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    Santa Fé, Mexico City- a glittering dump of beautiful buildings

    Alec Perkins Aug 6 '13 4

    Thirty years ago, the area known as Santa Fé was a massive landfill at the edge of Mexico City. When the dump reached capacity (around the same time NAFTA was creating wealth and attracing international businesses), the powers that be decided to transform the dump into the glittering new central business district. For the past 20 years Santa Fé has been growing upwards, described to me as an "American-style" suburb, lacking street life, pedestrians, public transit, or any kind of non-luxury housing.

    Mexican author Rubén Gallo, in the introduction to the Mexico City Reader, writes: "Driving through Santa Fe- one can get there only by car -is an eerie experience: the streets are deserted, and nothing at all distinguishes this suburb from its counterparts in Atlanta, Caracas, or San José. Santa Fé has no history and no identity, it is a typical generic city."

    It sounded so soulless and awful I had to check it out. It turned out to be not as bad as I'd heard. There were in fact, a few bus routes. Everything else was spot on.

    Basically, I found manicured collection of hypermodern mirrored glass and steel towers containing luxury condos and office buildings, sprawling corporate campuses, and giant malls. Wealth and power live there, along with their bodyguards. Santa Fe does have an identity- it just happens to be awful.

    I admit I'm a little biased. For one, I despise suburbs in general because they're basically a tax on everyone else when you consider the amount of infrastructure that has to be extended (which the city as a whole pays for), the extra pollution from cars, the waste of energy and water, the highways to and from which chop up the city, ad nauseum.

    Secondly, there is the nature of isolation. I have no problems with people being rich, it's just dangerous and harmful for everyone else when the rich live in a santized bubble.  Why is this bad? Because you end up with either no connection to the city, or worse, a totally misunderstood one. A lack of empathy coupled with paranoia and misunderstanding in the very people who have immense power over the city is a bad situation.

    Driving to Santa Fe (there's no metro connection there), is more surreal than eerie. As you approach, the neighborhoods you pass through get more and more impoverished, which is logical when you consider that 30 years ago, you were approaching a massive landfill. There's a sudden break of nothingness and bam, the two lane roads become four lanes, the grass on the medians are manicured, and you're passing mirrored skyscrapers.

    The Santa Fe mall is one of the largest in Mexico. It's a really nice mall, immaculate, white stone floors, polished steel, glass railings soaring atria, freezing air conditioned climate, diffuse sunlight. There is both an Emporio Armani and an Armani Exchange, any and all luxury labels, a Chili's, a BestBuy, a Sak's Fifth Avenue, a Sears, Zara, Crocs, and Gap. To navigate the five floors of the mall, the directory is an massive interactive touchscreen which gives you verbal directions to the store you're looking for.

    The upper floors with fewer stores, massive open spaces, and more daylight, feel like an international airport terminal. It was also pretty deserted. I was there on a sunday afternoon. Maybe its the family meal time, but usually, sunday afternoon, malls are packed.

    Leaving, I walked down the avenue between the massive towers, marveling at both the architecture and the uncanny resemblance to Dubai. There was only building on the avenue which had a few stores at the base- a few upscale restaurants and a gourmet grocery store. There were a few people out on the street. All of them were private security guards or parking attendants. 

    The architecture is really all over the place. Without a history or identity, the architects were given free reign for the tabula rasa site, and there a lot of daring which sometimes works, and sometimes fails. In Dubai, the architecture tends to be wildly fantastic- Santa Fe seemed to be more like the Facist and post-facist architecture of EUR. The buldings scream intimidating threats while waving fistfulls of money. Many buildings had helipads.

    I was stopped by the police who told me not to take any photos of any buildings. No explanation why. Welcome to the land of paranoia. I finished my walk to the end of the street, and jumped on a bus to take me away from this sterile wasteland.

     

     
    • 4 Comments

    • Donna SinkDonna Sink
      Aug 6, 13 3:14 pm

      That all does look pretty horrible.

      homme_du_jura
      Aug 7, 13 10:55 am

      It's funny that in the five years since I've been to Mexico City on business, your impression of its expanding western suburbs were similar to mine.  Security guards are everywhere, you can't take pictures of the buildings, and so much of the newer buildings rely on dull and limited palette of materials and details. Street life was near to non-existent, even in some of the city's uptown neighborhoods (Polanco).  I peferred much more the city's historic district, mostly because of its architectural variety even amidst a few of the post-war eyesores here and there.  But as you know, these districts like Santa Fe are becoming pretty much par for the course throughout the world- China, UAE, Moscow, etc.

      lletdownl
      Aug 9, 13 10:28 am

      homme_du_jura is exactly right... these sorts of districts are everywhere now... a few of those images could be chicago's south loop along lake shore drive!

      t a m m u z
      Aug 11, 13 5:05 pm

      I would disagree that in Dubai the architecture is generally wildly fantastic. where exactly, which neighbourhood or district? the overall impact of tall towers might read off as being fantastic to a new comer and someone not used to a certain density of towers (but for the ultimate density of towers, nothing beats New York in soe areas, nearly buit against each other) . there is sleek and glitzy , there is the wannabe sleek and glitzy, and there is a lot of banality....but 'wildly fantastic' - individually- well, either few and far between ...or maybe i don't find really think in terms of fantastic. but certainly, nearly any of those buildings look like thy can be plopped in Dubai - the tallest regluar ones would find a good home in the JLT/Marina area. the horizontal ones might find their place in somewhere like the Media City

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This is a blog which focuses on my observations of an urban and architectural nature of the cities which I live in, work in, and visit.

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