I'm learning the ropes of roof framing and have come across an issue with my cabin design. The ridge gap at the top of the sheathing is ~3.5" on each side. I could fill it with a thin strip of OSB, but also plan to put a ridge vent there and am not sure how that all might fit and/or be structurally sound, considering that thin strip would probably be less than 2" wide in order to leave enough vent gap.
My other idea is just to close the gap completely and vent it another way, of which I still think that 3.5" thick of OSB strip might not be great.
I saw that there are wider ridge vents, but I wasn't sure if that large of a ridge gap is good for snow/etc. FYI - that's a ridge board and I put the thin strip in there to make that gap 1 3/4".
What AA said. That or you can change the spacing of your first plywood sheet to be a half sheet. You're going to want to stagger the joints anyways so . . .
I've been there. You're correct that a 3 1/2" rip of OSB will not have enough structural integrity for this location. The solution is simple--rip off the upper few inches of the top sheet of sheathing and install a rip about 10-12" wide, leaving about 2" (1" on each side) for the ridge vent.
I've also personally just put a 1x up there to create a way stronger ridge substrate to nail to. This level of detail is sorta means/methods for your roofer to deal with though, unless you're just being extra and have fee to burn in your CD set.
Thanks Chad, but I do make mistakes. I just got a call from a builder that the house they just tore down and were planning to build a new one on the original foundation doesn't have footings! That's going to be a fun change order...
Apr 20, 23 11:58 am ·
·
Wood Guy
Jose, good point, though it depends on the sheathing thickness. I usually spec 5/8" which would hide a 3/4" board under laminated shingles, but if the roofing is metal, or the sheathing is 7/16" or 1/2", a 1x would probably be visible. (An owner/builder I've been consulting to just had standing seam metal roofing installed. They had used a mix of 5/8" and 3/4" furring strips and it's obvious under the roofing. Oops.)
yeah, I posted and then was like ... "oh, they're using OSB, so probably 1/2"... oh well, woodguy will probably explain
Apr 20, 23 3:27 pm ·
·
damiolek
Thanks Wood Guy (and everybody else for chiming in). I'll do that rip off the top. I also didn't mention this in the original post, but I'll def go to a professional at some point. Currently, I just want to get as much of the design down as possible and learn so that I sort of know what I'm talking about in that meeting. Thumbs up.
Thanks for the comments everybody. I googled around for a bit for a good answer, but wasn't coming up with a definitive one. So, it's awesome to have a solid answer this quick. As I mentioned above, I will be going to a professional when I'm far enough along. I have strongly considered design school to be a professional, but multiple health issues have edited that course a bit to now a humbling and googling and a bit less official "degree" in the making. So thanks again.
Ridge gap too wide - fixes?
Hi everybody,
I'm learning the ropes of roof framing and have come across an issue with my cabin design. The ridge gap at the top of the sheathing is ~3.5" on each side. I could fill it with a thin strip of OSB, but also plan to put a ridge vent there and am not sure how that all might fit and/or be structurally sound, considering that thin strip would probably be less than 2" wide in order to leave enough vent gap.
My other idea is just to close the gap completely and vent it another way, of which I still think that 3.5" thick of OSB strip might not be great.
I saw that there are wider ridge vents, but I wasn't sure if that large of a ridge gap is good for snow/etc. FYI - that's a ridge board and I put the thin strip in there to make that gap 1 3/4".
Thoughts?
Thanks!
You should talk to a local roofer.
What AA said. That or you can change the spacing of your first plywood sheet to be a half sheet. You're going to want to stagger the joints anyways so . . .
I've been there. You're correct that a 3 1/2" rip of OSB will not have enough structural integrity for this location. The solution is simple--rip off the upper few inches of the top sheet of sheathing and install a rip about 10-12" wide, leaving about 2" (1" on each side) for the ridge vent.
I've also personally just put a 1x up there to create a way stronger ridge substrate to nail to. This level of detail is sorta means/methods for your roofer to deal with though, unless you're just being extra and have fee to burn in your CD set.
Wood Guy for the win!
I'm being serious damiolek -WG has been doing custom single family residential for decades. He's even written a book about it. I'd listen to him.
Thanks Chad, but I do make mistakes. I just got a call from a builder that the house they just tore down and were planning to build a new one on the original foundation doesn't have footings! That's going to be a fun change order...
Jose, good point, though it depends on the sheathing thickness. I usually spec 5/8" which would hide a 3/4" board under laminated shingles, but if the roofing is metal, or the sheathing is 7/16" or 1/2", a 1x would probably be visible. (An owner/builder I've been consulting to just had standing seam metal roofing installed. They had used a mix of 5/8" and 3/4" furring strips and it's obvious under the roofing. Oops.)
yeah, I posted and then was like ... "oh, they're using OSB, so probably 1/2"... oh well, woodguy will probably explain
Thanks Wood Guy (and everybody else for chiming in). I'll do that rip off the top. I also didn't mention this in the original post, but I'll def go to a professional at some point. Currently, I just want to get as much of the design down as possible and learn so that I sort of know what I'm talking about in that meeting. Thumbs up.
Am I the only one who's like ... " Oh no SB"... Going to spring for Plywood for a roof at least...
I spec Zip system OSB for vented roofs. I do prefer plywood for walls but often end up with Zip OSB there as well.
still doing 3/4" ply on all my personal builds, but haven't seen it on anything with a contractor for years
Wow, I don't think I've ever seen 3/4" plywood (or OSB) on a project other than for subfloors.
Just use spray foam - it will seal up everything! ;)
Ah, spray and pray! I see you've been to my house
Spray foam and flexible flashing - they hold all the buildings together! ;)
Thanks for the comments everybody. I googled around for a bit for a good answer, but wasn't coming up with a definitive one. So, it's awesome to have a solid answer this quick. As I mentioned above, I will be going to a professional when I'm far enough along. I have strongly considered design school to be a professional, but multiple health issues have edited that course a bit to now a humbling and googling and a bit less official "degree" in the making. So thanks again.
This is a forum I enjoy reading: https://www.diychatroom.com/
And the professionals-only sister: https://www.contractortalk.com...
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