as is obvious by the responses on this thread, the best part about all these tools is how personal they become, in some cases influencing design decisions because you're more comfortable using one thing over another.
plus some of them are just plain fun...i dig my dewalt biscuit joiner.
cryzko - Bicycles. I spent a few years engineering for a company that makes tones of frames for other manufacturers, so I have worked on road bikes, cross bikes, BMX'es and track bikes. I have also built quite a few 'boutique' BMX and track/single speeds frames as a sideline, which I feel are my best work to date.
emily..... i have an old diamondback that i used to back in the day....tricks/jumps/etc...... i would still cruise it but my knees are injured so i have to limit myself.....
i want to get a tig welder...i think thats it....for aluminum..... then i would be good for a while
2:37, that tig welder is a dream of mine also...aside from the capability of welding aluminum, i like how precise the beads look when done with a tig...like overlapping dimes...
i always try to get my beads looking like it was done with a tig...structural is one thing...that's easy, but getting the beads to look uniform is what i always try to perfect when i'm welding...i need to have it look like overlapping dimes, which is difficult...and shiny beads are my favorite also...
i really need to work with aluminum welding.... it's an art to say the least.....my friends dad is a welder by trade and retired from crysler i think...well he had a shop in the basement and garage..... metal lathe and bridge port in the basement and welding in the garage..... he worked with alot of stainless...man..... after the welding coins ....whoa..... then a grind/sand/polish.... shyt was crazy....... he used to do alot of sculpture work but based from wack ideas form others so the designs sucked but the work was crazy impressive...... he built a 10' tall tree out of stainless 4" square tube.... had about 10 arms and 4-6 angled pieces (x,y,z) per arm....then they slid on the main trunk and had hidden set screws...... took him about 6 months....and it was polished........they needed a crane to set it.... little boom crane....
i was getting good with my mig and steel.... i have 4 settings for heat and a speed control.... worked out fine for the small price.....
:
The panasonic screw gun is the best...sounds SO lame, but I swear its teh truth.
Check this out: Saw Stop. When the electric current sent through the blade is interrupted by your finger (or a hot dog, as in the demos), the blade immediately stops and drops through the table top. Keen.
Oh, and those self dimming helmets do take a split second to activate, that is a split second your eyes are exposed to the intense UV light of the arc....If you're serious, just learn how to flip the helmet down. Makes you look cool.
They didn't have self dimming helmets on Flashdance.
the saw stops work once...then you have to replace the electrical unit and maybe the blade..... i look at it this way.... learn to use the tools and you shouldnt have a problem....
and i fired up my mig yesterday..... but i lost all my welding gear...helmet/gloves/etc...had to buy some depot stuff...grrrr......
This cordless blows every other cordless out of the water by far...I used it to put in about 200 - 3/8 lags into 8" timberstrands NOT predrilled...the other drills we used burned out in a matter of 3 lags!!!!!!!!!
Then my trusty paslode trim gun...excellent for my funtiture projects
do you like the cordless wearethestones? i've thought of purchasing a pneumatic gun in the future but then i'd have to buy an air compressor... but of course an air compressor is handy to have for all sorts of occasions/jobs.
ether... just got the Paslode cordless framing nailer for some small scale renovation projects and I love it. can shoot up to 3 1/4" nails and is pretty consistent in the depth it shoots. Unfortunately with the cordless you don't get the "tap shooting" you get with compressor driven ones, and the fumes it emits stinks, but it's worked great so far and the mobility is essential with the work i've been doing.
the fumes are from the gas used to create the small explosion that shoots the nails. If you hold the safety down, you can shoot nails a few 100 feet, btw
the fumes are from the "fuel cell," which is just a glorified co2 cartridge, so after every shot it off-gases a bit, if you were in a small unventilated space i can see it giving you a headache.
the delay isn't bad, you just have to depress it every time, wait a split second, then shoot, nothing too long. for things like putting down sub flooring you might notice because you won't be able to just run across it shooting like a pneumatic would, but then again you don't need to sit there move a compressor tank around and feed yourself hose so it evens out. for me in the end, it saved about $200, it's easier to carry around, and it looks cool.
i didn't get a dewalt (expensive) but i bought a random orbital palm sander from harbor freight and it worked well for $29.95. i bought it for the specific job of stripping paint off of cabinets. couldn't find a 40 grit paper though at the usual stores. it would've saved me some time if i had 40 grit for the outer layers of paint and then moved to 80 grit up to bare wood so as to not create scratch marks on the wood. I noticed that 80 grit by one brand is slightly different than the other. i bought norton papers and they seem to last longer. also, the hook and loop wore faster than the grit. it seemed like a waste of sandpaper.
it use to be that i have to drive 2 hours to go to harbor freight's warehouse, now there is one close by.
I'm itching to get the EZ Smart Woodworking System for my shop. I don't have room for either a panel saw or a crosscut sled big enough to handle a full sheet of ply (which is ridiculous when you think of it anyways).
A lot of people recommend it for those that can't necessarily afford a half-way decent table saw or don't have the room to set up shop. Its on my "to purchase" list so I'll report back if and when I get it.
John Cline:
I wish I could afford Festool, but I'm not at that point just yet. Plus a lot of my stuff has to serve double duty for both in the shop and on site and I wouldn't want to leave Festools kickin' around like that.
dammson:
Not too hard I'm sure, there are less advanced options by a variety of different manufacturers, but if my employers is going to pay I'd rather go all out where I can.
It could be done with a table saw and a stone/concrete blade, though the round section can be a little iffy. Whatever you do, if it feels dangerous or you are unsure about it, find a friend who has more experience and get some help on this kind of work, goggles are an absolute must when cutting stone or concrete.
If there is one near you, a University wood/model shop is a good place to look for a crafty old Mr. Fix-it to help you. Also it is summer, so they might not have much to do right now.
phuyaké - I own a 30deg. Pasolde Framing Nailer...I couldn't imagine framing, or building anything for that matter, without it. A very worthy investment if you plan to build with wood.
The Home Depot brand (RIDGID) makes a solid set of power tools. They have worked great for me.
dammson -- if you put a face shield on a construction helmet, you can wear both goggles and a respirator on it. You can also wear ear-protection if you run the strap behind, or buy a foresters' helmet with integrated ear protection.
treekiller -- get an India Oilstone from Sculpture Space for sharpening chisels and plane blades.
FOG Lite -- I too love the English Wheel, and have made numerous ridiculous aluminum car bumpers just for the pleasure of using the wheel.
Power Tool Essentials
as is obvious by the responses on this thread, the best part about all these tools is how personal they become, in some cases influencing design decisions because you're more comfortable using one thing over another.
plus some of them are just plain fun...i dig my dewalt biscuit joiner.
...and i can't say enough about my dremel.
speaking of jets...
http://www.ieeecss.org/PAB/csm/columns/June2006/June06ChickenProcessing.pdf
lol...that's excellent! i didn't realize there was such a high demand for precision-cut chicken.
perhaps i should change my handle to 'poultryjet'
cryzko - Bicycles. I spent a few years engineering for a company that makes tones of frames for other manufacturers, so I have worked on road bikes, cross bikes, BMX'es and track bikes. I have also built quite a few 'boutique' BMX and track/single speeds frames as a sideline, which I feel are my best work to date.
emily..... i have an old diamondback that i used to back in the day....tricks/jumps/etc...... i would still cruise it but my knees are injured so i have to limit myself.....
i want to get a tig welder...i think thats it....for aluminum..... then i would be good for a while
:
2:37, that tig welder is a dream of mine also...aside from the capability of welding aluminum, i like how precise the beads look when done with a tig...like overlapping dimes...
i always try to get my beads looking like it was done with a tig...structural is one thing...that's easy, but getting the beads to look uniform is what i always try to perfect when i'm welding...i need to have it look like overlapping dimes, which is difficult...and shiny beads are my favorite also...
*i always try to get my beads looking like it was done with a tig...
...but with a mig
i really need to work with aluminum welding.... it's an art to say the least.....my friends dad is a welder by trade and retired from crysler i think...well he had a shop in the basement and garage..... metal lathe and bridge port in the basement and welding in the garage..... he worked with alot of stainless...man..... after the welding coins ....whoa..... then a grind/sand/polish.... shyt was crazy....... he used to do alot of sculpture work but based from wack ideas form others so the designs sucked but the work was crazy impressive...... he built a 10' tall tree out of stainless 4" square tube.... had about 10 arms and 4-6 angled pieces (x,y,z) per arm....then they slid on the main trunk and had hidden set screws...... took him about 6 months....and it was polished........they needed a crane to set it.... little boom crane....
i was getting good with my mig and steel.... i have 4 settings for heat and a speed control.... worked out fine for the small price.....
:
Unless you have a huge amount of space, ditch the tablesaw and see if you can get a guide rail for your circular saw.
This baby
v
And a low end compressor w. loads of cheapass airtools has kept me out of the shop for years.
The panasonic screw gun is the best...sounds SO lame, but I swear its teh truth.
Check this out: Saw Stop. When the electric current sent through the blade is interrupted by your finger (or a hot dog, as in the demos), the blade immediately stops and drops through the table top. Keen.
Oh, and those self dimming helmets do take a split second to activate, that is a split second your eyes are exposed to the intense UV light of the arc....If you're serious, just learn how to flip the helmet down. Makes you look cool.
They didn't have self dimming helmets on Flashdance.
the saw stops work once...then you have to replace the electrical unit and maybe the blade..... i look at it this way.... learn to use the tools and you shouldnt have a problem....
and i fired up my mig yesterday..... but i lost all my welding gear...helmet/gloves/etc...had to buy some depot stuff...grrrr......
but i still want a tig
b
I need a new drill.
The new lithium ion milwalkee looks like a good buy. Others?
this thread is now back on-line. add to it.
well used ;)
is the way to go.
This cordless blows every other cordless out of the water by far...I used it to put in about 200 - 3/8 lags into 8" timberstrands NOT predrilled...the other drills we used burned out in a matter of 3 lags!!!!!!!!!
Then my trusty paslode trim gun...excellent for my funtiture projects
do you like the cordless wearethestones? i've thought of purchasing a pneumatic gun in the future but then i'd have to buy an air compressor... but of course an air compressor is handy to have for all sorts of occasions/jobs.
its attached to my hip...in my holdster
-the gun just looks badass!
ether... just got the Paslode cordless framing nailer for some small scale renovation projects and I love it. can shoot up to 3 1/4" nails and is pretty consistent in the depth it shoots. Unfortunately with the cordless you don't get the "tap shooting" you get with compressor driven ones, and the fumes it emits stinks, but it's worked great so far and the mobility is essential with the work i've been doing.
I follow ya on the tap shooting. What is the time taken between charges/taps? And what are the fumes from?
the fumes are from the gas used to create the small explosion that shoots the nails. If you hold the safety down, you can shoot nails a few 100 feet, btw
the fumes are from the "fuel cell," which is just a glorified co2 cartridge, so after every shot it off-gases a bit, if you were in a small unventilated space i can see it giving you a headache.
the delay isn't bad, you just have to depress it every time, wait a split second, then shoot, nothing too long. for things like putting down sub flooring you might notice because you won't be able to just run across it shooting like a pneumatic would, but then again you don't need to sit there move a compressor tank around and feed yourself hose so it evens out. for me in the end, it saved about $200, it's easier to carry around, and it looks cool.
i need a palm sander, any recommendations?
dewault...get the orbital (round)..has more power than the square one....
the square one is fine for refinish work like sanding clear or something...but it doesnt move much and just gums up......
b
chili do you know if that dremel can engrave in rock?
dewalt = crap
i didn't get a dewalt (expensive) but i bought a random orbital palm sander from harbor freight and it worked well for $29.95. i bought it for the specific job of stripping paint off of cabinets. couldn't find a 40 grit paper though at the usual stores. it would've saved me some time if i had 40 grit for the outer layers of paint and then moved to 80 grit up to bare wood so as to not create scratch marks on the wood. I noticed that 80 grit by one brand is slightly different than the other. i bought norton papers and they seem to last longer. also, the hook and loop wore faster than the grit. it seemed like a waste of sandpaper.
it use to be that i have to drive 2 hours to go to harbor freight's warehouse, now there is one close by.
I'm itching to get the EZ Smart Woodworking System for my shop. I don't have room for either a panel saw or a crosscut sled big enough to handle a full sheet of ply (which is ridiculous when you think of it anyways).
A lot of people recommend it for those that can't necessarily afford a half-way decent table saw or don't have the room to set up shop. Its on my "to purchase" list so I'll report back if and when I get it.
Festool my friend.
i wonder how difficult it would be to fabricate one of those guides for a circular saw.
oh no
Can we embed sounds?
John Cline:
I wish I could afford Festool, but I'm not at that point just yet. Plus a lot of my stuff has to serve double duty for both in the shop and on site and I wouldn't want to leave Festools kickin' around like that.
dammson:
Not too hard I'm sure, there are less advanced options by a variety of different manufacturers, but if my employers is going to pay I'd rather go all out where I can.
What's the best tool to cut a 2" tube of concrete or rockite into sections? tile saw?
umm.... cant you cast them in sections?
you would need a diamond blade tip concrete saw.......
It could be done with a table saw and a stone/concrete blade, though the round section can be a little iffy. Whatever you do, if it feels dangerous or you are unsure about it, find a friend who has more experience and get some help on this kind of work, goggles are an absolute must when cutting stone or concrete.
If there is one near you, a University wood/model shop is a good place to look for a crafty old Mr. Fix-it to help you. Also it is summer, so they might not have much to do right now.
you dont want to run concrete through a table saw... the dust will mess up the motor/etc...... seen it happen.....
phuyaké - I own a 30deg. Pasolde Framing Nailer...I couldn't imagine framing, or building anything for that matter, without it. A very worthy investment if you plan to build with wood.
The Home Depot brand (RIDGID) makes a solid set of power tools. They have worked great for me.
dammson -- if you put a face shield on a construction helmet, you can wear both goggles and a respirator on it. You can also wear ear-protection if you run the strap behind, or buy a foresters' helmet with integrated ear protection.
treekiller -- get an India Oilstone from Sculpture Space for sharpening chisels and plane blades.
FOG Lite -- I too love the English Wheel, and have made numerous ridiculous aluminum car bumpers just for the pleasure of using the wheel.
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