thanks, beta...always good to know about the nitty-gritty.

it's actually a little more complicated than just modelling paste.... (make sure you use the kind with marble dust in it, that gives it the 'sheen').
it is a process of layering, much akin to their approach to design.
you put down a layer, and sand it, put down another layer, and sand it, put down another layer, and sand it .....this lets coloration differences and texture variations show through from the top layer to the base layer. the key is to paste and work on large sheets of your modelling material before you actually cut out the pieces for the model (you have to paste both sides of the material or it will warp to the point of un-usability/poor quality), this way, once the model is assembled all you have to do is touch up the edges with the left over paste, give it a once or twice over sanding and you're done.

it is very time consuming and labor intensive (that's why you never see a working model or study model pasted up..) usually just done for exhibition/presentation models, but the results speak
for themselves.

I'd disagree that it's hard and time consuming. I made several models that had finishes like that.

1 part stucco 1 part gesso (or modeling paste), fool around with the mix the more liquid, the easier to apply, but the longer to dry

I'd take whatever I was using to apply, get a hunk on it, then dab in a little acrylic paint, when you apply it gives an abstract and random look, pretty cool

you can sand if you want, but you can get it smooth enough that you don't have to


I always did this after my model was done. Just mask out the really close areas and you'll be fine.

You can get a large model done in a few hours, no problem.


Play with the acrylics, you can do some great stuff with them.

Oh, keep in mind it adds a lot of weight to the model, so make it strong enough to support the weight.


This looks particularly good with bass wood models.

Fun stuff, and it's easy.

Trace,

Thanks for the info. That's really helpful. It seems, though, that you could get the same effect with just gesso and acrylic paint. Why bother with the heftier stuff such as modeling paste or stucco? Won't it start to change the form or add thickness to your model?

trace is correct, sanding isn't really necessary, a palette knife is (or a scraper or anything else to spread thin layers). One of the best ways to get a good surface is to do the boards first, then cut and assemble the model and use the left over gesso paste to fill the edges.

It's important to remember that the paint, gesso, modeling paste (I've substituted drywall compound- I'd be hesitant to use stucco as it is a cementitious material, so once the chemical reation starts, you have to toss it.) are all water based, so the material you are making the model out of has to be thick enough to resist warping. Double-ply chipboard is really good.

If you can, prime both sides of whatever material you are working on with gesso first.

....larry, there is a ton of ways to get something done quick and dirty and there's a lot of things that look good, i was responding directly to the question of how morphosis and holl do their exhibition/presentation finished models.
it IS a time consuming process (just ask any of the interns who have to make them) and to get a kick ass finish, there IS a ton of sanding/layering.
acrylic paint is mixed with the marble dust paste for coloring, and the reason for all the sanding is to get the reflective and nicely worked finish that looks so nice in all the glossy mags.
i suggest only to use the marble dust based modelling paste, it doesn't shrink/crack ,it dries quickly, and when it's dry it's nearly waterproof. 2-ply museum board is the best material to make the model out of (takes paste the best/strong) when pasting (again, both sides of the material should be pasted or it will warp the material)

we mixed stucco in for speed. It dried quickly and didn't move after you put it down. Cheap, too, if I recall correctly, compared to gesso.

I tried sanding once, but it didn't look any different.

That kind of finish for a model is so affected, and it's way overdone in architecture schools. Why would you want your model to look like it was made in 1985?

TO BE ANTI-BLOB OF COURSE!

"it is a process of layering, much akin to their approach to design. "

i'm sorry but this is one of the cheesiest lines i've ever heard. lol!

Try mixing a little paint and and drywall mud. Leave it a little streaky. Apply and sand.

Try mixing your morniing feces with 1/2 cup of piss and drywall mud. Leave it a little streaky. Apply and sand. let cool on a wire rack for 12 minutes and then lick all over.

the answer to the original question: interns

interns working for free....