I've decided to install windows into a partition wall that constitutes the the sleeping area in my loft, which runs about 90' from the front to back of my unit.
Unfortunately there is no natural light, so I would like to place three windows, which, at the very least will let in ambient light from the larger living space.
I've drawn up some loose iterations of what I would like to do.
if you have steel studs you will probably need to run a 2x4 inside of them to add some rigidity. rough opening should be 1/2"-1" total if you don't feel like shimming alot.
remove the drywall first then us metal snips or a sawzall to take the studs out. look out for any hidden electrical wires also before you use a saw
cut the sheet rock first and remove, this way you don't fuck everything up with a sawzaw.
16' tall means, they should in theory be heavy gauge, so go with 2x8's doubled up as headers, unless of course this is a fire rated partition, then go with mtl c-joist at 8".
salvaged plate glass? good luck. my guess is the wall is barely structurally sound as it is and now you're going to poke holes and put plate glass in, don't be suprised with the glass cracks, hell even shatters when your neighbor has a parth and someone leans on the wall.
call an architect? so at least they'll take the liability.
I'm not sure this is the site you want to be on for a technical question. Try a construction site, say the Journal of Light Construction for instance jlconline.com. Go to forum, rough framing for expert advice.
You should find a carpenter to at least advise you on this project. This is sort of like trying to get online with the AMA to figure out how to perform an appendectomy. A doctor would really need to see the patient first.
In any case, you need to know how the wall has been constructed, and if there is any mechanical or electrical in the space you're trying to remodel. You will in all likelyhood have to remove the sheetrock from floor to ceiling to install the RSO, which includes King studs, jack studs, cripple studs, as well as a header and sill. I doubt the wall in question is load bearing, but you should definitely figure that out first.
Signed - former contractor/carpenter, now MArch Grad.
Jul 19, 09 11:16 am ·
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construction help: cutting/framing windows in loft
I've decided to install windows into a partition wall that constitutes the the sleeping area in my loft, which runs about 90' from the front to back of my unit.
Unfortunately there is no natural light, so I would like to place three windows, which, at the very least will let in ambient light from the larger living space.
I've drawn up some loose iterations of what I would like to do.
i've looked at this website, but i'm unsure if the method is the same for the walls i'm dealing with.
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/window/new/ro_framing.htm
does anyone have experience with installing windows in an interior space? The walls have steel studs, and are insulated.
I plan to use windows that are about 4x4'.
How large of an opening should I cut?
Is there anything I should take into consideration, particularly when it comes to supporting the studs?
many thanks!
http://www.ehow.com/how_5064900_install-window-steel-stud-frame.html
the windows should come with a rough opening dimension, build your opening to this size.
how high is the partition and how close will the windows be? how think of mtl studs and gauge? this is important.
Windows, like all openings, are technically demanding.
Truth of the matter, most architects couldn't put in a window if you gave them all weekend.
hahhahaa........
that's sand K.J. especially when most suburban vinyl clad windows come with flanges that fit right over the rough opening, installl in hole and nail.
i had planned to fit it with salvaged plate glass windows.
the floor to ceiling wall is 16' tall. unsure of the gauge for the steel.
i'm tempted to use a jig-saw to cut out the dimensions of the window, including a frame (probably with pine strapping).
My reservation in doing this, it that I don't want the wall to loose support (if that could become an issue)
if you have steel studs you will probably need to run a 2x4 inside of them to add some rigidity. rough opening should be 1/2"-1" total if you don't feel like shimming alot.
remove the drywall first then us metal snips or a sawzall to take the studs out. look out for any hidden electrical wires also before you use a saw
cut the sheet rock first and remove, this way you don't fuck everything up with a sawzaw.
16' tall means, they should in theory be heavy gauge, so go with 2x8's doubled up as headers, unless of course this is a fire rated partition, then go with mtl c-joist at 8".
salvaged plate glass? good luck. my guess is the wall is barely structurally sound as it is and now you're going to poke holes and put plate glass in, don't be suprised with the glass cracks, hell even shatters when your neighbor has a parth and someone leans on the wall.
call an architect? so at least they'll take the liability.
I'm not sure this is the site you want to be on for a technical question. Try a construction site, say the Journal of Light Construction for instance jlconline.com. Go to forum, rough framing for expert advice.
sgs23 -- that is an excellent source.
thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions.
we'll see what happens some weekend, when I get around to actually doing this!
haha this is funny. most people are installing lofts behind their windows!
You should find a carpenter to at least advise you on this project. This is sort of like trying to get online with the AMA to figure out how to perform an appendectomy. A doctor would really need to see the patient first.
In any case, you need to know how the wall has been constructed, and if there is any mechanical or electrical in the space you're trying to remodel. You will in all likelyhood have to remove the sheetrock from floor to ceiling to install the RSO, which includes King studs, jack studs, cripple studs, as well as a header and sill. I doubt the wall in question is load bearing, but you should definitely figure that out first.
Signed - former contractor/carpenter, now MArch Grad.
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