I was thinking mineral wool but the hatch pattern is wrong.

One looks like radiant flooring so likely rigid or mortar. Mineral wool could not do that slope drain thing either.

mudbed or stiff sand mix

I agree it's some kind of mortar given the radiant tubes and the slope at the top on the other red dot.

Agree with taz and graphemic. It's a cement mortar topping/infill. It's being used to embed the hydronic heating tubes on the floor, and to fill in the void behind the brick/stone/whatever veneer at the building base to direct water in the cavity out to weep holes. In US best practice, the masonry cavity would probably not be filled in like that, but have a sill flashing to the weeps instead. But they might have filled it because the cavity goes below the soil line (generally not a good idea).

ok, thanks. Would you know the architectural terms for both, under the floor and in the wall?

At the floor, it would be something like "fluid-applied cementitious underlayment" (aka "Gypcrete") or "lightweight cement topping". For the masonry cavity fill, probably "fill with mortar continuous to drain plane, slope to weeps" or something like that.

if the floor assembly is representing hydronic heating tubes, there would be a separate form for them, typically they are laid down directly on substrate or held in guides; yes it's drawn simplistically/diagrammatically.

@gwharton could I just call it masonry cavity fill

Non, I thought we were doing the usual snarky thing. That section detail is too out of context for me to know what any of it is.

from what I googled, I thought that too.

glad my years of experience can be whittled down to a google search; reassuring

lol that what it looked like, after hours of searching and guessing. what would you recommend I go with?

Yeah. Also the crazy stress concentrator in the concrete from the floor slab to that thick bench/wall thingy. No way that isn't going to crack to pieces in a couple of seasonal temperature cycles.

It could be a section taken thru a tiny cantilever niche?

Bishop Edward King Chapel by Níall McLaughlin Architects by The Bartlett School of Architecture UCL - Issuu

I was digging around through some of the photos of this project, and I think the (really weird) profile of that concrete cantilever in the OP's detail is due to it being cut through a side part of a diagonally tapered corbel. But maybe not? I dunno.

Yep - Image 21 of 22

Bishop Edward King Chapel / Niall McLaughlin Architects | ArchDaily

An amazing building. Love the wood structure. The very small bit of concrete connecting the bottom does look off, as does the filled cavity at the bottom. I assume they know what they are doing, but I would be nervous with the latter in a rainy climate.

Mclaughlin's Auckland Tower is also impressive. Especially for being in Britain and on a heritage site. 

thanks, I love the guy, he was a tutor of mine.

does that mean it's not accurate?

It means two things: 

1) The drawings are simplified for graphic presentation 

2) European hatch conventions differ from North American standards so when US students copy from Detail magazine it is fairly obvious.

I would make the hatching a lighter colour. Have you learned anything about line weights? Look at the original detail and look at yours. Why are some of their lines heaver and darker than yours? The scale of your concrete hatch is too big. Does anyone actually use that concrete hatch type anymore? We always show concrete with a solid hatch. Not going to to lie but I dont get your window detailing, what is supporting the window frame.

I’m sure I had a ski jacket in late 80s that had that concrete hatch pattern. Looked good in teal, purple at gold.

Additionally a footing is the pad at the bottom of a foundation wall. What you have shown is either the foundation wall or concrete grade beam, but not a footing.

NS this what I picture you wearing 

That’s it but black background. Matching snow pants too.

Dazzle camouflage!

So you can't see the line weight because it's not a good quality image, but I have now made it thicker.

@Almosthip does the scale of the concrete hatch matter if the scale of the building is shown..?

The scale of the hatch always matters

@Almosthip it was due to scale the line weight wasn't obvious but I've changed it, thanks for the pointer. do window frame is supported by a reinforced concrete block.

Yes, it's the BS niche (ArchDaily link from above):

those are awesome. I wonder how well it actually worked. With my slowly fading eyesight i am starting to have a hella time seeing things that are not the exact right distance. Chances are all they saw was a white blur ;-)

he's also an awesome guy.

I know this is unsolicited advice but . . these are just my opinion so it's not worth much.  

Leaders - I find it helpful to have them angled - it's easier to read and harder to confuse the leaders as part of what's being built. 

Color - most contractors will not have colored prints - it may not be a good idea to rely on color to distinguish things in CD's. 

Line weight - use bolt outlines for the the outer edge of the assembly you're cutting.

Hatch patterns - make them a 50% grey tone. 

Hatch scale - should look consistent within a given detail and be consistent across various detail scales (just like text height)

Line weights dawg, use them. Also, those leaders are terrible.

try to organize the labels in a consecutive order, don't put the top material all the way down between the bottom ones, it's confusing.

Godawful leaders.

@where are the lines weights wrong? I gave used a thicker weight for the cut outline, and black lanes of the same weight for the materials, structure of the building not in cut as the consistent line weight and everything else even lighter...

I usd* a thicker...

Try using a gray tone for the hatching like Odd said - it's indistinguishable from the assembly line weights. Tip I learned was take couple steps back from your screen/printout to see if it's still clear.

I'm still recovering from shoulder surgery so I can't get outdoors much. I figured I'd take 30 minuets to do a quick re-work of the detail with the items I was referring to. I'm not sure about the wall interior so please don't take the assembly and noting too seriously.

why would you insulate the external / outside part of the slab ? … did you even know where the section is actually cut from ? The guy won the Sterling prize for gawd sake .. he would roll his eye to see that you draw anything PVC in his bld… : let the kid does his homework

Sorry if the was confusing pj-heavy. 

 As I sated above this sketch was only regarding the graphical items I had previously mentioned and the OP had asked for clarification on. I literally copied the notes and various components from the OP's detail.  This was done to show a method to illustrate the assembly.  

I am aware that various components and assemblies are incorrect. I specifically mentioned not to take the notes or assembly too seriously. I wasn't about to do the OP's work for him. 

 Again, I apologize if that wasn't clear.

Just in case I wasn't clear you need to read my response to pj-heavy above.

Typically you don't place insulation under an exterior slab unless you have hydronic heat in it. Hydronic heat are tubes of glycol or some other hard to freeze liquid that are heated. Systems like that can be used in moderate climates for high cost projects to reduce the buildup of snow and ice.

could I get away with it?

I don't see why you'd want to do it. It would be a waste of money and materials.