Also, on a serious note: sometimes it's too wet for the type of chipboard, basswood, etc. that you're using it on. This can make it warp so test it out first before applying it to your model.
i have actually done this, before and it looked sweet!,
tips:
1) sand the surface or and on material before you apply the bondo, you dont want to use large quantities of bondo to fill gaps because it will get hot and cause you problems (could crack because the large quantity will cause it to get hot a cure too fast)
2) wait, you cant give this stuff too much time, the longer you wait the harder it gets, and the better sand / paint job you will get
3) sand sand sand, you can make this stuff really smooth, use some fine grade sand paper at the end and consider wet sanding (if you can)
4) bondo works best if your going for a smooth surface, if your trying to do texture, i think its kind of a pain in the ass, brittle and not easy to work with or change after the fact.
5) consider getting a really good paint job, when i did this, i did actually take it to a auto body place similar to macco, and they painted for me for about 45 bucks, which included a primer layer a few layers of paint and finally a clear coat, i wouldnt paint it with a regular old spray can because with such a smooth surface the rough spray of a standard nozzel is going to show, you need a really fine spray that you really only get using an air compressor and a paint gun.
it ended up looking sweet, and was a very nice contrast to the model, which isnt always appropraite but it worked out well for my project because it was a prefab design and i really wanted it to be set apart from the base.
you can also get a really sweet finish that has some reflective qualities, which is kind of a sweet effect, just make sure it doesnt make your model look like junk sitting on top of a sweet base.
that sounds pretty tight kanu. i dont know if i am going for that ultra slick of a surface however, bc i am going to have to put context buildings on it after finishing the terrain and i dont want them to look worn out. I think it is going to end up nice and smooth but not reflective. Im pretty excited about it. do you have any images of that model you did?
thats a website dedicated to physical model building...... the only site therefore....
good luck
fyi, dont make the bondo tooo hott...(too much hardner)... give yourself time to spread...... plus the first layer of bondo should fill the void between the layers...then skim coat after that....dont put it on too heavy...avoid heavy sanding and buildup
And you can definitely work it while it's not-yet cured. Go to any autobody supply place and get some tools - they're not expensive for what you're doing. While the bondo is still curing, you can quickly file/rasp down any high areas, without the resulting dust that happens with sanding (which you'll also need to do).
modelbuilding101 - check there. Also check out some industrial design and even autobody forums/sites. It's not hard work, but it's hard to get right and takes practice and patience.
ive been testing different methods and different mixes. I was adding acetone to thin it which works pretty well. the thing is that I am not too concerned with a super reflective surface, so im not sure than using bondo is geting me much more than using wood filler.... im still experimenting though..
BONDO
Any tips for using Bondo on an architectural model?
Don't breathe in.
Also, on a serious note: sometimes it's too wet for the type of chipboard, basswood, etc. that you're using it on. This can make it warp so test it out first before applying it to your model.
its going to be used on milled MDF
If you are painting the model - it will look fantastic...if your not...it will look like crap.
no matter if you are using bass wood MDF or chipboard
i will be painting it.
Is it a base for a model?
Ive used mdf for a base but never for the actual building. Seems it will split apart if the pieces get too small.
MDF absorbs paint extremely well FYI
use All Metal body filler, bondo is so MAACO
its a terrain model. you didnt hear? MAACO is in.
i have actually done this, before and it looked sweet!,
tips:
1) sand the surface or and on material before you apply the bondo, you dont want to use large quantities of bondo to fill gaps because it will get hot and cause you problems (could crack because the large quantity will cause it to get hot a cure too fast)
2) wait, you cant give this stuff too much time, the longer you wait the harder it gets, and the better sand / paint job you will get
3) sand sand sand, you can make this stuff really smooth, use some fine grade sand paper at the end and consider wet sanding (if you can)
4) bondo works best if your going for a smooth surface, if your trying to do texture, i think its kind of a pain in the ass, brittle and not easy to work with or change after the fact.
5) consider getting a really good paint job, when i did this, i did actually take it to a auto body place similar to macco, and they painted for me for about 45 bucks, which included a primer layer a few layers of paint and finally a clear coat, i wouldnt paint it with a regular old spray can because with such a smooth surface the rough spray of a standard nozzel is going to show, you need a really fine spray that you really only get using an air compressor and a paint gun.
it ended up looking sweet, and was a very nice contrast to the model, which isnt always appropraite but it worked out well for my project because it was a prefab design and i really wanted it to be set apart from the base.
you can also get a really sweet finish that has some reflective qualities, which is kind of a sweet effect, just make sure it doesnt make your model look like junk sitting on top of a sweet base.
Work fast.
that sounds pretty tight kanu. i dont know if i am going for that ultra slick of a surface however, bc i am going to have to put context buildings on it after finishing the terrain and i dont want them to look worn out. I think it is going to end up nice and smooth but not reflective. Im pretty excited about it. do you have any images of that model you did?
modelbuilding101.com
thats a website dedicated to physical model building...... the only site therefore....
good luck
fyi, dont make the bondo tooo hott...(too much hardner)... give yourself time to spread...... plus the first layer of bondo should fill the void between the layers...then skim coat after that....dont put it on too heavy...avoid heavy sanding and buildup
And you can definitely work it while it's not-yet cured. Go to any autobody supply place and get some tools - they're not expensive for what you're doing. While the bondo is still curing, you can quickly file/rasp down any high areas, without the resulting dust that happens with sanding (which you'll also need to do).
modelbuilding101 - check there. Also check out some industrial design and even autobody forums/sites. It's not hard work, but it's hard to get right and takes practice and patience.
thanks all.
ive been testing different methods and different mixes. I was adding acetone to thin it which works pretty well. the thing is that I am not too concerned with a super reflective surface, so im not sure than using bondo is geting me much more than using wood filler.... im still experimenting though..
hint: mix in fiberglass resin/hardner and create a paste/icing with it....
i visit the MB101forum more than here...fyi
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