Can anyone offer advice on adding strength to a 3d print? I've worked in an office where we paint resin on the model and bake it in an industrial oven and I've dripped super glue all over my latest model. I would rather do neither because a.) I no longer have access to the equipment at my previous employer's office and b.) the mixture of super glue and Z-corp powder is highly toxic.
We use a spray polyurethane. Buy a semi-gloss generic brand like Ace. Use multiple coats (three should suffice) but don't build the urethane up too fast otherwise it will turn yellow. It's not as strong as the epoxy suggestions mentioned above but is much easier and less messy.
If you go with an epoxy system, definitely try the west systems. If you are worried about toxic fumes, it's best to stay away from polyester resins. And definitely read about and test the stuff before using it. Mixing too much at one time can create enough heat for spontaneous combustion.
I suggest buying a large bottle of zap-a-gap and drizzle half of the bottle onto your model until it becomes a giant block of solid toxicity. Then, take the other half bottle, dump it into a medium size paper bag, and inhale deeply. The fumes are going to get into your system anyways, so you might as well build up tolerance as quickly and directly as possible.
Only a suggestion when so much efford are used anyway. Then why not use the model as what it is a model, use the model to make a mold, remove the model from the mold and cast in as strong material you want.
There are several modern moulding material that can unite a rubber form fit for 100's of cast, Cast in whatever hardening substance you want. Used it for particular ; casts in polyester from live objects --- then when that is reasoable cheap in materials, how fine a cast, and how strong do you think, a silicone rubber form will be ?? do you know how rugid any rubber form of everything can be, When covered with rubber, you stabilise the rubber form to ensure shape, A cast is the way to go, I think it is dentist form rubber, most ecpensive perhaps, but how long has you been asking everyone else what you do --- this even stick to your fingers,. What's basicly wrong, is that the 3D buildup, is newer a house, --- the right way is offcaurse, to see it in another way. A model in the wrong material, wrong color, nothing inside, is not the thing, but more important, is not the tool to have the design manufactored.
That you can also just try in small scale, -- realy why is those hand carved models still what it is about, make everything but a 3D model, am I realy the only who rather see some better visions.
there are a few reasons why i chose to 3d print this model rather than casting - most importantly, the materiality of the 3d print looks closest to concrete in the images i've taken on the inside. i plan to attach laminated plexi to the model - so the print should not be viewed as the entire building...it's only the concrete structure on the interior.
i've attached some links to the model...it's at 1/8" scale so it's quite large. the orientation in each one is not correct - the columns will be pointing upward ;). take note of the cracking already happening in the first image.
wax:
so the wax dipper is up and running...does anyone know offhand if you can still glue these 3d printed wax pieces together?
zap: i think the model is too large to zap. i would be overkill, although i may zap the columns which may be too weak.
spray enamel: not ideal because i ultimately want a flat finish. i think if i spray a coat of primer on the enamel before i paint it with a flat water based paint i should be okay.
It will be quite costly to buy enough super glue to dip the piece.
I have in the past poured super glue over zcorp models in a turkey basting pan but you have to be fast because when the glue dries it shrinks enough to start cracking the model. Sprayers work well but the finish is not as uniform as dipping. I have used the pump sprayers that are super cheap to the sprayers that you attach a disposable propellant canister to. bottom line - your throwing the sprayer out at the end of the project.
If you are going to be painting or glazing the model it is always easier if it has been glued or use the zcorp two part epoxy.
There is another company out there that sells cheaper epoxy and super glue kits for the zcorp process. I'll have to look for the contact name.
I generally use glue I get locally in 1lb bottles and always wear a respirator, swimming goggles(u laugh but super glue off gases and burns your eyes when pouring large amounts) and wear two pairs of gloves. If your working on it in studio - make sure its ventilated or you and your studio mates will be bummed. every one probably knows this all but its always good to repeat. The strengthening issue with zcorp is something I have been working on for a couple years now and it always comes back to superglue.
If I can get away with it I use minwax water based clear satin. the three coats mentioned prior is perfect.
I will post the glue reseller as soon as I can find him because he sells low bloom glues
Best of luck
Apr 21, 09 7:58 pm ·
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Z-corp 3d printing
Can anyone offer advice on adding strength to a 3d print? I've worked in an office where we paint resin on the model and bake it in an industrial oven and I've dripped super glue all over my latest model. I would rather do neither because a.) I no longer have access to the equipment at my previous employer's office and b.) the mixture of super glue and Z-corp powder is highly toxic.
Other less expensive/non-toxic ideas anyone?
depending on the size/scale/shape you can try a mix of bondo/hardener with resin/hardener and create an 'icing'
you could also try an epoxy system like 'west systems'
post pics of the model in question..
columbia doesn't have a wax dipper? shocking.
We use a spray polyurethane. Buy a semi-gloss generic brand like Ace. Use multiple coats (three should suffice) but don't build the urethane up too fast otherwise it will turn yellow. It's not as strong as the epoxy suggestions mentioned above but is much easier and less messy.
If you go with an epoxy system, definitely try the west systems. If you are worried about toxic fumes, it's best to stay away from polyester resins. And definitely read about and test the stuff before using it. Mixing too much at one time can create enough heat for spontaneous combustion.
Yea cmon, even us peasants over at NJIT have a wax dipper... granted, it's empty, but still...
wittyuser, what do you recommend?
I suggest buying a large bottle of zap-a-gap and drizzle half of the bottle onto your model until it becomes a giant block of solid toxicity. Then, take the other half bottle, dump it into a medium size paper bag, and inhale deeply. The fumes are going to get into your system anyways, so you might as well build up tolerance as quickly and directly as possible.
thats what i thought
Only a suggestion when so much efford are used anyway. Then why not use the model as what it is a model, use the model to make a mold, remove the model from the mold and cast in as strong material you want.
we cant really determine what can be done until we see the model. you could make a mold but it all depends on undercuts/detail/etc..
tooo many factors without an actual model pic
yes we do have a wax dipper, but at the moment it's empty. the model would be too tricky to mold - there are too many openings and small pieces.
wittyusername - good idea but i've already built up tolerance. i have other issues with zap.
you can try an enamel clear coat...rustoleum makes it....
i was told that simply baking the z corp models would harden them to a degree, except that you might get a minimal amount of shrinkage
I personally haven't had the guts to do anything to my z corp models and just treat them like a deck of cards..
house of cards i mean....
What kind of powder is it? zp140 can be finished with just water...
There are several modern moulding material that can unite a rubber form fit for 100's of cast, Cast in whatever hardening substance you want. Used it for particular ; casts in polyester from live objects --- then when that is reasoable cheap in materials, how fine a cast, and how strong do you think, a silicone rubber form will be ?? do you know how rugid any rubber form of everything can be, When covered with rubber, you stabilise the rubber form to ensure shape, A cast is the way to go, I think it is dentist form rubber, most ecpensive perhaps, but how long has you been asking everyone else what you do --- this even stick to your fingers,. What's basicly wrong, is that the 3D buildup, is newer a house, --- the right way is offcaurse, to see it in another way. A model in the wrong material, wrong color, nothing inside, is not the thing, but more important, is not the tool to have the design manufactored.
That you can also just try in small scale, -- realy why is those hand carved models still what it is about, make everything but a 3D model, am I realy the only who rather see some better visions.
recipe for homemade 3D printer goop:
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/03/090331153010.htm
thanks everyone for the advice.
there are a few reasons why i chose to 3d print this model rather than casting - most importantly, the materiality of the 3d print looks closest to concrete in the images i've taken on the inside. i plan to attach laminated plexi to the model - so the print should not be viewed as the entire building...it's only the concrete structure on the interior.
i've attached some links to the model...it's at 1/8" scale so it's quite large. the orientation in each one is not correct - the columns will be pointing upward ;). take note of the cracking already happening in the first image.
first printed piece
second printed piece
some things i am considering...
wax:
so the wax dipper is up and running...does anyone know offhand if you can still glue these 3d printed wax pieces together?
zap: i think the model is too large to zap. i would be overkill, although i may zap the columns which may be too weak.
spray enamel: not ideal because i ultimately want a flat finish. i think if i spray a coat of primer on the enamel before i paint it with a flat water based paint i should be okay.
suggestions anyone? thanks in advance...
It will be quite costly to buy enough super glue to dip the piece.
I have in the past poured super glue over zcorp models in a turkey basting pan but you have to be fast because when the glue dries it shrinks enough to start cracking the model. Sprayers work well but the finish is not as uniform as dipping. I have used the pump sprayers that are super cheap to the sprayers that you attach a disposable propellant canister to. bottom line - your throwing the sprayer out at the end of the project.
If you are going to be painting or glazing the model it is always easier if it has been glued or use the zcorp two part epoxy.
There is another company out there that sells cheaper epoxy and super glue kits for the zcorp process. I'll have to look for the contact name.
I generally use glue I get locally in 1lb bottles and always wear a respirator, swimming goggles(u laugh but super glue off gases and burns your eyes when pouring large amounts) and wear two pairs of gloves. If your working on it in studio - make sure its ventilated or you and your studio mates will be bummed. every one probably knows this all but its always good to repeat. The strengthening issue with zcorp is something I have been working on for a couple years now and it always comes back to superglue.
If I can get away with it I use minwax water based clear satin. the three coats mentioned prior is perfect.
I will post the glue reseller as soon as I can find him because he sells low bloom glues
Best of luck
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