For lack of a better term... I'm looking to do a "woven tile" floor. Like this image:
Only with tile instead of brick. I'm having trouble figuring out the detail to make the wood and the tile the same level. I have not done this type of floor before. Anyone have some good deatils?
Thank you.
senjohnblutarsky
Apr 25, 17 10:43 am
Select your tile backer thickness. Know your tile thickness. Tell them to set it so they align. Grout makes up the difference.
JLC-1
Apr 25, 17 11:46 am
use tiles for everything, like these
SneakyPete
Apr 25, 17 12:24 pm
Minor note: It's called herringbone.
x-jla
Apr 25, 17 1:39 pm
Im skepticle about the grout between the wood and tile holding up as the wood expands and contracts...
senjohnblutarsky
Apr 25, 17 1:52 pm
Best thing to do is probably put in a metal edge and some traffic rated sealant between... if you're worried about expansion and contraction.
SRobbins1977
Apr 25, 17 2:08 pm
Not sure why someone called his herringbone. Anyway... anyone have a detail for this?
I'm not confident with the use of grout to make up for the difference. Seems like there could be a more specific method.
senjohnblutarsky
Apr 25, 17 3:07 pm
... Ima do some mafs for you. 7/16" thick tile + 1/4" Backer Board+3/16 thinset = .875". If you are using 4/4 boards, then your tile is a bit taller. If you're using 5/4 boards, your tile is a bit shorter. Or, you can do medium set mortar and align with the top of the 5/4 board. Or, if you just can't bring yourself to do any of this, there are slightly thicker backer boards, in the 0.42" range, that would put you just over the height of a 5/4 board.
wurdan freo
Apr 25, 17 9:57 pm
Wreaks of diy homeowner... draw your own fuckin detail mr one post if you know there is a specific way to do it... here's a more specific way... cut 1/8" slices of cheese to shim and if you need something more subtle add mayo. BTW why would you call it woven tile when it's clearly herringbone...
x-jla
Apr 26, 17 12:41 pm
Because the op doesn't know shit.
Mr_Wiggin
Apr 25, 17 6:57 pm
I would think the process of making up the difference is much the same as how one would detail a sloped floor that goes to a drain. Hint: It's all in the grout...
SneakyPete
Apr 26, 17 11:22 am
I called it herringbone because it's herringbone, not "woven tile". I was helping you with your "lack of a better term".
But hey, keep asking for help and being an ass when help hits you in the face.
SRobbins1977
Apr 27, 17 9:59 am
umm, shocking reactions here. There used to be professionals on this site. What happened?
JLC-1
Apr 27, 17 12:08 pm
professionalism is a two way street, too many first timers come to get an easy fix and free advice without even saying thanks when called out in their ignorance.
SneakyPete
Apr 27, 17 2:01 pm
The reason a professional treats you with respect is because they are being paid to ignore your bad attitude. I'm not being paid.
SRobbins1977
Apr 27, 17 3:30 pm
JLC-1 In what way was my OP not professional?
SneakyPete Bad attitude? What part of my OP was bad attitude?
JLC-1
Apr 27, 17 7:19 pm
you want to solve your design problem or fight over who is more polite? because you don't seem to accept what everybody is telling you here, that is not a good attitude. herringbone, use grout to level, or use tile that looks like wood.
Hey everyone, I have a rather particular fire-fighting water adequate supply issue with the building official. Anyone have a solution I can give the city? I'm too lazy to crack open the code book. It's busy holding down some scrap pieces of paper.
Yippee!
Apr 27, 17 4:19 pm
That's called inlay, peeple.
Wood Guy
Apr 27, 17 5:31 pm
Wood moves with relative humidity, tile and grout don't, so unless you have a good climate-control system or a high tolerance for cracked grout I would not attempt this. You could use a metal edge like Schluter Schiene and/or use sanded caulking where the tile meets wood but either one would ruin the look, in my opinion. Senjohn has it right; you make up the difference in height with backboard and varying thicknesses of thinset mortar (not grout, which is what fills the gaps between tiles). It's not an easy thing to get right.
I was a contractor in my past life and did a bit of tile work, and was a designer/PM at a residential design/build company for a long time, so I have some experience with this kind of thing. And the tile pattern is definitely called herringbone, but that doesn't really relate to what you're asking about, which is a wood inlay. The same condition occurs wherever tile meets wood floors; the design you're looking at just has a lot of it. Be aware that glazed tiles don't have nice edges when cut on the bias so I would recommend a natural material for this kind of thing if possible.
For lack of a better term... I'm looking to do a "woven tile" floor. Like this image:
Only with tile instead of brick. I'm having trouble figuring out the detail to make the wood and the tile the same level. I have not done this type of floor before. Anyone have some good deatils?
Thank you.
Select your tile backer thickness. Know your tile thickness. Tell them to set it so they align. Grout makes up the difference.
use tiles for everything, like these
Minor note: It's called herringbone.
Im skepticle about the grout between the wood and tile holding up as the wood expands and contracts...
Best thing to do is probably put in a metal edge and some traffic rated sealant between... if you're worried about expansion and contraction.
Not sure why someone called his herringbone. Anyway... anyone have a detail for this?
I'm not confident with the use of grout to make up for the difference. Seems like there could be a more specific method.
... Ima do some mafs for you. 7/16" thick tile + 1/4" Backer Board+3/16 thinset = .875". If you are using 4/4 boards, then your tile is a bit taller. If you're using 5/4 boards, your tile is a bit shorter. Or, you can do medium set mortar and align with the top of the 5/4 board. Or, if you just can't bring yourself to do any of this, there are slightly thicker backer boards, in the 0.42" range, that would put you just over the height of a 5/4 board.
Wreaks of diy homeowner... draw your own fuckin detail mr one post if you know there is a specific way to do it... here's a more specific way... cut 1/8" slices of cheese to shim and if you need something more subtle add mayo. BTW why would you call it woven tile when it's clearly herringbone...
Because the op doesn't know shit.
I would think the process of making up the difference is much the same as how one would detail a sloped floor that goes to a drain. Hint: It's all in the grout...
I called it herringbone because it's herringbone, not "woven tile". I was helping you with your "lack of a better term".
http://bfy.tw/BRiR
HOLY SHIT, if you'd have used the info I supplied, you might have found this!
http://portstone.com/Wood%20Inlay%20Brick%20Paver.htm
But hey, keep asking for help and being an ass when help hits you in the face.
umm, shocking reactions here. There used to be professionals on this site. What happened?
professionalism is a two way street, too many first timers come to get an easy fix and free advice without even saying thanks when called out in their ignorance.
The reason a professional treats you with respect is because they are being paid to ignore your bad attitude. I'm not being paid.
JLC-1 In what way was my OP not professional?
SneakyPete Bad attitude? What part of my OP was bad attitude?
you want to solve your design problem or fight over who is more polite? because you don't seem to accept what everybody is telling you here, that is not a good attitude. herringbone, use grout to level, or use tile that looks like wood.
Herringbone http://images.meredith.com/diy/images/2008/12/p_SCM_117_06.jpg
Hey everyone, I have a rather particular fire-fighting water adequate supply issue with the building official. Anyone have a solution I can give the city? I'm too lazy to crack open the code book. It's busy holding down some scrap pieces of paper.
That's called inlay, peeple.
Wood moves with relative humidity, tile and grout don't, so unless you have a good climate-control system or a high tolerance for cracked grout I would not attempt this. You could use a metal edge like Schluter Schiene and/or use sanded caulking where the tile meets wood but either one would ruin the look, in my opinion. Senjohn has it right; you make up the difference in height with backboard and varying thicknesses of thinset mortar (not grout, which is what fills the gaps between tiles). It's not an easy thing to get right.
I was a contractor in my past life and did a bit of tile work, and was a designer/PM at a residential design/build company for a long time, so I have some experience with this kind of thing. And the tile pattern is definitely called herringbone, but that doesn't really relate to what you're asking about, which is a wood inlay. The same condition occurs wherever tile meets wood floors; the design you're looking at just has a lot of it. Be aware that glazed tiles don't have nice edges when cut on the bias so I would recommend a natural material for this kind of thing if possible.