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Help me choose: Glasgow or Edinburgh?

liberty bell

PsyArch, you are the best (I say as a recipient of one of PsyArch's uber-cool mix CD's and now his extensive travel guide). Thank you, I will check out some of your suggestions.

Sterling is the family name spelling, so excuse my ignorance about the place name. Perhaps they aren't related? But Stirling Castle is definitely the one we are going to. Thanks for the movie tip, solidred, my husband will love it I'm sure! Bring on a snowstorm and a Sunday afternoon movie!

Dec 4, 06 7:23 am  · 
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PsyArch

Aargh, a little harsh on Stirling perhaps. But, as seventeen years a Scotsman, one is allowed to have favourites.

Avoid Dundee.

Dec 4, 06 6:50 pm  · 
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liberty bell

I'm reviving (uh, "necroe-ing?") this thread as we leave in 3.5 weeks!

One easy but critical question, dear Scottish archinecters: it will be impossible for me to not look like a tourist while I am, in fact, being a tourist in your country. That said, are jeans and cowboys boots acceptable attire for most of what I'll be doing there? I think my mother in law has actually scheduled a high tea at the Balmoral Hotel, Edinburgh: can I wear jeans there?

Apr 20, 07 11:40 am  · 
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winifred

Glasgow is utterly unique and the people are awesome. I'm going there for two weeks in May! I went to the Glasgow School of Art and will be visiting old friends.

My heart is with Glasgow- but if it is your first time- Edinburgh is a more accessible city.

Apr 20, 07 10:51 pm  · 
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winifred

Oops- it looks like you've already decided.

I'm not Scottish but I did spend a lot of time as an American in Glasgow.

Don't worry about looking American but do look put together.

Apr 20, 07 10:59 pm  · 
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liberty bell

Thanks stratus - actually, with some itinerary changes it turns out we WILL have a couple of hours in Glasgow now too. School of Art is probably high on my list. (And I do typically look "put together" - I'm a little vain that way.)

Also, we'll be doing the 24-hour-layover thing in Reikjavik, Iceland. I know we'll go to Blue Lagoon because my MIL loved it last time she was there, and wandering around the city core.

Anyone else have any comments?

Apr 21, 07 8:55 am  · 
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SuperBeatledud

About to make my flight for Glasgow right now actually.

Apr 21, 07 10:16 am  · 
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SuperBeatledud

well maybe edingburgh...where?

Apr 21, 07 11:02 am  · 
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SuperBeatledud

Ok, Edingburgh it is, I leave 2 weeks from today. I'll make sure to warn them about you lb.

Apr 21, 07 12:04 pm  · 
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higherrise

hope this isn't too late, but it is possible to do both....it only takes 45 minutes on the train from Gla-Edin, trains are every 15 minutes during the day. Art School is about a 20 minute walk from the train station in Glasgow. Either way, you should def try to see both the parliament and the art school. Miralles stayed at the art school for a while you know, there is a little apartment above the materials store, ergonomically perfect for one human being......he was permanently hanging out of the window smoking (damn spanish and their smokes!!) so much so he had to leave as the school was so worried he'd set it alight! He used to give an amazing lecture on Mackintosh, must be published somewhere. Gave a really fresh insight into the works of Mackintosh and his wife....have a great trip whatever you do....

Apr 24, 07 6:18 pm  · 
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liberty bell

Thanks higherrise! We will have a car but frankly a 45 minute train ride sounds much more fun and my son loves trains.

Apr 24, 07 10:18 pm  · 
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vado retro

my exgirlfriend/future wife's landlady owns some campground/retreat bed and breakfast type thing in scotland. i can't think of the name of it right now. oh HeReItIs!!!

Apr 24, 07 10:26 pm  · 
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mouse

Before you go, make sure you read some of Ian Rankin's Inspector Rebus books - the real essence of the seamier side of edinburgh.

Apr 25, 07 6:56 am  · 
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yay, you get to go to glasgow! i wasn't going to argue with the rest, but i love it so much more. if you go to the mackintosh school, don't miss walking down the hill to sauchiehall for lunch or tea at mack's willow tea room. get a table at the second floor window overlooking the street.

Apr 25, 07 7:38 am  · 
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vado retro

rebus is excellent. i watched the series recently.

Apr 25, 07 8:51 am  · 
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higherrise

Hey no worries, glad to be of assistance!

Train drops you off a Glasgow Queen St which is right in the heart of the city, the art school usually run a couple of tours during the day, you don't have to book in advance, but you may have to call to ensure their running when you are around, this way you can get 'access all areas'. You really don't want to miss the library which ordinarily you cannot access if you're not on a tour. If you can't get in head across the road to the architecture building (can't miss it, it's the ugly building that bridges over the street) and try to speak to someone there who will most likely take you around.

Train ride is really straightforward, here's a link to timetables....
http://www.firstgroup.com/scotrail/tt/1166110439-Route01.pdf

enjoy....

Apr 25, 07 2:01 pm  · 
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RejectedSBD

i'd love to go, but 2.5 days is so short for me and my possie, word?

Apr 25, 07 7:42 pm  · 
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winifred

In Glasgow a short walk from the art school:

http://www.sarti.co.uk/menuhome.aspx

mmmm.....

If you visit the Art School- I encourage you rebel against the tour and peak into the painting studios- they are gorgeous and worth the dirty looks that students will give.

Apr 28, 07 1:09 am  · 
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SuperBeatledud

of too Edinburgh tomorrow, any final thoughts?

May 4, 07 2:25 pm  · 
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liberty bell

2:30 AM and I leave for Scotland in 9.5 hours and just finished sending all my emails and prepping for an early contractor meeting in the morning and printing out everything from this thread so I can enjoy the advice of so many wonderful Scottish archinecters. Thanks everyone!

May 15, 07 2:25 am  · 
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liberty bell

I'm back! And looking forward to discussing the wonder that is Scotland. So far I only have access to one of the photographs from the trip, and I'll go ahead and post it even though it is painfully embarassing for me.



This is my son Angus standing on the ruins of Urquhart Castle and yelling "Freedom!" as prompted by his father and me. Americans of Scottish descent are predictably dorky when in "the motherland", no? (I'm of German descent, BTW, it's my husband whose 5xGreat-Grandfather's grave we visited in Beauly). At least Angus isn't in his kilt in this pic - which he was in about 50% of the pics we took!

Embarrassing geekiness aside, I had a wonderful time and am madly in love with the highlands and Glasgow (and Iceland too, but more on that later). I want to go back to the highlands when Angus is a teen and spend a week or two hiking the trails. A few big notes:

Since moving to the midwest I thought I understood "changeable" weather, but man - there is NO atmosphere so changeable as the Scottish Highlands! Rain, sun, clouds, rainbows, gale force wind, all in 10 minute increments, all of it breathtakingly beautiful. We stayed 5 days in Easter Bunloit Cottage, sited in the most majestic location imaginable overlooking Loch Ness. (On the monster, I can honestly see why one would think this Loch harbors some unknown creature - the water moves in ways I have never seen a lake move before. Captivating.) I'll tell ya, Laphroaig is always good but it just tastes phenomenal when you drink it while overlooking that awesome Scottish landscape.

My architouring was sadly severely limited due to my mother-in-law (who paid for the trip) being more interested in old castles and high teas (the Balmoral Hotel high tea was delicious). But I saw a bit: The Firth Rail Bridge was a revelation, I had no idea it was so BIG! I always loved it in arch history class, for its raw brawniness and honesty, but seeing how huge it is, well, you know what they say. Awesome. Then seeing the Falkirk Wheel was a nice bookend to notions of Scottish engineering. Very fun ride on the Falkirk Wheel, excellent visitor's center, it was a good day out.

Parliament Building is perfect, in my eyes. Idiosyncratic and bold yet incredibly human.

I actually spent most of my sketching time drawing the sort of "non-architecture" buildings I love - quonset huts, farm outbuildings, turf and stone fences, bus shelters, the like.

OK more gushing later. Need to catch up on work not to mention Thread Central...

May 29, 07 11:37 am  · 
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WonderK

Yay! She's back! There is nothing dorky or embarrassing about that picture. It's hilarious and I would have done the same thing, with someone else's child even.

I can't wait to see the rest!

May 29, 07 11:50 am  · 
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higherrise

excellent photo....and a good scottish name!...Sounds like you had fun. If only midwesterners knew the real definition of changeable...In my time there, the weather there was at least predictable, unlike scotland...look forward to seeing more photos...

May 29, 07 4:18 pm  · 
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liberty bell

Here is a link to my Flickr site where I have posted a few (a dozen) more. Most of my pics tend to be pics of Angus!

Here is the best photo from the trip, and quite architecture related: I adore the Parliament Building, and my giddy delight at it shows in this pic aken just as we were leaving (far too brief a visit for me, but happy to have seen it - I could have spent the entire day there).

May 31, 07 12:16 am  · 
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liberty bell

I meant to post this and am finally getting around to it:

I had wanted to eat haggis while in Scotland, as the only haggis I've ever had has been from the Italian Market butchers in Philly (yummy stuff). But I kept ordering fish and chips instead, and finally on the last day had haggis, at this place:

Blas Restaurant, Glasgow

My friend who lives right around the corner recommended that we try it, she described it as "Scottish fusion" which made us all giggle, but that's actually pretty apt. The "Haggis Millefuielle" is definitely an upscale bistro-ey version of haggis, and absolutely delicious. Nice atmosphere in the restaurant too, cool design, and good beer.

Jun 4, 07 11:33 am  · 
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