good luck trying to find "modern architecture" in those cities. In my opinion, italians are 'closet modernists'. They produce clean beautiful modern interiors, but their architecture is overtly classicist. Do a search on Carlo Scarpa, he has a handful of projects in Verona and Venice, including the "main gate" of th architecture school in venice (IUAV). The Giardini, in the far east end of Venice, is an ecclectic collection of pavillions; some modern (scandinavian/nordic pavillion) some not (American pavillion is a Jeffersonian neo classicist piece of b.s.). Ths is also where they hold the Venice Art and Architecture Biennale. If you are still in Europe in September, the architecture biennale is a must see.

IN the meantime, enjoy italy's rich wealth of historic architecture, and buy yourself a tick to the Nederlands to see something modern.

Siena is a great city. I spent a month there last summer. Explore the city thoroughly...there are a lot of cool spots hidden around, especially on the second story of some buildings. Avoid the restaurants in the campo. The best restaurants are in the Duomo area. There is a gallery across the street from the Duomo in the corner by the old hospital which has a very nice modern interior. There is also a great modern art gallery on Via di Citta where you can find lots of art and architecture books.

If you have enough time, hit up San Giminano. Find a little restaurant there that is somewhere at the edge of the city (you have to go through some residential courtyards). You will know you have found it because its outdoor terrace is situated at the edge of the city with one of the most incredible views of the valley you will ever see. You have to make reservations in advance. I forgot the name of the place, but if you ask around someone might know.

these are a little in between your listed destinations, but check out Aalto's church in Riola, Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. also, Corb's L'Esprit Nouveau pavilion in Bologna.

Jefferson's architecture is classified as American Neoclassical not Classical.

Scarpa's restoration of Castelvecchio in Verona


interior view towards courtyard


interior view of


courtyard view with intervention by Peter Eisenman (2004)

In Venice, go hunt for Scarpa's gate to the city's University Architecture School (which, on a map, is on the side of the city somewhat near
Piazzale Roma; the University should be marked) Also there is an odd (and for Venice, very land-locked) bank on the same side of the canal as San Marco, just two campos south of Rialto. I realize these are vague directions but after getting there you'll see why; giving precise directions in Venice is impossible, and you _will_ get lost. Anyhow, regarding the bank, I'm definitely not saying that it is a beauty or the epitome of modern architecture; the most interesting thing about it is that in what would be a campo surrounded by buildings from the 16th century, instead sits a building from the 1960's. The contrast is startling, as is the ability to walk around the entire building -- another rarity for dense and canal-laden Venice.

if you want modern, go to como. some terragni and lots of just unknown [by me] architects' buildings that are just plain nice. terragni @ como: the casa del fascio [easy to find], the sant'elia kindergarden and the monument to the fallen.

there are also 2 apartment buildings by terragni in milan if you want more.

and the villa bianca in seveso

archinform has maps and links to find all:
http://www.archinform.net/arch/9.htm?ID=5de761bbc1e3bbbffd295e1fbca3f569

[i haven't seen the kindergarden or the villa bianca but oh boy i wish i had]

sant'elia in como is terragni at his best. good call aml.

thanks ap. i just learned about the kindergarden after being there... ouch.

also, talking about sant'elia... some nice futurist paintings in the venice guggenheim museum.