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painted glass backsplash tips?

R.A. Rudolph

Anyone have experience with making a painted glass backsplash?

We will use 3/8" tempered glass (recommended by the glass guy), but have concerns about seeing adhesive through the paint and or peeling the paint off somehow. We want to do the paint ourselves so we can get a custom color and also save $$ (to have a specialty company do it will be prohibitively expensive). Have heard about applying a fiberglass backing to the paint before adhering to the wall, but haven't had much luck finding other info.

Thanks for your help if you have any tips!

 
Oct 16, 07 3:15 pm
mdler

I would look at automotive laquers or possibly having an enamel baked on (with heat)

Oct 16, 07 3:52 pm  · 
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JG

go for laminated glass with the color in between

Oct 16, 07 4:19 pm  · 
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Sarah Hamilton

you could possible drill, and bolt it to the wall; could be a nice accent.

Oct 16, 07 4:35 pm  · 
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Living in Gin

If it's tempered glass, the holes would need to be pre-drilled before the glass is tempered.

Oct 16, 07 4:39 pm  · 
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corbusier4eva

I think that the paint used on the back of glass is not your garden variety acrylic. Gin is right, you can't drill through tempered glass, but you wouldn't want to use untempered.

How about using some nice exposed metal clips at regular intervals / at the corners? Can you capture the top or bottom edge in a metal channel that is affixed to the wall?

3/8" sounds way overkill...1/4" should be fine if its continuously supported against a wall.

Oct 16, 07 6:50 pm  · 
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myriam

I wouldn't do the laminated glass; we did it with 1/4" tempered with straight back-painting and mounted it right over a hot commercial stove with no probs. We did have a lot of back and forth over adhesive, etc because we were concerned... it turned out to be a lot less of a concern than I had thought. I'll see if I can dredge up the research we did, and the final spec. Can't think of it off the top of my head.

I'm pretty sure we just used mirror mastic, actually. But the paint was something special, I think. Hmm maybe it was 3/8" after all. Curse my memory. I'll try to check my documentation.

Oct 16, 07 6:54 pm  · 
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corbusier4eva

3/8" or 1/2" is what you'd use for a freestanding tempered glass shower enclosure....

Oct 16, 07 6:59 pm  · 
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haruki

Bolts through the face 12" o.c. could look very architectural, though not sure if you are going for the industrial look or not. I'm thinking maybe even lag bolts could be cool.

Oct 16, 07 8:02 pm  · 
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R.A. Rudolph

We want it clean - no visible fasteners or channel. We didn't go with laminate because you will see some of the edges, and also the backsplash will match a desk top which we thought would be too thick as laminate.

Someone suggested silicone only aling the top & bottom edges, but I'm not sure that's enough to hold it. Pieces are about 18" high, longest is 7'-6".

Oct 16, 07 9:05 pm  · 
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snooker

When working with silk screening....I was always told to use water based glues when working with oil paints and vis versa when using a laytex base paint use an oil based screening material. I think this would be true of what your trying to achieve.

oil base paint= water base adhesive

Water based paint= oil based adhesive

Oct 16, 07 9:16 pm  · 
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binary

paint the back of the glass with your image
then paint the rest of the back of the glass with the color of the wall (if it's a one tone)....

have the glass guy put a bevel/chamfer on the edge of the glass that will be against the wall...then you can silicone the groove/wall without the visible appearance......


3m makes some good mounting tape also........

i would use metal clips though to hold the glass in...so you can remove the glass and clean it and the wall...

b


and a 7'6" piece of glass at 1/4" will cost you some change also

Oct 16, 07 9:52 pm  · 
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njp

R.A., the silicone idea is your best bet if you don't want to expose any fasteners. i use silicone alone (w/ no clips) all the time to fasten shower glass. talk to a glazier for a recommendation on the specific type to use. good luck.

Oct 16, 07 11:29 pm  · 
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SDR

Opaque paint as a final coat -- and/or adhesive applied as a smooth and consistent coat (no tooth marks) -- perhaps applied to the glass instead of/in addition to the wall ?

Oct 16, 07 11:43 pm  · 
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r.a. rudolph,

apply regular construction adhesive. you won't see anything. make 1/4" beaded 's' shapes with the chaulking gun and stick the glass.
make sure you use the right kind of paint (no iron in paint etc.)
this is a pretty common project. melrose glass is very good and experienced, so is malibu glass. 7.5' x 1.5' is pretty easy.

here is a sample of what i am saying. wet location is the same.



Oct 17, 07 12:05 am  · 
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SDR

Right -- translucent glass tile is where you can't have textured thinset.

Oct 17, 07 12:13 am  · 
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21Ronin

Why not use a backpainted glass product from Bendheim? They can produce custom colors for their backpainted glass. I don't think that you will have problems of seeing the adhesive though the paint and backing.

Apr 23, 09 8:24 pm  · 
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drums please, Fab?

that's beautiful, man!

Apr 23, 09 9:53 pm  · 
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kanu

TGA,

Are you using tempered glass in those backslashes? How do you put the holes in for your outlets? before tempering?

Jun 16, 09 11:45 pm  · 
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blah

Interesting, I learned something. Thanks!

Jun 17, 09 2:01 am  · 
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don't do glass backsplash in a place where there is a lot of calcium in the local water. will never look good.

Jun 17, 09 7:51 am  · 
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drums please, Fab?

how do i find out more information?

should i go to http://www.glassprimer.com?

*confused*

Jun 17, 09 11:50 am  · 
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LB_Architects

FRaC has a good point. Is it http://www.glassprimer.com that we go to for all our backpainting glass needs, or www.glassprimer.com? Do I need to put the http:// in front? You posted both...then you posted one that just said "link." Better clear it up for us again, Mr. Billy "The Glass Artist" Mays.

Jul 2, 09 11:42 pm  · 
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shireen

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Dec 9, 15 7:46 am  · 
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