For normal polystyrene sheets, modeling glue from the hobby store should work fine, aka Acetate adhesives.
j

weld on 3 works but depending on thickness it'll "soggy" it a bit......weld on 16 also works but that more of a glue than a solvent......

how large is the model and thickness of the styrene?

b

3m makes an adhesive film that is available in rolls up to 2' wide. great stuff. will keep the topo layers even - just remember to use the slip sheet while positioning the layers.

the model will be roughly 4'x4' with about 7" of vertical rise from the sheets (a hilly site) the layers are 1/16" or .060"

any source onthe 3m flim? I'm going to try some of the acetate adhesives tomorrow I think.

Most graphic arts/drafting supply places sell it. Search for 3m 465 Scotch Adhesive Transfer Tape. The 12'x60 yr rolls are about $150/ea but well worth it. No fumes and unlimited time to place each piece. back in my day(s) at FOG, we would bill the client per each sq inch of this stuff that we used.

You have over 100 layers - that sucks. I once had to do a similar sized base for an outdoor performing arts shed - took about one month to construct.

The film will be much, much easier and safer to work with. Don't use the solvents without a good respirator/fume hood - very toxic.

thanks a bunch. hmm, we have a former FOGer at the office, from the bilbao era and he didnt mention anything.. hmm, he's holding back I see.

since my layers are so numerous, will there be any increase in the thickness due to the tape? I imagine so, but it couldnt be much.

I have googled it, but do you know if this is something that is either A: usually availble in local setting, or B: if its specialty and needs to be bought online or ordered in

thanks again.

don't know pittsburg supple shops. Charrette.com is my first source, then McMaster.com, utrect, et cetera. Probably will need to order it for the wider widths. The narrow tape is typically available (1/4", 1/2", & 3/4") but you'll want the widest possible rolls.

A little exaggeration is welcome to verticle topography, the film will add +/-.01mm/layer - about as much as sloppy glueing. Just don't build the structures and other pieces till after the topo base is wrapped up. build the other parts to fit the base, not the drawings.

I can't talk about my FOG daze without risking nasty flashbacks.

haha, yeah I hear ya. I'll call around. thanks

i have used the 3M tape for topos and it works really well, but with that kind o thickness you are going to have issues - the thickness of the tape will add up and amke the topos inaccurate, and with over 100 layers it will be tough to keep things square. i would suggest sending the styrene back and getting the topos milled from rigid foam or plastic. you will save both time and money.

yeah, actually a good point, but I'm not the boss, and he wants it a certain way. I'm the one that just does what I'm told. yeah, having the model be square is something I am concerned about. and they want to do it with no border, or boundary, so I hope the edges dont come out looking like shit, all wavy, and jagged, etc. but... it is what it is.

speaking of milling, CMU doesn thave fabrication facilities, so do you know of anyone who can do a 4'x4' milled topo model? doesnt have to be local, just something I havent researched a lot. thanks.

i would use solvent and just run the edges of the layers... if you can get needles then use those and squirt some into the centers of the sheets...... i would also paint it white after you are done if thats the goal of keeping it white... the solvent will yellow styrene after a few months if not painted...... plus the solvent will give you some play time to adjust the layers by sliding then a bit....... i would also build a corner jig or a wall so all the layers line up or get close....... if you have access to a table saw, you can glue up 3 sets of layers and then run them through to saw to even out the sides.............


b

for foam contours......


b

hmm, all good points 237.

what kind of solvent? I was told the solvent I have for acrylic wont work...
I figure solvent to be a good method, but I guess I will order some of everything and see. an dI do have access to a table saw. a shitty one, but its access at least

weld-on 3 i use it for all my models..... if you put toooo much on the styrene it'll melt it (soggy) but that shyt works....... plus it's a solvent and not a glue

solvents create chemical reactions and welds the parts

glues just make another layer between the parts.....

any acrylic store will have a selection of weld-on products

hmm, ok. any idea if acetone works? my boss seems to think it does.

guess I'll research more at work tomorrow.
thanks

acetone might...... i know i have used acetone to ink transfer photocopies onto materials

joe,

where did you buy your stock of styrene sheets?..link?

thanks
b

oh by the way, acetone works good when liberally applied, and air is intorduced. and I dont notice and degradation in structural strength, or appearance.

A local branch of Total Plastics.
they ship/deliver, and from my research have good prices. I'm sure they probably have one near you, if you are in the northeast. Basically anything plastic they have, so just ask away.
4'x8' sheets at $16 each
1/16" or .060"

http://www.totalplastics.com/location.htm

that's hottt...... evergreen wanted $8 for a 1'x2' .060 sheet

HA, yeah I skipped right over those places and went to the big guys...

and I think I ordered waaaaaay to much. 20 fuckin sheets... we'll see

hahaha...... it's always better to order more than not enough..... can always sell to college kids......

what size you order?

4x8

thickness?

.060 .125?

.060

.060....der...i reread above