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Indo Inquisition

13 weeks in India

 

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Jul '12 - Jan '13

 
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    The Backstreets of Delhi

    amlocke Jul 29 '12 3

    The buffet of olfactory stimulation could almost be more descriptive than my eyes in Delhi. First the distinct smell of rotting trash, pungent enough to remember for life. Then, as you walk past the street eateries, you're hit with chicken tikka masala, and not just the smell, but the feel of smoke entering your eyes. Nan is prepared in makeshift oil drums, and fills your nostrils with a warm muted smell of something freshly baked. Continuing past the eateries, a blank wall resonates years of urine, stained a darker hue of brown. Then the smell of car exhaust, which strangely reminds me of home. A random repetition of these blends into an olfactory orchestra- an ode to Delhi.

    The rule of law is oblique, as what would seem grossly illegal is shrugged, while the police harass motorists who seem to have done no more wrong than the fellow beside them. The simple task of crossing the street is a gamble with one's own life, and quite similar to the game popularly known as 'Frogger.' I found the best method for such a gamble was to place my chips with a more experienced player than myself. I would thus wait until another poor soul chose to cross in a similar direction as myself. When such a friend arrived, I made sure he was on the delivery end of traffic, swearing that if he was struck, I could be the one to catch him.

    At the end of the day, a man needs a little sport to keep him fit. I found my opportunity while attempting to document a cricket game. A photo was immediately demanded and a payment of 10 rupees was needed for myself to participate in one round. I duly noted to my new friends that I was the greatest cricket player to ever live, and that if any rupees were to be exchanged, it should be in my direction, for they were about to receive a lesson in professional cricket. An agreement was made at no exchange, and I batted first, gaining 4 points in a great smash to what is presumably left field. Great cheers were heard, as passers by became my fans. Next I pitched, gaining two wickets for the win! I was invited back to play tomorrow.

    The local barber shop

    The street of my hotel was quite clean

    Like Florence and Rome, public water fountains are readily available

    The great connoisseur of nan

    Surprisingly graffiti in Delhi is difficult to find 

    My all star cricket team

     

     
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About this Blog

An Indo Inquisition is a thirteen-week train expedition across India. The journey will document the influences of international modernism and British occupation, as well as compare the effects of wealth accumulation, culture, religion, and poverty with economic growth and their effect on the built environment.

Authored by:

  • amlocke

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