulated SST. All allowed per local codes and is common for fireplace install.
Not 100% sure on design. Want a flush install. A lot of inserts stick out and look like afterthoughts. I want it to look like there never was a 1960's fireplace ever there. Do want a mantle and hearth and like the "floating" look. Might change my mind though. Like I said, this is SD thinking here.
so you just have to exhaust to above the shelf and thats it? thats easy enough
aqua - curious to know what the price/ LF is for SS insul flue liner - had any estimates or do it yourself?
I like both of those, aqua, and I'm sure they are 1. really well made and 2. not cheap. Good for you going the actual wood flame route!
I'm planning to do the same but! we have a two-sided fireplace, and I don't know of any two-sided inserts. For the moment, since winter is coming and I love the idea of using wood not gas to heat the house, we're buying some fairly inexpensive fireplace screens that will close out drafts when not in use. The problem with open fireplaces is they suck heat right out - my hope is that the two-sided fireplace, in the middle of the room, will let the brick heat up and retain that heat then radiate it to the room through the evening. The inexpensive screens are a trial run of this idea.
WOuld love to see your existing condition and what your design for the surround of the new stoves is.
Don't know if this helps, but 3 years ago we had 15lf of 12" round duct inserted and the "smoke chamber parged" for $700. No idea if the flue liner was insulated or not...
thanks LB - Im keeping a database of costs - everytime I come accross one I write it down
Evilp - The dealers I've talked to said only use the heatilator brand liner which they sell a relining kit for around $600. Said that does a 15' run and is SST. Seems in-line with the price LB stated. Looked at some of local home centers and they are selling galv chimney liner for about 1/3 the price or less. Probably would work but something is telling me not to cut corners when dealing with fire.
LB - I'll get photos up soon as I can remember my flickr password. Nothing beats a real wood fire. One dealer was trying to push me that way and I told him if that's what I wanted I'd put a window on my furnace. Good luck with your 2 sided fireplace. I saw some new fireplace units for corner/2 side installs, but no inserts. There seems to be quite a few holes in the fireplace market someone could exploit.
Cost wise the Wittus unit is $2800 and still am waiting for the price on the Morso. Throw in the chimney liner and other prep work and I'm looking at a good chunk of change. One of the primary reasons for this being a DIY job. Also heard that the "pros" usually do sloppy work (paid hourly) while a DIY'er can do equally good if proper research and care is taken.
Im still confused Aqua - you do or do not need a fire break or diaphram at the underside of the stack - Im reading the manual pdf from the website and they call for a "fire break"; but its really just a diagram
For a Wittus, $2800 is reasonable. I used one for a client, but a freestanding one that was about $5k, and it is a beautifully designed and fabricated piece of work.
evilp - I'm not sure I understand your question. Are you referring to fire stops which much be at the chimney where it passes through floors or roof structure? When relining an old chimney you typically tear out the old flue damper and put in place a metal plate to close off the space between the old chimney and the new liner.
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