Anyone have experience with making a painted glass backsplash?
We will use 3/8" tempered glass (recommended by the glass guy), but have concerns about seeing adhesive through the paint and or peeling the paint off somehow. We want to do the paint ourselves so we can get a custom color and also save $$ (to have a specialty company do it will be prohibitively expensive). Have heard about applying a fiberglass backing to the paint before adhering to the wall, but haven't had much luck finding other info.
Thanks for your help if you have any tips!
mdler
Oct 16, 07 3:52 pm
I would look at automotive laquers or possibly having an enamel baked on (with heat)
JG
Oct 16, 07 4:19 pm
go for laminated glass with the color in between
Sarah Hamilton
Oct 16, 07 4:35 pm
you could possible drill, and bolt it to the wall; could be a nice accent.
Living in Gin
Oct 16, 07 4:39 pm
If it's tempered glass, the holes would need to be pre-drilled before the glass is tempered.
corbusier4eva
Oct 16, 07 6:50 pm
I think that the paint used on the back of glass is not your garden variety acrylic. Gin is right, you can't drill through tempered glass, but you wouldn't want to use untempered.
How about using some nice exposed metal clips at regular intervals / at the corners? Can you capture the top or bottom edge in a metal channel that is affixed to the wall?
3/8" sounds way overkill...1/4" should be fine if its continuously supported against a wall.
myriam
Oct 16, 07 6:54 pm
I wouldn't do the laminated glass; we did it with 1/4" tempered with straight back-painting and mounted it right over a hot commercial stove with no probs. We did have a lot of back and forth over adhesive, etc because we were concerned... it turned out to be a lot less of a concern than I had thought. I'll see if I can dredge up the research we did, and the final spec. Can't think of it off the top of my head.
I'm pretty sure we just used mirror mastic, actually. But the paint was something special, I think. Hmm maybe it was 3/8" after all. Curse my memory. I'll try to check my documentation.
corbusier4eva
Oct 16, 07 6:59 pm
3/8" or 1/2" is what you'd use for a freestanding tempered glass shower enclosure....
haruki
Oct 16, 07 8:02 pm
Bolts through the face 12" o.c. could look very architectural, though not sure if you are going for the industrial look or not. I'm thinking maybe even lag bolts could be cool.
R.A. Rudolph
Oct 16, 07 9:05 pm
We want it clean - no visible fasteners or channel. We didn't go with laminate because you will see some of the edges, and also the backsplash will match a desk top which we thought would be too thick as laminate.
Someone suggested silicone only aling the top & bottom edges, but I'm not sure that's enough to hold it. Pieces are about 18" high, longest is 7'-6".
snooker
Oct 16, 07 9:16 pm
When working with silk screening....I was always told to use water based glues when working with oil paints and vis versa when using a laytex base paint use an oil based screening material. I think this would be true of what your trying to achieve.
oil base paint= water base adhesive
Water based paint= oil based adhesive
binary
Oct 16, 07 9:52 pm
paint the back of the glass with your image
then paint the rest of the back of the glass with the color of the wall (if it's a one tone)....
have the glass guy put a bevel/chamfer on the edge of the glass that will be against the wall...then you can silicone the groove/wall without the visible appearance......
3m makes some good mounting tape also........
i would use metal clips though to hold the glass in...so you can remove the glass and clean it and the wall...
b
and a 7'6" piece of glass at 1/4" will cost you some change also
njp
Oct 16, 07 11:29 pm
R.A., the silicone idea is your best bet if you don't want to expose any fasteners. i use silicone alone (w/ no clips) all the time to fasten shower glass. talk to a glazier for a recommendation on the specific type to use. good luck.
SDR
Oct 16, 07 11:43 pm
Opaque paint as a final coat -- and/or adhesive applied as a smooth and consistent coat (no tooth marks) -- perhaps applied to the glass instead of/in addition to the wall ?
Orhan Ayyüce
Oct 17, 07 12:05 am
r.a. rudolph,
apply regular construction adhesive. you won't see anything. make 1/4" beaded 's' shapes with the chaulking gun and stick the glass.
make sure you use the right kind of paint (no iron in paint etc.)
this is a pretty common project. melrose glass is very good and experienced, so is malibu glass. 7.5' x 1.5' is pretty easy.
here is a sample of what i am saying. wet location is the same.
SDR
Oct 17, 07 12:13 am
Right -- translucent glass tile is where you can't have textured thinset.
21Ronin
Apr 23, 09 8:24 pm
Why not use a backpainted glass product from Bendheim? They can produce custom colors for their backpainted glass. I don't think that you will have problems of seeing the adhesive though the paint and backing.
drums please, Fab?
Apr 23, 09 9:53 pm
that's beautiful, man!
kanu
Jun 16, 09 11:45 pm
TGA,
Are you using tempered glass in those backslashes? How do you put the holes in for your outlets? before tempering?
A W
Jun 17, 09 2:01 am
Interesting, I learned something. Thanks!
Steven Ward
Jun 17, 09 7:51 am
don't do glass backsplash in a place where there is a lot of calcium in the local water. will never look good.
FRaC has a good point. Is it http://www.glassprimer.com that we go to for all our backpainting glass needs, or www.glassprimer.com? Do I need to put the http:// in front? You posted both...then you posted one that just said "link." Better clear it up for us again, Mr. Billy "The Glass Artist" Mays.
shireen
Dec 9, 15 7:46 am
I would like to introduce you VITROCOAT.
VITROCOAT Produce your own Glass of any colour you want!
Vitrocoat is an additive engineered specifically to enable commonly available paint to be used with Glass, with exceptional results. Vitrocoat enables you to take virtually any basic glass and create your own custom made coloured glass, with durability never achievable with ordinary coatings!
Using Vitrocoat, it is a simple and economical process . The system involves the use of readily available two pack paints, which are computer mixed by the supplier to match virtually any desired colour, together with a third specially developed component - Vitrocoat.
In one simple application, this combination produces beautiful coloured glass with a level of toughness and practicality previously unavailable.
Glass treated with the Vitrocoat system has exceptional resistance to :-
Water - Can be used in wet areas such as kitchens & bathrooms. Abrasion - The coating has very high adhesion and toughness. Chemicals - Solvent resistance means the product can be installed with conventional construction adhesives without staining. UV - Samples have been exposed to accelerated UV exposure tests without any detectable change. Glass coated with Vitrocoat is ideal for use in areas too challenging for other materials. “Vitrocoated” glass has been rigorously tested to international standards of performance*.
Applications.
Showers, Kitchen backsplashes and worktops. All these can be clad with glass of your choice of colour, eliminating the hard to clean grouted areas associated with ceramic tiles. Wall cladding & Ceiling panels – Large panels can be created using textured or plain surfaced glass. Virtually any glass can be used – laminated, tempered, annealed curved etc. Flooring - Used with a waterproof and impact resistant bonding material e.g Betoglass®, Vitrocoated glass can be safely used for flooring applications, even custom made fountains, sinks etc. Furniture - Glass is a practical surface for cleaning and easy maintenance. Furniture panels from Vitrocoated glass are ideal for many applications. Vitrocoated glass can be cut, drilled and edged without chipping of the coating. This makes even on-site cutting a possibility for difficult cladding projects. Vitrocoated glass can be bonded to most substrates with commonly available building adhesives, without fear of later unsightly damage from solvent attack.
*ASTM test results from internationally reputed laboratories are available on request.
Should you require any more information on the product please do not hesitate to contact me on the below contact details.
Anyone have experience with making a painted glass backsplash?
We will use 3/8" tempered glass (recommended by the glass guy), but have concerns about seeing adhesive through the paint and or peeling the paint off somehow. We want to do the paint ourselves so we can get a custom color and also save $$ (to have a specialty company do it will be prohibitively expensive). Have heard about applying a fiberglass backing to the paint before adhering to the wall, but haven't had much luck finding other info.
Thanks for your help if you have any tips!
I would look at automotive laquers or possibly having an enamel baked on (with heat)
go for laminated glass with the color in between
you could possible drill, and bolt it to the wall; could be a nice accent.
If it's tempered glass, the holes would need to be pre-drilled before the glass is tempered.
I think that the paint used on the back of glass is not your garden variety acrylic. Gin is right, you can't drill through tempered glass, but you wouldn't want to use untempered.
How about using some nice exposed metal clips at regular intervals / at the corners? Can you capture the top or bottom edge in a metal channel that is affixed to the wall?
3/8" sounds way overkill...1/4" should be fine if its continuously supported against a wall.
I wouldn't do the laminated glass; we did it with 1/4" tempered with straight back-painting and mounted it right over a hot commercial stove with no probs. We did have a lot of back and forth over adhesive, etc because we were concerned... it turned out to be a lot less of a concern than I had thought. I'll see if I can dredge up the research we did, and the final spec. Can't think of it off the top of my head.
I'm pretty sure we just used mirror mastic, actually. But the paint was something special, I think. Hmm maybe it was 3/8" after all. Curse my memory. I'll try to check my documentation.
3/8" or 1/2" is what you'd use for a freestanding tempered glass shower enclosure....
Bolts through the face 12" o.c. could look very architectural, though not sure if you are going for the industrial look or not. I'm thinking maybe even lag bolts could be cool.
We want it clean - no visible fasteners or channel. We didn't go with laminate because you will see some of the edges, and also the backsplash will match a desk top which we thought would be too thick as laminate.
Someone suggested silicone only aling the top & bottom edges, but I'm not sure that's enough to hold it. Pieces are about 18" high, longest is 7'-6".
When working with silk screening....I was always told to use water based glues when working with oil paints and vis versa when using a laytex base paint use an oil based screening material. I think this would be true of what your trying to achieve.
oil base paint= water base adhesive
Water based paint= oil based adhesive
paint the back of the glass with your image
then paint the rest of the back of the glass with the color of the wall (if it's a one tone)....
have the glass guy put a bevel/chamfer on the edge of the glass that will be against the wall...then you can silicone the groove/wall without the visible appearance......
3m makes some good mounting tape also........
i would use metal clips though to hold the glass in...so you can remove the glass and clean it and the wall...
b
and a 7'6" piece of glass at 1/4" will cost you some change also
R.A., the silicone idea is your best bet if you don't want to expose any fasteners. i use silicone alone (w/ no clips) all the time to fasten shower glass. talk to a glazier for a recommendation on the specific type to use. good luck.
Opaque paint as a final coat -- and/or adhesive applied as a smooth and consistent coat (no tooth marks) -- perhaps applied to the glass instead of/in addition to the wall ?
r.a. rudolph,
apply regular construction adhesive. you won't see anything. make 1/4" beaded 's' shapes with the chaulking gun and stick the glass.
make sure you use the right kind of paint (no iron in paint etc.)
this is a pretty common project. melrose glass is very good and experienced, so is malibu glass. 7.5' x 1.5' is pretty easy.
here is a sample of what i am saying. wet location is the same.
Right -- translucent glass tile is where you can't have textured thinset.
Why not use a backpainted glass product from Bendheim? They can produce custom colors for their backpainted glass. I don't think that you will have problems of seeing the adhesive though the paint and backing.
that's beautiful, man!
TGA,
Are you using tempered glass in those backslashes? How do you put the holes in for your outlets? before tempering?
Interesting, I learned something. Thanks!
don't do glass backsplash in a place where there is a lot of calcium in the local water. will never look good.
how do i find out more information?
should i go to http://www.glassprimer.com?
*confused*
FRaC has a good point. Is it http://www.glassprimer.com that we go to for all our backpainting glass needs, or www.glassprimer.com? Do I need to put the http:// in front? You posted both...then you posted one that just said "link." Better clear it up for us again, Mr. Billy "The Glass Artist" Mays.
I would like to introduce you VITROCOAT.
VITROCOAT
Produce your own Glass of any colour you want!
Vitrocoat is an additive engineered specifically to enable commonly available paint to be used with Glass, with exceptional results. Vitrocoat enables you to take virtually any basic glass and create your own custom made coloured glass, with durability never achievable with ordinary coatings!
Using Vitrocoat, it is a simple and economical process . The system involves the use of readily available two pack paints, which are computer mixed by the supplier to match virtually any desired colour, together with a third specially developed component - Vitrocoat.
In one simple application, this combination produces beautiful coloured glass with a level of toughness and practicality previously unavailable.
Glass treated with the Vitrocoat system has exceptional resistance to :-
Water - Can be used in wet areas such as kitchens & bathrooms.
Abrasion - The coating has very high adhesion and toughness.
Chemicals - Solvent resistance means the product can be installed with conventional construction adhesives without staining.
UV - Samples have been exposed to accelerated UV exposure tests without any detectable change.
Glass coated with Vitrocoat is ideal for use in areas too challenging for other materials. “Vitrocoated” glass has been rigorously tested to international standards of performance*.
Applications.
Showers, Kitchen backsplashes and worktops. All these can be clad with glass of your choice of colour, eliminating the hard to clean grouted areas associated with ceramic tiles.
Wall cladding & Ceiling panels – Large panels can be created using textured or plain surfaced glass. Virtually any glass can be used – laminated, tempered, annealed curved etc.
Flooring - Used with a waterproof and impact resistant bonding material e.g Betoglass®, Vitrocoated glass can be safely used for flooring applications, even custom made fountains, sinks etc.
Furniture - Glass is a practical surface for cleaning and easy maintenance. Furniture panels from Vitrocoated glass are ideal for many applications.
Vitrocoated glass can be cut, drilled and edged without chipping of the coating. This makes even on-site cutting a possibility for difficult cladding projects. Vitrocoated glass can be bonded to most substrates with commonly available building adhesives, without fear of later unsightly damage from solvent attack.
*ASTM test results from internationally reputed laboratories are available on request.
Should you require any more information on the product please do not hesitate to contact me on the below contact details.
Kind regards,
Shireen Jones
email : [email protected]
tel : +971503469516
website : www.vitrocoat.com