Are these details correct and complete?


It is a building with a wood skeleton structure. It is for my final and I don't know if im doing it good or where my faults are or how i need to fix them? It would mean the world if someone could help.

May 20, 24 11:49 am

not sure you've shared enough for big picture answers and the resolution of the images isn't first glance, I wonder if there should be a gutter behind the glass guardrail? the waterproofing seems incomplete. The insulation also fails to separate interior from exterior.

May 20, 24 12:04 pm  · 
1  · 

It's hard to tell with the resolution. I'd expect that the insulation is sloping both directions to a scupper or a drain. I don't think a gutter adds anything.

May 23, 24 3:20 am  · 

When is this due?  

May 20, 24 12:08 pm  · 
Wilma Buttfit

There are people who will work for free but they don’t tend to hang out here. 

May 20, 24 12:57 pm  · 

I'd provide constructive criticism for the OP if they provided more information, asked a concise question, and provided readable drawings.

May 20, 24 1:20 pm  · 
2  · 
atelier nobody

I'd happily do a complete redline under the same conditions, just because I'm bored.

May 22, 24 7:31 pm  · 

I'm calling bot on this one.

May 22, 24 2:08 pm  · 

Is this something you should know? Aren't there T.A.'s to ask these questions?

May 22, 24 2:30 pm  · 
Non Sequitur

I think you need at least one, maybe 2, layers of 15.9mm gypsum board for your header.  Make sure to specify select structural gypsum board or else it won't work.

May 22, 24 4:01 pm  · 

How could you forget about the muffler bearing? It's required under IBC, 1.21.1985

May 22, 24 7:28 pm  · 

it's fine for a student.  you'll learn.  it takes time.  i'll give you this; there is a vent at the top of the attic.  there also needs to be a vent at the bottom.  or maybe on the sides.

May 22, 24 8:22 pm  · 

I’m going to make a lot of assumptions and spitball on that deck detail for kicks and giggles…

The waterproofing/roofing doesn’t properly terminate on the outside end, top of that wood beam is going to get fked up. The shoe for the glass rail is way to small, going to need to be much deeper, and you’ll need to give a little more space offset for the finish. The gap between the deck and the glass is too large, you should have the shoe flush to the top of the deck and extend the deck out, I’d leave ½” between the two for cleanliness (if it got reviewed by something like a CASp, you might get pinged for anything more than ½” due to wheelchair wheels getting stuck). You’d probably want to wrap a piece of metal flashing all the way around the front of that beam and up under the glazing system in front for protection.

Since this is wood framed construction, and you don’t need to insulate the exterior, I’d probably use sloped plywood (maybe with a layer of roofboard on top if required) rather than rigid insulation to do your sloping. This would make it simpler, since otherwise you probably need to add a layer of roof board on top of the insulation for the waterproofing/roofing substrate, and also a layer of plywood under the insulation to support it between joists. You can also just do that version with plywood on top and bottom and rip framing instead of insulation, but given the design I don’t even think that’s needed. Now you need to close the interior from the exterior and replace that insulation you removed. At the glazing system separating the interior and exterior you should have blocking between joists going up to the bottom of the plywood substrate (which you’d probably need for the glazing system anyway). On the exterior side of that you should add something as an air barrier, id’ probably just do an actual fluid-applied air barrier product, even though you could use something like sheathing technically. I think on the interior you would stuff the space with some thick batt insulation…. Or … now that I think about it, if I wanted to be unsustainable, I’d probably just do a contemporary house insulating move and throw a thin layer of closed cell spray foam on the back of the blocking and underside of the sloped plywood (1 ½”) which will serve as the air barrier, and not do the fluid applied…. then fill the rest down with open cell spray foam. The fluid applied isn’t needed since you’re not getting moisture up under there, and this would span the gaps cleaner… eh… Honesty just sealing the blocking and adding some batt would probably work…

From there your waterproofing/roofing wrapping over the inside beam and seemingly around under the roof is silly. There is no reason to have it there. Both ends of the roofing should terminate into metal flashing in reality. You’d probably want to wrap the waterproofing/roofing up over the beam and the blocking and then stop it. Then you’d have a metal sill flashing that follows the same logic up the face and over the blocking but turns up behind the glazing system with a little ½” water dam. You’d set that in sealant. Then have the glazing system on top of that with a small gap and some sealant and backer rod. This wouldn’t be set in the sealant though, rather it’s applied on the outside and inside after the glazing system is in place.

Your inside beam should have a gap between it and the ceiling product whatever it is.

Your floor joists look pretty small.

Ok, I can’t really read anything and just felt like thinking about it… I am board, tired, and going to sleep.

May 23, 24 4:31 am  · 

looking too long at wood frame assembly details makes boards of all of us!

May 24, 24 6:55 am  · 
1  · 

I am become board, material of buildings.

May 24, 24 1:45 pm  · 

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