yO shake-shake-shake it like a polo-roid pikture. So anyway, I've made a rough draft of my portfolio in indesign, and it's time to tighten up the final layouts.
I'm sticking with a standard size, 8.5x11. Several pages will have full-bleeds, so I'll be using a larger paper size and trimming them down. I'm going to check out binding options (ring, etc.) tomorrow. I've never made anything that consisted of more than a single page, so I have some questions.
I assume I should factor in the space wasted by the binding, right? (Hence take down some measurement when I go look at them).
And I plan on having one image carry across 2 pages as a spread. Are there any tips on how to make this look nice when using a binding?
Any other suggestions for setting up the document (for multiple pages,etc.) would be most welcome. I think I'll head over to borders and scan thru some books in the meantime.
there isnt 'universal rules' that cover all types of binding. ya got to get the binding set then set it based on that.
why are u making it hard on yourself printing on oversize and cutting it down. if its 3 ring, why not just print it on 8.5x11?
my printer will print to the edges and many do now based on the paper type. if you committed to printing to the edges in the long haul you might think about getting a printer that can do this straight away. it will pay for itself with paper/cutting quickly.
auto, if your book will not lay flat due to the bind, you will have to accomodate for the any images that are crossing over the gutter. i would create document that has facing pages, create frame on each page, place the image in each of those frames so that the right side of the image in on the right page frame and the left side of the image is in the left page frame. once you get them to match up, you will have to nudge the image in one of the frames towards the edge of the page. how much? it's trial and error. it depends on the type of bind and how thick the book is. you should be able to get something you are happy with though so that it visually looks correct after binding.
if you have common elements on all pages, spend some time learning about master pages. if you are using the same size text and/or same style of paragraphs, spend some time learning about character and paragraph styles. both of these things will save you a lot of time when creating the document and if you decide to change something mid-way. for example, if you want to change the type size of your header after your book is complete, you'd only have to go to your paragraph or character style, change it there and it will change all instances that you have applied that style to.
ted - i have an epson 4000, and it can do side to side, but not top and bottom, bleeds. cost way too much to replaced. (though it would be nice to have a PS color laser right about now...)
yeah, i jumped the gun about binding specs. i'll go to a bookbinder tomorrow and check out their more econimical offerings.
e - thanks for the tips. i certainly will have common elements, and will take the time to "standarize" the whole.
I made this portfolio using double sided ink jet paper and my home canon i950 printer and InDesign.
e makes very good points...you can even make copies of masters and make them subMasters that have the master element then say a chapter element that changes.
I printed chapter pages on ink jet velum front and back.
you can get kinkos to glue bind and you get them to use chipboard they use for cutting as the cover and back. They will say they dont use chipboard...but they have it...just have to guide them.
I think it looks alot better than wire binding and is a ton cheaper than getting a small run of hard bound portfolios.
here are some examples...the chapter page in green is velum printed on both sides.
Also consider wire comb binding or "spiral o" binding. (Don't do plastic spiral) Having images and even text in certain instances print "through" the binding area can look very interesting. Be mindful of the paper stock you choose: 30 pound uncoated offset paper might be kind of see-through, for example. Seeing the shapes of images or text through a page can be distracting, esp in a portfolio. And check your guides to make sure everything lines up down to the pica. It's very easy to overlook this.
I used In Design for my first portfolio and the master page is really key. I also had to trim my pages in order to get full bleed. If you only have a few pages to trim, I think it will save you money to do it yourself. Also, I don't know if jasoncross was talking about the tape bind that Kinkos offers (It sounds like the glue bind but I wasn't sure) but I wouldn't use the tape bind. It looks really nice at first but after several portfolio viewings the glue breaks down. I have a friend that used it and many pages are starting to come loose. You can also bring in your own board for front and back covers, you can use black mat board, or other colors. Someone said that Kinko's will tell thay can't bind board but they usually can. They told me they couldn't but they ended up being able to bind it. Good Luck...
jason, that's totally nice, and i could imagine use of the master made things much much easier. i've settled on the binding and paper choices, now i need to figure out how to use more common elements throughout my pages. i don't see how i can use a master layout for all of them, since some projects are short (can fit on 1 page) while others take up to 6 pages - and they will require a more individual approach. my tentative plan is to tailor the layouts accordingly, but keep character and paragraph styles consistent throughout. kind of like a magazine.
auto, you can set up more than one master. think about the types of pages you will have. as a simple example, you could set up a master for text only pages and then set up one for image only pages.
sullivan is right about the tape binding at kinko's. I wanted to use it becasue it looks clean, but the guy working there told me that after about 2-4 times of flipping through, pages would start to fall out.
It might depend on the weight of the cover stock now that I think about it...If you use 100# or higher it will more than likely turn to crap after a bit...anyway...however you do it, best of luck!
i've done a number of different japanese hand stitched binds for various books. doesn't take long if you aren't putting together that many. it does look nice and isn't that hard to learn.
InDesign NittyGritty
yO shake-shake-shake it like a polo-roid pikture. So anyway, I've made a rough draft of my portfolio in indesign, and it's time to tighten up the final layouts.
I'm sticking with a standard size, 8.5x11. Several pages will have full-bleeds, so I'll be using a larger paper size and trimming them down. I'm going to check out binding options (ring, etc.) tomorrow. I've never made anything that consisted of more than a single page, so I have some questions.
I assume I should factor in the space wasted by the binding, right? (Hence take down some measurement when I go look at them).
And I plan on having one image carry across 2 pages as a spread. Are there any tips on how to make this look nice when using a binding?
Any other suggestions for setting up the document (for multiple pages,etc.) would be most welcome. I think I'll head over to borders and scan thru some books in the meantime.
there isnt 'universal rules' that cover all types of binding. ya got to get the binding set then set it based on that.
why are u making it hard on yourself printing on oversize and cutting it down. if its 3 ring, why not just print it on 8.5x11?
my printer will print to the edges and many do now based on the paper type. if you committed to printing to the edges in the long haul you might think about getting a printer that can do this straight away. it will pay for itself with paper/cutting quickly.
auto, if your book will not lay flat due to the bind, you will have to accomodate for the any images that are crossing over the gutter. i would create document that has facing pages, create frame on each page, place the image in each of those frames so that the right side of the image in on the right page frame and the left side of the image is in the left page frame. once you get them to match up, you will have to nudge the image in one of the frames towards the edge of the page. how much? it's trial and error. it depends on the type of bind and how thick the book is. you should be able to get something you are happy with though so that it visually looks correct after binding.
if you have common elements on all pages, spend some time learning about master pages. if you are using the same size text and/or same style of paragraphs, spend some time learning about character and paragraph styles. both of these things will save you a lot of time when creating the document and if you decide to change something mid-way. for example, if you want to change the type size of your header after your book is complete, you'd only have to go to your paragraph or character style, change it there and it will change all instances that you have applied that style to.
hope that helps.
thanks for the replies.
ted - i have an epson 4000, and it can do side to side, but not top and bottom, bleeds. cost way too much to replaced. (though it would be nice to have a PS color laser right about now...)
yeah, i jumped the gun about binding specs. i'll go to a bookbinder tomorrow and check out their more econimical offerings.
e - thanks for the tips. i certainly will have common elements, and will take the time to "standarize" the whole.
I made this portfolio using double sided ink jet paper and my home canon i950 printer and InDesign.
e makes very good points...you can even make copies of masters and make them subMasters that have the master element then say a chapter element that changes.
I printed chapter pages on ink jet velum front and back.
you can get kinkos to glue bind and you get them to use chipboard they use for cutting as the cover and back. They will say they dont use chipboard...but they have it...just have to guide them.
I think it looks alot better than wire binding and is a ton cheaper than getting a small run of hard bound portfolios.
here are some examples...the chapter page in green is velum printed on both sides.
Also consider wire comb binding or "spiral o" binding. (Don't do plastic spiral) Having images and even text in certain instances print "through" the binding area can look very interesting. Be mindful of the paper stock you choose: 30 pound uncoated offset paper might be kind of see-through, for example. Seeing the shapes of images or text through a page can be distracting, esp in a portfolio. And check your guides to make sure everything lines up down to the pica. It's very easy to overlook this.
I used In Design for my first portfolio and the master page is really key. I also had to trim my pages in order to get full bleed. If you only have a few pages to trim, I think it will save you money to do it yourself. Also, I don't know if jasoncross was talking about the tape bind that Kinkos offers (It sounds like the glue bind but I wasn't sure) but I wouldn't use the tape bind. It looks really nice at first but after several portfolio viewings the glue breaks down. I have a friend that used it and many pages are starting to come loose. You can also bring in your own board for front and back covers, you can use black mat board, or other colors. Someone said that Kinko's will tell thay can't bind board but they usually can. They told me they couldn't but they ended up being able to bind it. Good Luck...
jason, that's totally nice, and i could imagine use of the master made things much much easier. i've settled on the binding and paper choices, now i need to figure out how to use more common elements throughout my pages. i don't see how i can use a master layout for all of them, since some projects are short (can fit on 1 page) while others take up to 6 pages - and they will require a more individual approach. my tentative plan is to tailor the layouts accordingly, but keep character and paragraph styles consistent throughout. kind of like a magazine.
auto, you can set up more than one master. think about the types of pages you will have. as a simple example, you could set up a master for text only pages and then set up one for image only pages.
sullivan is right about the tape binding at kinko's. I wanted to use it becasue it looks clean, but the guy working there told me that after about 2-4 times of flipping through, pages would start to fall out.
tape! what crap. i have my masters, god i need a job.
-not grad masters. adobe masters, expected 2005.
I have had mine for over a year and its still together...looks way better than cheesy Office Depot wire bindings.
another option is hand stitch...did that for the Predock Autry proposal and we got short listed, so it didn't hurt.
It might depend on the weight of the cover stock now that I think about it...If you use 100# or higher it will more than likely turn to crap after a bit...anyway...however you do it, best of luck!
i've done a number of different japanese hand stitched binds for various books. doesn't take long if you aren't putting together that many. it does look nice and isn't that hard to learn.
an admissions person and selection committee member told me that designing yor portfolio for a quick flip-through is helpful & appreciated.
so that's good to consider as well
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