I'm looking to use sheet metal as an exterior cladding system but don't want it to cost a lot. I know panel systems can be very expensive. Am I naive to think I can do it cheaply with thin sheets of stock material? What are the advantages/ disadvantages of this? What's more effective, aluminum or steel?
biggest problem you will have with sheet metal in long lengths and with thin metal is oil canning...go with shorter and thicker gauge metal panels and design the clips or method of attachment really well or you will have problems.
Steel tends to rust if you don't get a good finish on it. Aluminum can be quite expensive to get a heavy enough gauge to get the proper strength.
What effect are you going after? I've seen ordinary corrugated steel used quite a bit and accomplishing a very good aesthetic. Evern been to Iceland? They use corrugated steel on everything over there.
I'm actually going for a 'puffy' look. Like seinfeld's puffy shirt...
I've realized galvanized sheets are the only way to do it affordably. So with a thin gauge and long runs hopefully the oil-canning will look planned, not accidental.... we see.
I am working on sheet metal cladding details. The house is located in Santa Monica. We will be using galvanized sheet - with minimal oil canning.
I found a system with details similar to what I'd like to do: flat lock at http://www.vmzinc-us.com Unfortunately you need to register to see the details, though it's not necessary for what I am about to ask.
Should I ventilate this system (rain screen)? Or attach directly to sheathing? Attaching directly seems pretty straight forward, but i am not sure what it is I am risking here. Thoughts? Experiences?
But what about when the manufacturer is just the sub with a brake? Oddly all of VM Zinc's details are without a gap, yet they describe it in the literature as rain screen. Must be old details and new literature.
Either way, yeah I think I'll ventilate. Thanks, holz.
A very clean and simple execution I've seen recently is the Diesel Store on Rush Street, Chicago. They used 8 or 10 gauge steel panels with bent returns, etc. in a rain-screen type application. The joints and bends were very well coordinated that was the key - they used Standoffs, which I'm sure were nothing more than rubber bushings. Also, the fasteners were countersunk and matching material, so they were virtually invisible. A good substrate is key, on this particular building they went over poured concrete with a coating, but other types would likely require a mod membrane, which is costly. If it were an all-out shiplapped / rabbeted panel/clip system, you could probably pull-it-off with a good sheetmetal outfit, but the cost will likely become High. If you are cool with oil-canning, thin gauge ductwork is usually pleated / creased to prevent buckiling under pressure changes...perhaps a crease pattern is part of the aesthics as a means towards using thinner guage material. (Like argyle, or other escheresque chasing pattern?
sheet metal
I'm looking to use sheet metal as an exterior cladding system but don't want it to cost a lot. I know panel systems can be very expensive. Am I naive to think I can do it cheaply with thin sheets of stock material? What are the advantages/ disadvantages of this? What's more effective, aluminum or steel?
Any advice is much appreciated....
biggest problem you will have with sheet metal in long lengths and with thin metal is oil canning...go with shorter and thicker gauge metal panels and design the clips or method of attachment really well or you will have problems.
Heres a guy who does alot with sheet metal cladding on houses
take tour also check out The Rural Studio
www.rockhillandassociates.com/RockhillandAssociates.htm
this is a UK based perforating company but maybe of use? Mostly perf but I am sure some sheet cladding solutions?
www.ashlacyperf.co.uk
Find a decent roofing company that will break and bend the metal for you (for a fee, of course)
Steel tends to rust if you don't get a good finish on it. Aluminum can be quite expensive to get a heavy enough gauge to get the proper strength.
What effect are you going after? I've seen ordinary corrugated steel used quite a bit and accomplishing a very good aesthetic. Evern been to Iceland? They use corrugated steel on everything over there.
I'm actually going for a 'puffy' look. Like seinfeld's puffy shirt...
I've realized galvanized sheets are the only way to do it affordably. So with a thin gauge and long runs hopefully the oil-canning will look planned, not accidental.... we see.
thanks for the input...
Hello all. Long time no post...
I am working on sheet metal cladding details. The house is located in Santa Monica. We will be using galvanized sheet - with minimal oil canning.
I found a system with details similar to what I'd like to do: flat lock at http://www.vmzinc-us.com Unfortunately you need to register to see the details, though it's not necessary for what I am about to ask.
Should I ventilate this system (rain screen)? Or attach directly to sheathing? Attaching directly seems pretty straight forward, but i am not sure what it is I am risking here. Thoughts? Experiences?
definitely ventilated, i think the mfr requires it.
But what about when the manufacturer is just the sub with a brake? Oddly all of VM Zinc's details are without a gap, yet they describe it in the literature as rain screen. Must be old details and new literature.
Either way, yeah I think I'll ventilate. Thanks, holz.
A very clean and simple execution I've seen recently is the Diesel Store on Rush Street, Chicago. They used 8 or 10 gauge steel panels with bent returns, etc. in a rain-screen type application. The joints and bends were very well coordinated that was the key - they used Standoffs, which I'm sure were nothing more than rubber bushings. Also, the fasteners were countersunk and matching material, so they were virtually invisible. A good substrate is key, on this particular building they went over poured concrete with a coating, but other types would likely require a mod membrane, which is costly. If it were an all-out shiplapped / rabbeted panel/clip system, you could probably pull-it-off with a good sheetmetal outfit, but the cost will likely become High. If you are cool with oil-canning, thin gauge ductwork is usually pleated / creased to prevent buckiling under pressure changes...perhaps a crease pattern is part of the aesthics as a means towards using thinner guage material. (Like argyle, or other escheresque chasing pattern?
What??? 8ga?
I could maybe see 18ga...
Bump.
Is there an idealized proportion for sheet metal cladding to minimize the chance of oil canning?
Are square panels (1:1 L:W) more ideal than rectangular (2+:1 L:W)?
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