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One Day in Boston...

Chili Davis

I will be in Boston for the AIAS Forum from December 28th thru January 2nd. My schedule is pretty full, but I left all of January 1st for my fiance and I to see Boston on our own. I plan on seeing the ICA, the John Hancock Tower, Fenway Park, a number of area firms, and W.I.T, the B.A.C. and Northeastern U on another day. Aside from those sites, given 8 hours on new years day (meaning most buildings will be closed, and I will only be viewing them from the exterior), what, in your opinion, are the important places to visit? Mainly architecturally speaking, but suggestions for lunch and dinner, and a hip joint to grab a drink are also welcome!

 
Dec 12, 06 11:26 am
myriam

Poke into Trinity Church at the base of the Hancock.

Go see the Christian Science Center on your way out to Wentworth and Northeastern. The fountains won't be on, but it's still worth a visit. You'll just have to put some imaginary water in the proper receptacles.

As for dinner and drinks, given the area you'll be in for almost all of the activities you've mentioned, I'd say just walk down Tremont Street in the South End and pick whatever place tickles your fancy. It's restaurant central in Boston.

There's a tiny bar called Bukowski's Tavern right next to the Hilton and Sheraton hotels in Boston, across the street from Hynes Convention Center. That's a great little joint and they happen to have my fave beer on tap, so I'm a fan.

My fave place to get a drink though is over in Cambridge, but it might be really difficult to get to. It's called the B-Side and it's more or less at Kendall Square... worth a hike if you have time, but if you won't be in Cambridge at all then it's probably not worth trying to find. They have *excellent* food and a really good atmosphere. Plus good drinkies.

Dec 12, 06 12:06 pm  · 
 · 
myriam

Also, go to see Saarinen's MIT Chapel.

Why aren't you gonna visit MIT? Why Wentworth, BAC, and Northeastern? Just out of random curiosity. You should also check out the GSD, the studios are in a very interesting building. A couple steps away is a large Corbusier building. Can't miss that!

Dec 12, 06 12:08 pm  · 
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Chili Davis

Wentworth, BAC, and Northeastern are the host chapters, so I will spend an afternoon visiting them. I just received an email that the local firm tours have been cancelled, so that frees up my Saturday afternoon as well. I may use that time to visit MIT and GSD. Thanks for the suggestions, myriam.

Dec 12, 06 12:13 pm  · 
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myriam

Ahhh. Also, congrats on the fiancée, I caught that. :)

Dec 12, 06 12:15 pm  · 
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Chili Davis

Thank you!

Dec 12, 06 12:19 pm  · 
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treekiller

the best mummies this side of the pond are at the MFA, while in that hood also check out the Gardner across the street and around the corner from the Pei wing. (this is all a few blocks from Northeastern)

If you have a car, check out the gropius house in (lincoln?) and there is a great sculpter garden near by (decordova? or brandeis?)

-we want more details about you popping the big q!

Dec 12, 06 12:30 pm  · 
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arktect

Bukowskis is good, but if I had one day and one day only in Boston, I'd head to the North End for a little italian take-out place called Dinos on Salem street. I also agree with myriam, go see the carpenter center and mit.

Dec 12, 06 12:30 pm  · 
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brian buchalski

if, by chance, you get stuck in beacon hill i'd suggest 75 chestnut street

Dec 12, 06 12:55 pm  · 
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fulcrum

you should check out Boston Public Library in Allston by Machado-Silvetti.
It's gonna be pretty cold...

Dec 12, 06 1:13 pm  · 
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Chili Davis

Here's what I'm thinking...

With Saturday afternoon now free, we can spend a good deal of time at the ICA (She is an artist, anyway). Monday we'll go see MIT and Harvard, the Public Library and Hancock Tower, and the Big Dig. If time permits, I want to see the Genzyme Center as well. Are there any places I can find a map of Boston with architecturally significant places indicated?

Dec 12, 06 1:26 pm  · 
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mdler
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ks7oTR7rzBg
Dec 12, 06 1:29 pm  · 
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larslarson

myriam.

if you were at the b-sides often then i've probably seen you once
or twice...i drank there often from 99-2003 or thereabouts. and
i go back every time i go up to boston.

also i completely second the chapel at mit. it's one of my favorites, if
not the favorite, in boston. but you have to get inside to really
appreciate it.

chili,

as far as bars..there's been a whole thread on this already at
some point...but i'm not sure which one. maybe the beantown
meetup thread?

as far as the sculpture park near gropius' house..it's the decordova.
but if you only have a couple days in boston i don't think you should
spend it trying to find it. it's a really nice house...but you won't
be able to get a tour and that's the main reason for going..the
interiors. i lived in boston for seven years post college and i only
got out there once.

Dec 12, 06 1:33 pm  · 
 · 
myriam

There's probably one of those "city packs" for Boston. It's small though so you shouldn't have too much trouble finding things. You won't be able to see the Allston Public Library however unless you have a car or are willing to venture onto the bus system. It's kind of out of your way. The Boston Public Library in Copley is worth a visit, however--start at the old part, with the entrance on Copley Sq across from Trinity, and see if you can actually figure out how to get to the "new" (1970s) addition without circling around outside! Ha! Should be a fascinating study of how not to expand a library!

As for the Big Dig, you'll see it in your cab right from the airport to the host schools. There's nothing really to see. It's a series of tunnels. It's really only striking to people who have seen/lived with the mess of roads it used to be, and the construction process which was incredible in terms of logistics as lars mentioned.

What *is* nice about the big dig is walking from government center across to the North End, which everyone always loves to do and is a great way to experience downtown, and that way you'll be walking where the elevated freeway USED to be, and on the TOP of the big dig. Then you can reward yourself with italian pastries and gelato. Much better way to "see" the big dig!

Dec 12, 06 1:36 pm  · 
 · 
myriam

Why don't you post your intinerary once you've got it, and we'll tell you where to get off the T to see everything. Might be easier than trying to go by a map. I'm dead serious. You dont' want to leave Boston navigation to chance if you only have one day.

Dec 12, 06 1:37 pm  · 
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myriam

Also, go ahead and spring for a cab ride from the airport to begin with--don't bother trying to take the T from the airport, it's really stupidly done and wastes an hour. The cab ride is valuable to help you get a vantage of the city and get your bearings, because otherwise there isn't really a good point at which to sort of... take in the city as a whole and understand how it goes together. Hard to explain what I mean.

Dec 12, 06 1:39 pm  · 
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Chili Davis

Actually I'll be driving into Boston and parking at the hotel for the week. We're staying at the Sheraton. Here is my schedule as it stands right now...


Friday, Dec. 29
All day hands-on graphic and rendering workshop, followed by a lecture by Stephen Kieran, FAIA, Architect and Author, Principal, KieranTimberlake, Philadelphia, PA

Saturday, Dec. 30
Fenway Park Tour in the morning followed by a visit to the ICA in the afternoon. Lecture by Jane Weinzapfel, FAIA, Principal, Leers Weinzapfel, 2007 AIA Firm of the Year Award, Boston, MA

Sunday, Dec. 31
Back Bay photowalk in the morning followed by a trip to W.I.T., B.A.C., and Northeastern in the afternoon. Lecture by Ted Landsmark, MEvD, JD, D.A (Hon), PhD, President, Boston Architectural College, Recipient of the 2006 Whitney M. Young Jr. Award, Boston, MA

Monday, Jan. 1
Visit M.I.T. Campus (Baker House, "Sponge of Knowledge," Simons Hall, Stata Center, M.I.T. Chapel) and the Genzyme Center, then head to Harvard (Carpenter Center and GSD) and possibly the Allston Public Library. Lecture by Brian Healy, AIA, Accomplished Architect and Educator, Principal, Brian Healy Architects, Boston, MA


Pretty packed schedule but it should be an exciting and educational 4 days. I don't plan on driving anywhere. The ICA is within walking distance and travel to the tours is provided. I just need to get from the hotel to M.I.T. to Harvard to Allston and back on Monday, with stops in between for food and liquor!

Dec 12, 06 1:57 pm  · 
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FrankLloydMike

Definitely see the MIT Chapel. I still think it's probably the best building in Boston and right across Mass Ave (hidden a bit, but easy enough to find) from the main building at MIT. I'd also suggest going to the Gardner Museum over the MFA if you only have time for one. The MFA has more stuff, sure, but it's really just your basic (though very good) art museum. The Gardner is something else and right across a small park from Wentworth. I'm sure if you ask anyone there they'll be able to tell you where it is. Also while you're at Wentworth and looking for a good bite to eat and a drink, I'd recommend the Squealing Pig on Smith Street, just off Huntington Ave. It's easily my favorite bar in Brigham Circle even though they're making a few changes to it that I'd rather go without. From Wentworth, just head down Huntington away from the city about five minutes. Its on the same side as Wentworth between the Longwood and Brigham Circle T stops. It's a small one-story building behind a brick building with copper-roofed red turrets on the corner of Huntington and Smith. The roast turkey sandwich is killer and the beer selection is great. Even though I go to Wentworth and actually think we've got some pretty stellar studios, check out the GSD studios. The ICA is incredible, too, especially for Boston. I hope you have fun.

Dec 12, 06 1:59 pm  · 
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myriam

Ok, if you're going to be on Harvard's campus and have some free time to see the Allston Public Library, here's how to do it:

Walk back to Harvard Sq. and get on the #66 bus, will cost you $1. It is up the street from Harvard Sq itself, you will have to ask directions. If you go to the news kiosk in the middle of the square they will point you in the right direction.

The 66 bus takes you across the river to Allston, through Harvard's Allston campus, and drives straight past the Allston Public Library. Ask the (probably mean and/or crazy) bus driver where to get off in advance. Then you can either pick the bus back up when you're done w/ the library and stay on it until you get to Beacon St. stop in the heart of Brookline, where, if you want, you can get a great dinner and enjoy one of the most vibrant and pretty neighborhoods of Boston. From Beacon St./ Harvard St. intersection (known as "Coolidge Corner") you can take the green C line T back into town and straight to your hotel at Hynes Convention Center stop.

The best sushi restaurant I've ever been to is at that intersection. Also very very good "mexican" restuarant for the cheapest food you will manage to eat in Boston.

Alternatively, after finishing up at the Allston Public Library you can walk up Harvard St. through Allston and pick up the green B line T at the intersection of Harvard St. and Commonwealth Ave. ("Comm Ave"). Some people will tell you that Allston is vibrant. I find it kind of gross, but interesting.

I second FLM's Squealing Pig recommendation. We met there for the Boston Archinect meetup and it was totally as advertised.

If you go to the mbta website, you can download a pdf of their "System Map". This is the only map I could EVER find of Boston that showed BOTH streets AND public transit stops. (What an idea!) Their website is clunky so don't give up if the map download isn't immediately apparent.

Good luck... I still wouldn't miss Copley Sq./Newbury St. area since you'll be only about 4 blocks from it all in your hotel. If you have nighttime free time that area is beautifully lit up at night. The Boston Public Gardens & Boston Common are very nice and romantic at sunset, too. (There's an incredible gold dome on the top of the Statehouse.)

If you manage to take the red line T out to Cambridge at sunset you'll see the last rays of sun light up the Hancock tower and turn the river silver. Very pretty. The hancock tower, because of the way it's angled, turns inverse shades of color... hard to describe but beautiful.

Dec 12, 06 2:17 pm  · 
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myriam

Oh, and the MFA is a complete rip-off. Go to the Gardner.

Dec 12, 06 2:18 pm  · 
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FrankLloydMike

thanks for those directions, myriam. I'm a bit ashamed to admit that I've never been to the Allston library.

Dec 12, 06 2:22 pm  · 
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myriam

It's a solid, pleasing design. I like it a lot. Not the biggest envelope-pusher, but one of its charms is how well it works! You *want* to sit and read. The grounds are really some of the best parts. They did a great job integrating the interior and exterior spaces. You'll see what I mean when you get there.

Come to think of it, Chili, if you have a car, you could see the Allston Public Library that way--they have a free (but small) parking lot behind the Library. So if you get pressed for time, that's always an option. Parking lots are few and farrrrr between in Boston.

Dec 12, 06 2:27 pm  · 
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treekiller

the mummies are the only reason to go to the mfa- a much better collection then the met's and much cheaper then flying to cairo or london. and egypt collection is part of the normal admission, so compared to the rip-off $$$ to see that small king tut showa year ago, the mfa is a bargain.

PS check out the NE aquarium. it was the first 'modern' fish museum, worth an hour to wander down the concrete spiral (think kahn's deca meets the guggenheim) and oh so 1970's brutalist that it will make you smile. that wannabe gehry addition in front can be skipped.

Dec 12, 06 2:49 pm  · 
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holz.box

so i just heard that the detailing of the ICA is shit. can anyone verify?

second that allston library, the tree court is great in early fall, when it's still crisp.

if it is raining, the MIT chapel will be even more of a treat.

Dec 12, 06 3:11 pm  · 
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Chili Davis

TK - Popped the big Q on November 12th after a seven course meal and a carriage ride, but before the hot tub and champaigne. A date hasn't been set yet, but it will be sometime in the spring of 2008.

Dec 12, 06 4:10 pm  · 
 · 
treekiller

awwwww- how sweet, con grats!!!
back when the tk popped the Q to ms. tk, wish that grad school would have allowed spending the $$$ to do it with such class and aplome.

Did StoSS do the landscape at the Alstone Library or is that at city hall?

Dec 12, 06 4:39 pm  · 
 · 
holz.box

the landscape architect for the alson branch was richard burck associates (somerville). he's collaborated on a few projects with m+s

the eco-demonstration project by city hall was SToSS

Dec 12, 06 5:54 pm  · 
 · 
THEaquino

The detailing at Stata is shit. The Goody Clancey building right across the street is much better. So is the Pei at MIT building. And if you can/want, sneak into Holl's building right down the street from Stata, the interiors are great. Also, the building with the big overhang next to the Gensyme Building is one fo my favorite buildings in the area. Anyone know who did it?

If you're around Copley and hungry, try the Atlantic Fish Company. It's pretty spendy, but the chowder is awesome and cheap.There's also a place called Artu. There's one on Prince st. in the North End and Charles st. in Beacon Hill. I also have to recommend Emma's in Kendall Sqaure (MIT) and Cambridge 1 in Harvard Square. Two totally different kinds of pizza, but both are great.

Any other Beantowners loving the "winter"? I'm from CA, so this is great.

Dec 12, 06 6:17 pm  · 
 · 
archtopus

My plans for Boston:

Dec 29: make speech
Dec 30: pass out stickers
Dec 31: shake hands
Jan 1: kiss babies

I'll try to fit the ICA in there somewhere. Fortunately, I lived in the city for 6 months, so I've seem most of the other stuff. : )

Jason, you have to make to the North End also. It's a beautifully vibrant, dense neighborhood, much applauded by Jane Jacobs. Make a stop at Mike's Pastry for a cannoli while you're there. I think it's along the Freedom Trail, too, which runs through downtown, across the Big Dig and up to Beacon Hill.

Dec 12, 06 6:20 pm  · 
 · 
snooker

Trinty Church has just completed a major restoration...so it might be a grand place to visit. Which is just next door to the John Handcock,
and the Boston Public Library. They are all in Copley Square. Then you have Pei's Christian Science Complex....a must see, but then again I'm from the old school. Your lady will enjoy the shopping on Newbury Street....just don't let her take your mastercard. Just be sure you get some of those jells for your shoes....cause your in for alot of walking....and parking a car can be a pain in the ass...as can be the Boston Drivers.

Dec 12, 06 7:09 pm  · 
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THEaquino

Ooops...when I said "the Pei building", I meant The Weisner building specifically (building E15, I think).

Dec 12, 06 7:36 pm  · 
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Katze

Here are a few more food / drink ideas:

North End –
Pizzeria Regina - You really have to go here; ask for the pizza well done
Mama Maria's upscale, $$$$

Copley Square / Newbury St. Area -
Turner Fisheries Bar or Legal Sea Food for Chowder
Jaffa's - Mediterranean food
Poor House – cheap eats and drinks on Boylston St.

Downtown Crossing / Beacon Hill -
The Paramount (best kept secret) – on Charles Street
Tacos – El Pelon Taqueria on Peterborough St.
Drinks – Foley's (authentic Irish dive bar)

Cambridge -
East coast grill – the best!! Central Square T stop, then a 10-15 min. walk

Dec 12, 06 8:43 pm  · 
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fulcrum

you gotta try lobster roll for lunch. James Hook & Company
It not fancy at all (no place to sit), but they have the best lobster roll I've ever had.

Dec 12, 06 9:29 pm  · 
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fulcrum
Federal Reserve Bank of Boston

by Stubbins & Associates

Dec 12, 06 10:58 pm  · 
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FrankLloydMike

second Jaffa. I almost forgot about that place, but is great

Dec 12, 06 11:47 pm  · 
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snooker

You might want to go see Boston City Hall before the City sells the site to a developer. I was reading this morning it is up for sale for $300,000,000.00. I'm sure this building will not survive a developers dream for the site.

Dec 13, 06 7:21 am  · 
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bucku

ICA again
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ipk/

Dec 20, 06 2:03 pm  · 
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Chili Davis

Looks crowded.

Here's an update on my trip... We decided to fly. Between gas and parking, we could fly for about $20 more. So we get into Boston Thursday morning and leave Tuesday evening. That gives us almost an extra day, so I can add a few items to my intinerary, so keep the suggestions coming!

Dec 20, 06 2:29 pm  · 
 · 
FrankLloydMike

I'm not going to the AIAS Forum because of money, which is also why I'm not actually a member of AIAS, but what goes on at the Forum exactly anyway? I'm also sorry about the incredibly bad logo this year, which is a real shame especially compared to the very nice logo someone came up with for the Wentworth architecture clubs and t-shirts (which you can see on the Student Resource Room in the Wentworth studios if you're already there).

Dec 20, 06 2:38 pm  · 
 · 
Chili Davis

Lectures, tours, workshops, speaches, elections, presentations, networking, socializing, competitions, sight seeing... all kinds of fun stuff. This is actually the first time I will be attending Forum.

I'm not sure who did the logo. It could be better, but I don't mind it. It's fairly simple but I don't think complexity is neccessary for something like this. There is a more detailed graphic and more information about the event here.

Dec 20, 06 2:47 pm  · 
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myriam

Chili, having recently driven from Boston to Chicago, let me be the first to congratulate you on a very wise desicion. That is one looong, shitty car ride. Nobody needs to see Buffalo. Ever. Let alone on New Year's Eve. Trust me on this. Flying is the way to go.

Dec 20, 06 3:02 pm  · 
 · 
cln1

for some good entertainment at night, go to the comedy connection in faneuil hall - call the monday before for tix, always have good comics, you can then stumble out into the surrounding area where there are dozens upon dozens of great bars and clubs.

i would not suggest walking to the ICA - take a cab, save your feet for walking down newberry street and around harvard square.

def. go into trinity church, and boston public library, especially the original section.

in the back bay - newberry and boylston street, area around the BAC, there are many many restaurants and bars, you really cant go wrong with any of them.

Davio's is a nice fancy restaurant not far from your hotel, expensive though.

there is another nice itallian restaraunt right off to the side of copley square (heading towards newberry) cant think of the name right now,

but if you are in the mood for itallian food - def. go to the north end - dont bother with trying to find a specific place in the north end, just walk in, get lost in the maze, walk around some more, then pick a place, best itallian food you will ever have. dinner in north end, walk around quincy market, comedy show, then any bar in the area is a good date night - all those are close by.

buildings, ditto on what everyone else has said.
gardner museum - right behind WIT
ICA
MIT chapel
Corbu
Christian Science Center

Robert Campbell once wrote that walking down Mt. Vernon Street towards ____ park is an experience like no other city - Mt. Vernon Street is in the Beacon Hill area, to the side of boston common.

go to bsa.org
boston society of architects
they may have the map you requested.

if you are taking the 'T'
you will most likely be on the green line while traveling north/south in the city and the red line to cambridge. important to remember, INBOUND is always towards the government center stop - doesnt matter if you are north, south, east west

wish i could type more, sorry about jumping all around but the boss is looking over my shoulder



Dec 20, 06 4:11 pm  · 
 · 
myriam

hmm, i guess i'm the only person who thinks the north end restaurants are overrated. i've had some of the worst italian food ever, there.

Dec 20, 06 4:18 pm  · 
 · 
treekiller

on the nautical side-

-old iron sides/uss constitution in the navy yard
-georges island park (don't know if the ferry is running in the winter)
-the best wharfs are in the north end, check out the granite framed warehouses, a unique boston architype. inside you'll also find some of the thickest timbers 3'x'3 and up from the first clearcutting of america - more of these can be found in the warehouse along the fort point channel/fan pier area.
-Tea Party Museum (ft. point channel) & adjacent milk bottle/computer museum/childrens museum.

best chowder (help me out)- anthony's pier 4? legal seafood?

and the forgotten Kennedy Library (Pei's first triangle building) with a great view of the harbor (or has this been blocked by recent development) in south boston at UMass

Dec 20, 06 4:47 pm  · 
 · 
cln1

whoops

www.architects.org
is the BSA website


myriam - was this north end tragedy an isolated experience? I do not proclaim to be an expert on the area, I have only eaten there about 10 times and not since 2000. Each time it was better than my Italian grandmother's cooking.

maybe the north end trick is to go to the hole in the wall places and not the bigger, more popular ones...?

Dec 20, 06 5:07 pm  · 
 · 
Katze

cln1 – there is another nice itallian restaraunt right off to the side of copley square – is it Pappa Razzi possibly??

I agree with Cln about the north end - Myriam, do you remember the names of the places you went? There are some great and not so great ones...maybe you just hit the bad ones?

Dec 20, 06 6:30 pm  · 
 · 
myriam

I felt it was pretty packed with touristy places that aren't actually that good. Maybe I needed a local recommendation. I went a bunch of times with friends while living there and generally felt that the experience and food did not live up to a night out in, say, the south end or cambridge.

However, the ambience is very urban and everything jane jacobs would love. The people who live there are awesome and the gelato shops (with attendent old man in lawn chairs sitting outside in the street) can't be beat.

Also, if you happen to walk through on any one of the Saint's days, you get to see a parade!! VERY cool and locals-only. I like the area a lot--I just don't like eating dinner there. Or Mike's Pastries, I don't like them either.

I'm just cantankerous. Don't mind old myriam.

Dec 20, 06 6:38 pm  · 
 · 
Katze

Yeah, sounds like you experienced a lot of the lousy touristy places. When I get a chance, I'll pull together a list of recommendations.

Dec 20, 06 7:33 pm  · 
 · 

the north end is better then mulberry street.

Dec 20, 06 8:11 pm  · 
 · 
spaghetti

something i noticed about boston a month or two ago when i was there...

there is a large construction of an addition (?) to an existing building visible from the mass pike driving into Boston from the west. Basically, it looks like a giant bar protruding or piercing an existing building. Does anybody know anything about that project?

Dec 20, 06 11:22 pm  · 
 · 
cln1

katze - yes! pappa razzi is the place i was thinking of.


spaghetti - the building off the side of the highway is the new home (or an addition) of wgbh a local t.v. channel. as the work has progressed it has become less impressive. I saw the building when it first started and the moments were extremely violent.

i dont have picture, nor will i be in the city anytime soon, but for an explaination...

there are two spec office buildings separated by a 50' wide public road in Brighton, which is just outside of the city. from the looks of it each building has a generous setback making the distance between them even greater. the buildings are not parallel, nor aligned. - a three story volume is extruded from the building furthest from the highway (volume is approx 50-60 feet wide) and is constructed as a mega-truss, where all three floors exist within the depth of the truss... the volume meets building 'b' (closest to the highway) and clips the corner of the building passing through it, but only about 1/3 to 1/4 of the volume hits building 'b'

the greatest moment was when they first erected the steel and the eifs panels were hanging off building 'b' as if the volume literally smashed through it.

the sadest moment was when an exterior column was added to the end of the volume, so a portion of the volumes load is absorbed in building 'b' the rest onto this column - would have been much better if the entire load was taken through building 'b'

oh yeah - this occurs 6-8 stories above grade on a building that is approx 10-12 stories tall.

one thing that is decent is the architects removed the eifs walls underneath the portion of building 'b' and installed a sliver of glass, which to me becomes a recognition of the volumes movement from building 'a' through building 'b'

i have no clue who the architects are... probably one of the 10-15 larger boston firms

Dec 21, 06 12:56 am  · 
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