I pretty much only work with steel and cmu buildings, this wood stuff is new to me.
1. Why are the Simpson PF26Z joist hangers only 5 1/4" deep when the 2X6 lumber they are designed for are 5 1/2" deep?
All my joists are 1/4" above the ledger board. I noticed afterwards that homedepot.com is filled with complaints on this subject.
2. If cuts in treated lumber are required to be preservative treated per code, why do I have to special order the preservative instead of getting it up along with everything else? I assume that no one is following the aspect of the code?
Thanks!
SneakyPete
Jul 8, 21 11:54 am
They'll ride down with wear, sir.
Wood Guy
Jul 8, 21 12:19 pm
I typically drop my ledger 1/2" below the joists to allow for drainage. Why are you using top-flange hangers? I only use them when necessary, as the top flange causes squeaks and floor humps.
Everyday Architect
Jul 8, 21 12:31 pm
I agree with WG on the joist hangers. Top flange hangers were always annoying when I had to use them. Face mounted were always better for aligning properly. https://www.strongtie.com/face...
On treating cut ends, it was never something we did when I was framing houses, and I don't think I've ever really seen anyone do it. That being said, I've now seen plenty of treated fence posts and things that have rotted from the inside out through a cut end. So it's probably worth the extra effort. Curious what others have to say on it too.
Wood Guy
Jul 8, 21 12:45 pm
I missed the question about sealing the ends. I did it once, in 1995, at the builder's request, and on a few projects I did after that. I haven't seen anyone do it for at least 20 years. But it's still a good idea--the preservative doesn't go in very deeply.
It is a good idea to run strips of Vycor or similar on top of the joists.
proto
Jul 8, 21 1:45 pm
agree...i've never seen it in the field, but did it on my own property
t a z
Jul 8, 21 2:42 pm
How deep does pressure treatment penetrate the surface? On a 2x I imagine most of the depth of the board would be penetrated. On a 4x4 post in the ground I'd think that would be the cut to be concerned about due to environment and square proportions.
,,,,
Jul 8, 21 3:03 pm
Retention varies with depth in the wood, so preservative penetration also affects wood longevity. In species with large amounts of sapwood, such as southern and red pine, the preservative must penetrate 2.5 inches or 85% of the sapwood to meet standards. From google
proto
Jul 8, 21 3:50 pm
cut ends suck it up pretty well
let them sit & hit them again w/ more
shellarchitect
Jul 8, 21 12:59 pm
I figured the top flange would be slightly easier to install and maybe a little stronger than the face hangers. Didn't expect the height issue.
Having the joists lower would be better, as my self adhered flashing now has little puddles where the joists are above the ledger. This area is covered by my roof overhang so I don't expect much water either way. No problem on the other side as the joists cantilever out a bit.
Wood Guy
Jul 8, 21 2:08 pm
Pressure treated lumber tends to shrink a lot so maybe it will work out for you ;-)
shellarchitect
Jul 8, 21 2:20 pm
I'll let you know if a year or so. This is going to become a rental property so I really wanted the deck to be bulletproof
I pretty much only work with steel and cmu buildings, this wood stuff is new to me.
1. Why are the Simpson PF26Z joist hangers only 5 1/4" deep when the 2X6 lumber they are designed for are 5 1/2" deep?
All my joists are 1/4" above the ledger board. I noticed afterwards that homedepot.com is filled with complaints on this subject.
2. If cuts in treated lumber are required to be preservative treated per code, why do I have to special order the preservative instead of getting it up along with everything else? I assume that no one is following the aspect of the code?
Thanks!
They'll ride down with wear, sir.
I typically drop my ledger 1/2" below the joists to allow for drainage. Why are you using top-flange hangers? I only use them when necessary, as the top flange causes squeaks and floor humps.
I agree with WG on the joist hangers. Top flange hangers were always annoying when I had to use them. Face mounted were always better for aligning properly. https://www.strongtie.com/face...
On treating cut ends, it was never something we did when I was framing houses, and I don't think I've ever really seen anyone do it. That being said, I've now seen plenty of treated fence posts and things that have rotted from the inside out through a cut end. So it's probably worth the extra effort. Curious what others have to say on it too.
I missed the question about sealing the ends. I did it once, in 1995, at the builder's request, and on a few projects I did after that. I haven't seen anyone do it for at least 20 years. But it's still a good idea--the preservative doesn't go in very deeply.
It is a good idea to run strips of Vycor or similar on top of the joists.
agree...i've never seen it in the field, but did it on my own property
How deep does pressure treatment penetrate the surface? On a 2x I imagine most of the depth of the board would be penetrated. On a 4x4 post in the ground I'd think that would be the cut to be concerned about due to environment and square proportions.
Retention varies with depth in the wood, so preservative penetration also affects wood longevity. In species with large amounts of sapwood, such as southern and red pine, the preservative must penetrate 2.5 inches or 85% of the sapwood to meet standards. From google
cut ends suck it up pretty well
let them sit & hit them again w/ more
I figured the top flange would be slightly easier to install and maybe a little stronger than the face hangers. Didn't expect the height issue.
Having the joists lower would be better, as my self adhered flashing now has little puddles where the joists are above the ledger. This area is covered by my roof overhang so I don't expect much water either way. No problem on the other side as the joists cantilever out a bit.
Pressure treated lumber tends to shrink a lot so maybe it will work out for you ;-)
I'll let you know if a year or so. This is going to become a rental property so I really wanted the deck to be bulletproof