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Stainless steel wall

test999

Here is a construction question for ya all . . .

I am doing some reno work in my kitchen and want to apply stainless steel sheeting to the wall (painted, latex) behind the stove and fridge. I need to know how I can fasten the sheet metal to the wall. Off the top of my head I am thinking an industrial grade adhesive should be fine. But, because I have limited experience with stainless steel I thought I would throw it out to the group. I do know though that I don't want an adhesive that come out a caulking tube. It does not apply evenly so I would prefer something I can roll on, brush on or spray.

Morgan

 
Dec 21, 04 4:30 pm
zacm

since steel expands and contracts significantly with even minor temp variation (which the condensor coil behind your fridge will provide), surface adhesives are not a viable option. ill think some more about what non visible options are available to you.

a quick question, when you say "want to apply stainless steel sheeting to the wall (painted, latex)" do you mean that you are going to paint stainless steel?

Dec 21, 04 5:28 pm  · 
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test999

I wont be painting the stainless steel just to clarify. I want to keep the surface free from any fasteners so this might be a challenge. I have got some meetings with some high end kitchen installation contractors to find out how they do this.

Heat through the oven will be high too. Hmmm. . .

Dec 21, 04 5:32 pm  · 
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zacm

essentially you can use continuous sheets and fold the top and bottom down 180 deg, then slide the sheet onto formed L's top and bott. this is going to require some pretty tight tolerances, and custom fabrication, but could do the trick. all you would see is the vertical seams. i would suggest bending the vert edge 90 deg. to provide some rigidity and so you see a nicer joint.

this may or may not make any sense. now we know how we all go through so much trace paper.

Dec 21, 04 5:42 pm  · 
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J3

I agree w/zacm.
...the best solution for this would be the use of a heavy ga. sheet s.s. with loose joints/channel on top securing it + allowing for movement. I have seen some kitchen consultants screw thinner plates to the sub-wall and you end up with bowing of the plates which looks like crap. The screws also become a health problem when oil/debris accum. and rots.

Dec 21, 04 5:45 pm  · 
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test999

zacm:

I think I got ya. That should work but will like you say will require good manufacturing. The 90deg. turn to provide a clean corner is a great idea. If I am going to do it I should do it right.

Dec 21, 04 5:45 pm  · 
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test999

zacm:

I think I got ya. That should work but will like you say will require good manufacturing. The 90deg. turn to provide a clean corner is a great idea. If I am going to do it I should do it right.

Dec 21, 04 5:45 pm  · 
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zacm

if you design it and give specific specs, a sheet steel place should be able to do it n/p. i dont know where you are located, but if you are in the bay area feel free to email me and i can point you in the right direction.

Dec 21, 04 5:53 pm  · 
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pia555

Why couldn't you just use contact cement. The kind they use for Formica. Use a roller to apply. Little to no buildup. If you ve ever worked with the stuff you know its impossible to get the piece apart once it's stuck on. It will allow movement though. If there is some type of interlocking or overlapping seam then that should help keep everything looking good. Theres even some high end high pressure laminates that have a stainless finish

Dec 21, 04 8:49 pm  · 
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newstreamlinedmodel

If you are doing this you self don’t try to bend or fold the sheet. Get a sheet metal shop to do it with a break so it looks clean.

What I’ve always done (in my previous life as a fabricator) is to use either contact adhesive or liquid nails out of a can. You can buy these plastic trowel things that have sort of crenulated teeth on them so that you lay down an even amount with out leaving lumps or scraping all the adhesive off.

I would worry about the adhesive successfully sticking the metal to the latex paint but then the paint peeling off the wall. Do a test if you can and if this is a problem, or if you think it looks better, get your sheet metal shop to notch the corners and bend the sides of the stainless up into a shallow pan that fits over a piece of birch ply or MDF fastened to the wall. You can then glue the metal to the panel. Maybe you could make it the same depth as the backsplash or something.

Dec 21, 04 9:22 pm  · 
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newstreamlinedmodel

Oh yeah, put the adhesive on both pieces to be glued… but you knew that.

Dec 21, 04 9:23 pm  · 
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newstreamlinedmodel

And de-grease the stainless with acetone or liquor thinner or something.

Dec 21, 04 9:38 pm  · 
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