show us a picture of your model and then maybe we can assess!

a black backdrop (curtain, sheet, whatever) is easier than photoshopping (also saves time).

i tend to prefer natural light (the sun) but this is a preference with my current camera.

some combination of black backdrop and photoshop is common, but be sure that is the story you want to tell with your model. that sort of photograph implies object building. that's fine as long as its a great object building, but that's not always what you want to show. alternatively you can photograph the model where you put the camera in the model if you want the point of view to be more human scale. or if you've spent a lot of effort on the detail and craft of the model you may want to only photograph details from the model (how materials are joined or juxtaposed). quite honestly the black background model shot is a bit of a one liner. unless its a truly exceptional model, they start to all look the same. try to design the narrative you are telling in your photographs, and i think you will have a more compelling piece for your portfolio.

Well I haven't taken any pictures yet as I am looking for the best way or I would post some, I mean it is just a model of a house it is nothing spectacular but coming from a non architecture background I think it is worthy of being in my portfolio and would show creativity and interest. Jafidler is right though, almost all models I see have a black background so I guess maybe I should think of something outside the box.

black felt works best

You could photoshop the model into a "scene" that you create.

black felt is great because you don't get a lot of reflection. more importantly, refrain from using the phrase "outside (of) the box." it's really awful, but i digress.

black backgrounds and white backgrounds work well.... take pics outside around 2-4pm so the sun isn't directly above you, you will get better shadows.

Wait til the solstice.
Kill a newborn calf.

There's nothing wrong with the black background.
It says here's the kickass model I made and I would like you to look at it.

Unless of course yr trying to say something else.

You can photoshop it pretty well but even if you use photoshop... you're going to have to take a photo of the model on a solid color background to be able to manipulate it anyways (think greenscreening).

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2112/2255974919_ac9eb6c32f.jpg

Buy some of these for lighting. They only cost 5 bucks a piece.

Use incandescent (I prefer halogen).

Clear bulbs for exception details. White coated for a softer shadow.

Also, crumple up tin foil really well and then take it apart and glue it onto cardboard. This makes for a good and cheap bounce light.

Also, never use a flash for this kind of photography.

"Unicorn Slaughter" where would you buy lights like the one you posted?

The hardware store.

They're great cheater lights for photography because they can do a good job as any professional light can... the big difference being here that they're like 1/20th the price.

Bayco 5-1/2" Clamp Light with Aluminum Reflector
Item #: 203198 | Model #: FL-200NPDQ12
$6.48
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?productId=3122289

Bayco 8-1/2" Clamp Light with Aluminum Reflector
Item #: 203213 | Model #: FL-300NPDQ12
$7.48
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?productId=3122291

Bayco 10-1/2" Brooder Clamp Light
Item #: 203219 | Model #: FL-302NPDQ8
$12.94
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?productId=3122295

I like to use these to get really crisp studio images
http://www.capitalelectricalsupply.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BC55CP19-HAL-CL-120V

as the square shape keeps distortions to a minimum from the filament (makes it easier to shoot photos and easier to filter with something-- use caution! these light bulbs are super dangerous).

I mean there are better clear halogens out there but i like these because they use a standard socket!

http://www.amazon.com/Philips-134239-100G25-Decor-Globe/dp/B002CYZ3JK
These are my favorites for really luscious soft lighting.

http://www.amazon.com/73439-45-Watt-Reveal-Floodlight-Light/dp/B000089DCC/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_a
These are my favorite floods. Change wattage when necessary.

Also.... for those cool "fashion" highlights... use standard fluorescent tubes in the brightest white possible and place them overhead.

That's what gives you those "highlight lines."

awesome, thanks for the help!

I prefer to shot models outside in natural sunlight. Use a black felt backdrop. If you are not happy with the black background you can always photoshop it with a sky or if with a photo of the site if the model is for a project that is site specific.

Taking pictures of the model as an object from afar is pretty straight forward in terms of camera settings - you might not need to step down the camera too much to get it all in focus.

As for close-ups or in-model shots, the risk is that depth of field becomes very shallow and makes it very obvious that it is a model you are looking at.

When I take pictures of models i tend to use two different methods, and will shortly evaluate a third:

1. Use a point-and-shoot where you can control aperture. This works well in smaller models, where a bigger camera might have a hard time to reach. Set the aperture as small as possible (the higher the number the smaller the aprture) - depth of field will most of the time be a bigger worry than diffraction.

2. A DSLR with an ultra ultra wide lens, set to a small aperture. Low focal length + small aperture = very deep depth of field. Typically my best picture are taken in this way - the depth of field can be extreme. The only drawback is that the lens might not focus close enough.

To try:
3. I recently ordered a tilt lens to see how the Scheimpflug can be used to place depth of field in model close-ups. Should be interesting.

some examples













the backgrounds were cropped, but the idea was to make sure the lighting/focus was good. i had a black backdrop also so it helped in cropping and making the black a solid