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Church of the Light

guiggster

I just saw Tadao Ando's Church of the Light in Ibaraki, Japan the other day as I was making my way through Osaka, Kyoto, and Nara. It was perhaps my favorite part of the trip that consisted of a number of traditional gardens and temples, including Todaiji (the largest wooden structure in the world).

Now, Ando has been my favorite architect for a while now, but the reason I think I really enjoyed the Church of the Light was that I saw it in its intended context. It was just a small, slightly hidden church sitting in the middle of a quiet neighborhood. Some little old man, when he saw me, started asking me in Japanese if I was looking for the church and then pointed out the way. There was no one there, but the church is left open for visitors (I have to admit that I walked into the main room of the Sunday school even though it said do not enter...in my defense it was only blocked by a stool...and I am a bad man). I had to find the door to the actual church since I knew nothing about the plan. It turned out to be the entire 10'x10' (or so) glass window that I was standing next to. It felt like I had figured out how to open that puzzle box from Hellraiser...only it was a church instead of hell...and therefore scarier. Anyway, the space is extremely atmospheric, like a small European monastery.

Right, I rambled a bit but i was wondering if there are any other notable buildings that people have visited that are still in their original context. It was such a difference to stumble upon this, in a sense, and explore it without the lines, ropes, guards, guides, build up of other places I have visited, like the Kyoto/Nara World Heritage sites, or Fallingwater and the like. Thoughts?

 
Nov 7, 05 12:55 am
impalajunkie

I felt the same way when I visited Zumthor's teardrop shaped chapel at Sogn Benedict (spelling?) The path to it weaves back and forth up the alps, you finally get there and park at what seems to be the end of someones driveway. About 50 feet from that was a house where a man was painting his porch, and about 100 feet behind his house was the chapel. Empty, quiet, and it felt like it was on top of the world.

Nov 7, 05 1:55 am  · 
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Manther

I visited Ronchamp a couple years back. It was amazing. Blue skies, only and only a few people milling around. It made me realize how great and powerful architecture can be. I doubt the experience can ever be topped.

Nov 7, 05 3:39 am  · 
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Appleseed

I totally dug the Church of the Light when I saw it a few years back. The pastor is one of the odder people I've met, but super nice. You already through Kyoto? Drop me(us) a line.

Nov 7, 05 6:07 am  · 
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Marcus Trimble

Yep, same deal with Church of the Light. We were struck by the fact that it was, you know, actually operating as a church. Unlike a lot of Ando's other churches in Japan that are really just wedding chapels.

As for other places without ropes etc - the Biennale gardens in Venice, in Winter, with not a soul around and a bunch of amazing pavilions ranks up there.

Nov 7, 05 6:46 am  · 
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ieyaseu

Hi there

Im off to Japan next week and will be staying in osaka for about four days.

How hard is it to find this church, any quick and easy directions.

Always wanted to see this church,

thanks

Nov 7, 05 6:56 pm  · 
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Ludwig
http://www.galinsky.com/buildings/churchoflight/index.htm

you will find directions in the website attached.

Nov 7, 05 7:05 pm  · 
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kreynolds

If you havent already you should purchase the architectural map of osaka. You can find it more readily when in japan although i believe you can order it from prairie ave.

http://www.pabook.com/detail.asp?id=4887061781

I found this to be an invaluable resource - the church of light is in the book.

Nov 8, 05 3:01 pm  · 
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ieyaseu

Thanks guys

Beutiful church

Nov 27, 05 2:21 pm  · 
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that church was the only one of ando's buildings that i have enjoyed visiting.

my wife and i had the place to ourselves as well after an interesting chat with the pastor. we did about 10 of ando's building on that trip and they all dissapointed apart from the church of the light (huge shock for a 3rd year undergrad student)...ando never learned to do good buildings much bigger than that. he just can't deal with the scale somehow.

did you like any of his other works guigg?

Nov 27, 05 9:01 pm  · 
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guiggster

To tell the truth I've only been to two other buildings; one is a museum in the countryside of Kumamoto, Japan. Its basically built up around ancient burial mounds...which makes it sound much more exciting than it is. The other is the Suntory Museum in Osaka. Both of those are at a much larger scale than the Church of the Light.

The Museum in Kumamoto is actually god awfully ugly from the outside. But the overly spacious interior did have moments of character. the Suntory Museum actually had a number of nicely designed spots. The interior was absolutely ruined by bad museum planning and the worst Art Deco exhibition that I had the bad fortune of seeing twice accidentally, once in Fukuoka then again in Osaka.

I think you are right about the scale. Reading some of Ando's personal thoughts on architecture I would say that it simply isn't in his design nature to design big. it is much harder to design in relation to or with sensitivity to the natural environment if the building simply dwarfs anything in nature...besides mountains or whatever. So...yeah. Did that make any sense?

Nov 28, 05 12:21 am  · 
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Oana S.

I've also been to the Biennale gardens in Venice on a christmas (1st undergrad year). though we had to jump over the fence, it was quite nice. 1 man was walking his dog there and the view of these pavilions (usually surrounded by lots of people) 'all by them selves'... Loved it!

Nov 28, 05 3:32 am  · 
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crillywazzy

i've had two experiences like that at steven holl's st. ignatius chapel in seattle. the first time we visited was at night and there was a choir practice going on in there. sent chills up the spine sitting and listening to that. the next time we visited we had the place all to ourselves for an hour. and yes it is a working chapel, not a stuffy architectural destination...

Dec 4, 05 3:14 pm  · 
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Hasselhoff

I thought the same thing about Ando's buildings with regard to scale. His smaller work is much, MUCH better. He is able to manipulate light more effectively. I think when he creates smaller spaces of concrete, they feel intimate. Large concrete spaces feel like warehouses. The Suntory museum was god awful. I really didn't like it at all. He has random retail buildings throughout Japan that weren't bad. I found that piece of wall that interupts the 'light cross' at the church of light to be troublesome. It messed with the symmetry of that really key moment. I do like the Pulitzer Foundation in St. Louis. Really beautiful on a sunny day. His HH Style in Tokyo (the metal one) is an interesting change. I'd like to check out some of his private homes. I wonder how the smaller scale works.

Dec 4, 05 3:48 pm  · 
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Hasselhoff

Here is what I mean, the piece of wall. I adjusted the contrast so that it shows up because of the way the cross glows in photos. It is super prominant in person. The quality of the space is great, which is the point. But that little bit kept bothering me. Like watching a great movie with a stain on the screen or something. But in this case, the stain was designed.

Dec 4, 05 3:55 pm  · 
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