When in Italy another wonderful way to see the city other than its architecture is to eat your way thru it, mangia tutto, eat all you can.

I was partial to gelato and fish, however not in that order. I’m generally not a fan of advertising places to go on blogs (unless I’m getting paid to do so ;P) but for Venice I will put my issues aside to help out the many that flock every year for one of the Biennales. 

Here are a list of my favorite places that I visited and a few tricks, tips, and anecdotes to accompany them.

La Mela Verde

Not only a gelato haven but a true innovator in the world of consuming it. Specializing in what is called the “concreppe” a supremely heavenly combination of gelato, nutella, and warmth. The second you look at it you gain 5 lbs and honestly I indulged in everything I could get my hands on. You walk so much around Venice that you shouldn’t even try to limit yourself from anything because of weight gain, it practically melts off your body like this exquisite gelato combo.

Mascarone

The interior of this place is wonderful, a recommendation from our electrician at the US Pavilion. When you walk in you are greeted by a friendly tall man, Giuseppe, who later comes into play a pivotal role in our culinary adventure. We sit down and order a bottle of prosecco. I love prosecco, I did have a fear that I would get sick of it in Italy but I am extremely addicted to carbonation and there is something about the crisp tartness of an Italian wine that keeps me hooked. Later Kristen and I receive the mixed seafood and vegetable plate which held some of the best clams, mussels, and cod that I have had since arriving to Venice. We ate at a variety of super fancy restaurants in Venice but this one takes the cake for having the freshest fish variety accompanied with the best selection of vegetables. Afterwards, we ordered the linguine con scampi (for two) which we couldn’t even finish and sheepishly passed away (even though we totally wanted to take it to go). When at any restaurant Kristen becomes the best at making friends. We strike up a conversation with Giuseppe who later brings us cake, cookies, port wine, limoncello, and espresso to end the meal. He was the extra friendly type that your mother tells you to watch out for, in the end he was incredibly harmless and fun! A character that made our meal very sweet.

Suso

Oh man, this place. Best gelato. Go now! I’m still dreaming about this place. They did have a funny flavor.

Local Ristorante

This is the place you go if you’re feeling fancy or have money to burn. After the Peggy Guggenheim party I was invited to attend a late dinner with DJ Blake Baxter, Demetri a notorious space-maker in Berlin, and some of the faculty who worked on the US Pavilion. The Guggenheim party was incredible, yet short lived. Just as Blake was dropping some acid trax we were asked to leave promptly at 9 pm and the party started at 7 pm. The staff was not interested in having people linger and kicked everyone out, regardless of their “stararchitect status”, Preston Scott Cohen was being shoved out right alongside me. Equals at last! Once exiting the Guggenheim we missed our initial water taxi from the front entrance of the Guggenheim and so there we were, Kristen, Mark (works for MOS), and myself. We were walking along the canal and I was wearing stilettos in Venice, which was its own obstacle. My feet were killing me and we could not find the water taxi designated pick up stop, so what did I do? Like an American I hailed a water taxi off the pier, waving my hand back and forth shouting “senorrraay” across the canal. A man pulls up and we get in, Kristen finds herself in the driver's seat while Mark and I dance in the back standing on the seats, wind in our hair, the night sky above us, going pretty fast (thanks Kristen). I love the water taxis, they're a bit expensive but totally worth it.

Finally we arrive at Local and it was fabulous. We were served a five course meal, known as the tasting menu, the pace was perfect. Our first dish was my favorite, it was a cracker of sorts with a sardine and peanut butter in between. Literally, the first and only time I have ever encountered my favorite savory spread on anything. It was fantastic. The second to last dish was also incredible, small but powerful. A scoop of elderflower sorbet and candied celery. I have never had anything so refreshing in my life. It was like having water for the first time after being stranded on a desert island. Extremely gratifying.

In any event, just ask around instead of searching online, make an afternoon of it and experience what you can within the moment. Testing out and seeing new ways to view the world through food is just one of the wonderful opportunities this magical city has to offer, Venice- the city of love(ly food).