Anyone out there have any experience using soundproof windows that are operable and appropriate for an older residence? STC ratings I've found on the nets have been conflicting.
Also wondering if any of you have insulated an older home from the inside. I recall a former co-worker talking about core drilling out a hole between studs to accomodate blown in insulation then plugging the plaster hole and covering it up with a picture rail at the top and mopboard at the bottom. ??? Any ideas?
There is a drywall called Supress Drywall that you can just laminate over existing drywall that gives you a better STC rating than blown in insulation in some cases. It is expensive,but less mess. Still have to deal with the baseboards though. Is is especially good at getting rid of vibration noise. When you insulate a stud wall, the sound still travels thru the studs. If you email me, I can email you a bunch of pdfs on the product.
We did a couple of jobs soundproofing houses near a helecopter landing pad and an airport. You need to replace windows and doors, install gasketing, caulk, insulate, deal with roof vents etc. The triple glazed windows worked well for sound insulating. You can also do double hungs with double or triple glazed windows and then a storm window. If you get the manufacturer to vary the width of the air space, tha thickness of the glass, and they type of glass in the window, you increase the stc rating considerably.
Thanks archie. Ugh, I guess it will be a mess no matter what, but I was hoping we could avoid removing all the window, baseboard, and door trim to accomodate an extra layer of drywall. I think just having it die into the existing trim would be one of those crappy details that bother the purist in me. I'll search out that Supress drywall to let'em know their options. I might just suggest doing the windows first to see how much that improves the noise.
Do you recall the approx. cost of those windows, or maybe what manufacturer you used?
Thanks again.
if you replace the window's wouldn't you also remove the interior trim? you might be half way there to install the sound gyp.
also, in my experience, stc rating can be deceiving. i would try to isolate the 'type' of noise you want to eliminate. if it's high frequency, that would require a different solution than low frequency. if it's structure born, that would require a different solution than say the airport/ helicopter scenario mentioned above.
Good point devil. I suppose I was thinking about the last job I did replacing rebuilt/reglazed where we did have to remove some of the window trim on the side but the top and bottom trim stayed in place. The house I'm working on has ALOT of trim, wainscot, and built-ins....and is located on a very busy street.
Thanks for your take on the stc rating.
Nov 8, 06 5:52 pm ·
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Soundproofing
Anyone out there have any experience using soundproof windows that are operable and appropriate for an older residence? STC ratings I've found on the nets have been conflicting.
Also wondering if any of you have insulated an older home from the inside. I recall a former co-worker talking about core drilling out a hole between studs to accomodate blown in insulation then plugging the plaster hole and covering it up with a picture rail at the top and mopboard at the bottom. ??? Any ideas?
There is a drywall called Supress Drywall that you can just laminate over existing drywall that gives you a better STC rating than blown in insulation in some cases. It is expensive,but less mess. Still have to deal with the baseboards though. Is is especially good at getting rid of vibration noise. When you insulate a stud wall, the sound still travels thru the studs. If you email me, I can email you a bunch of pdfs on the product.
We did a couple of jobs soundproofing houses near a helecopter landing pad and an airport. You need to replace windows and doors, install gasketing, caulk, insulate, deal with roof vents etc. The triple glazed windows worked well for sound insulating. You can also do double hungs with double or triple glazed windows and then a storm window. If you get the manufacturer to vary the width of the air space, tha thickness of the glass, and they type of glass in the window, you increase the stc rating considerably.
Thanks archie. Ugh, I guess it will be a mess no matter what, but I was hoping we could avoid removing all the window, baseboard, and door trim to accomodate an extra layer of drywall. I think just having it die into the existing trim would be one of those crappy details that bother the purist in me. I'll search out that Supress drywall to let'em know their options. I might just suggest doing the windows first to see how much that improves the noise.
Do you recall the approx. cost of those windows, or maybe what manufacturer you used?
Thanks again.
if you replace the window's wouldn't you also remove the interior trim? you might be half way there to install the sound gyp.
also, in my experience, stc rating can be deceiving. i would try to isolate the 'type' of noise you want to eliminate. if it's high frequency, that would require a different solution than low frequency. if it's structure born, that would require a different solution than say the airport/ helicopter scenario mentioned above.
the window's sound very expensive.
Good point devil. I suppose I was thinking about the last job I did replacing rebuilt/reglazed where we did have to remove some of the window trim on the side but the top and bottom trim stayed in place. The house I'm working on has ALOT of trim, wainscot, and built-ins....and is located on a very busy street.
Thanks for your take on the stc rating.
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